3d Printed Tap Handle | Embedding Nuts Into 3d Printed Tap Handles


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Embedding Nuts Into 3d Printed Tap Handles


Greetings playing enthusiast. My name is. Vikki Salma. And this is Tegel 3d today’s episode, we are going to combine 3d printing comic books and we’re going to talk about using simplify 3d to embed a not into a print to make a working functional tap handle backstory in my area. A new brewery called heroic. Elle Works has opened the owners. The management behind this brewery do not just consider themselves. Brewers, but nerds and so every beer in their line is named after a fully realized hero or supervillain. In fact, when you go and partake and do a tasting, you get a collector’s card that describes the beer as well as the villain that or the superhero, the character that is based on their tasting rooms celebrates all tastes a geekness and nerdness. You see. I saw a starship enterprise model there. The walls are surrounded with fan art. The bar itself is just lined, covered with comic books. Mostly, the men’s restroom is painted like a TARDIS and so all types of geekdom and nerdom or represented in their tasting room, including 3d printing. They contacted me. I believe on a Tuesday and we had tap handles for a taste event that they wanted. Why Friday? I think this is a really good story for 3d printing because you see a lot of marketing out there. You see a lot of buzzwords out there on websites where they’re talking about rapid prototyping, rapid product development and this is what that is to make the tap handle functional. We went ahead and bedded a standard 3/8 inch nut inside the print itself. And this will screw on to the hardware of the cake. And you can pull on it and pour beer so my job. The most part was pretty easy. They actually sent me a sketch of what they wanted and included measure exact measurements. So I didn’t have any hard decision making to make really, is it? Only a new usual thing to this model is the hole for the nut and here. This is a great case where we can discuss the orientation of your print and thinking ahead on how it’s going to be laid out on the printer. How it’s going to affect pretty, and that will let me impact your design if I printed it up right then. It’s my slicer myself. I 3d was saying it was going to take four and a half hours if I laid it flat on the bed, then then it was going to take just one hour and 15 minutes, so the other thing was my orientation, The printing in their specifications, they wanted their text to be out 1/8 of an inch. And if I did have, my model upright told overhangs, were not really going to cut it on my maker gear, even with 0.75 millimeter nozzle. I would have needed supports, which we didn’t want to really deal with buddy. So again printing flat. That was the way to go. It’s going to be faster, and it was going to be good for my detailing my text here. We go knowing how. I’m going to Orient to the print. Now I come in. I want to put a hole in place for the nut, and you know, if it was upright, I would just be putting in a little slightly bigger hexagon for my not to fit in because it’s down flat. I can’t do it to think about the process. Think about which is printing rate. There’s going to be a point in time where I need to pause by plant and stick the nut in if might not was exactly a just a slightly bigger hexagon. This that opening is going to close up, and my not itself is going to be wider than that opening and would fit in so what I had to do was make sure that that opening extended up to the width of the nut. So I could go ahead and fit in and then you may note that my hole for the bolt isn’t just a straight cylinder. I went with an octagon and the reason I did that. Is 360 divided by 8 is 45 And what that means is the angle that my printer is going to be dealing with as it’s making those of my my whole. Its 45 degrees, which is well within my printer’s capabilities for overhangs. I use multiple processes and simplify 3d of course. That’s kind of a pain, so let’s talk about this my printing process. I started off in wide and I printed a fair amount of time and pause strategically. Put the nut in like this. Resume the print. It sealed the nut into place and at one point. I did do a color switch so here. The end of the print. I had the print pause again, so I can switch my filament and do that last part, so you would think that I would have just 1 2 3 processes because I had two places that I’ve stopping. That’s not the case I actually have four processes. I run the first two together, and here’s why this is a large print. We were on a crunch time. I also was on a crunch time with my material making sure I had enough red to make this event to make the enough. Tampa, Tampa before the event. If I was just doing one process to where I inserted the nut. It was going to do my top solid layers, and it didn’t really want to waste the time or the material on those extra layers. Well, why not turn top layers off all together? You may ask because they had some top layers, but they did want solid and that that would be the placeholder where my knot was going to be. I didn’t want like not us being on anything. I what am I not resting on solid, solid material, so I had enough support because this is going to be something that’s pulled on and have pressure on it. What I ended up doing was setting up the bottom of my plant into two separate processes that I ran together my first process. I went ahead and set up with three top layers like a normal print that I would do the second process. I went ahead and set up 2-0 top layers. And, of course, when I start that next process, the first thing is going to do is solve the bottom layers. So then I had that nice, solid layer there instead of infill on top of it after that, I run to sixteen point seven five milliliters, and then the nozzle will lift up again and this time I switch over to blue, and then I research the print to do Disney. Can’t wait, all right. I’m going to talk about a little bit of my custom starting and eat scripts. I don’t think they’re going to be anything really spectacular. You hear through the same thing that I’m doing when I insert nears Same thing that I did with the gyro cubes with the different colors when I was inserting them. Basically, my wouldn’t rate before and inserting the nuts After I sign. I suppose first two processes all I do is go into relative mode and I have the nozzle lift up 100 millimeters. Just like they come in. Just you to jump my nuttin. It’s been good to go then. In the startup script of my subsequent processes, all I have to do is set it to absolute mode. Now there is one deviation my final process where I’m switching from the red to blue. I do add in a purchase tutor to the startup script, and that’s just to make sure I have a good flow for my color change and what I’m doing here is achievable. It can be done by other people I. I’m not special over here. I’m not magic as this project is living proof. I did the first 11 tap handles for this brewery and then another maker took over and they’ve done 20 with the nuts inside and the color changes who you can do it too. In fact, the footage that you’re seeing of the actual tap handles point pouring here that that was the other printer. That’s not me! Well, thank you guys for watching. If you want to know more about heroic. L works you could go to their website at. Uofl works calm. I’ll put the link down below. If you have any questions or comments or you need help. Tweaking g-hol’d, let me know. I’m at CGA W on Twitter. You can comment down below here on Youtube, and I’m at wwwattcom/biz. I hope you have a great day.

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