3d Printed Nerf Stock | 3d Printable Nerf Skeleton Stock [free Download]


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3d Printable Nerf Skeleton Stock [free Download]


Hey, guys, what’s up him today? We’re going to over a quick project that I just finished up. It’s a 3d printable stock that is held together with four machine screws. It’s pretty simple, extremely sturdy and should be available to print both time. This video is posted. Quick sidenote. It doesn’t really fit into this video, however. I just got a bunch of stickers printed. This is obviously on one sheet. Still got to cut them up for EndWar. So if you see me yet, andwe’re feel free to come up. Grab some stickers. I got a few hundred printed, so I should have plenty for everyone, but if you want to get your very own our Mod 74 sticker. Come, grab it and work. So as I’m sure you can guess. This is sort of modeled. After a worker stock, however, that is sort of ripped off from the Nerf lightning lightning storm strike. I forget the exact name is but anyway. This is pretty much the same as those two, however. I made some slight differences. This one actually, as you can kind of see, this one doesn’t go out and tell bit further. And then it’s hard to tell because I’ve played over it, but the whole or skeleton section as I’ve been. Calling it for the worker. One is a lot smaller, maybe about there or so, and then the stock doesn’t start the ankle until a bit further back. However, I made a few who a lot of slight changes just make it look a bit better in my opinion, But other than that the dimensions are pretty identical, so the main goal behind this was really just to make a pretty simple and clean stock. That would be pretty easy to print it. It comes in two pieces, so it’s extremely sturdy and right now only needs four machine screws so extremely simple to put together. The hold on the stock is pretty tight as you can see. Takes quite a bit of force to the roof, which is good. That’s kind of how. I like it also as a side note. This is designed right now to fit pretty much any of the electronic blasters that Nerf has to offer. It won’t fit on the like spring ones like the EI t or the retaliate. Er, which because they have a little extra piece that sticks off the back, so right now? This is not designed for that, Just because I want the skeleton section to be fairly large, So I didn’t put a hole through that because I thought it would look weird, but if there’s a big interest for a Springer version. I guess I could do that as well so assembly for. This is super simple like I mentioned. You’re going to need. Four 632 machine screws, Two of them are 3/4 inch length and two of them are inch and a half lengths and then four of the nuts that go with those then. Obviously you need to print out the two parts. I printed these up on my Cr 10s now. Obviously it needs a little bit of support in the back. Square area, which is kind of difficult to see, because it’s all one color. However, that’s really the only area that you need support. You’re gonna get a little bit of a strange texture on the surface as you can kind of see here. That’s just sort of a effect from half the layer blaring works where your the layer ends. You’re gonna get a little bit of a edge, however. I think it looks kind of neat, and there’s sort of no way to get around that being that you can’t iron a slanted surface. Oh, like you can with a flat surface. Kirra. But if you really wanted to, you can save this down and then paint it or use a finishing product like XTC 3d or something of that nature to sort of mitigate that, but anyway to assemble the stock, what I would recommend doing is just take the two sides blending them up. You’re gonna drop you or 6:32 Machine screws. That’s on this side where the slots are for them. And then on this side, you’re gonna pull the bolts through. I don’t recommend tightening it all the way right away. Oh, how are you doing? – probably want to slide it onto your blaster and then tighten it because the thing can be pretty fit, especially if your blasters painted, you don’t want to be scratching up all paint on the stock attachment point, so I’d recommend putting the screws in and then attaching it well, clearly and then tightening the screws. So I pretty much done exactly what I’ve said, so it’s still kind of loose on the fit, so I can slip it on without any issue, and then now I should be able to tighten the screws down, and it’ll be fairly difficult to remove. However, you could still pull it off if you wanted to. I wouldn’t recommend doing that a lot as it could scratch up the stock. That’s my point over time, especially if it’s painted, not so much in stock form, but on the companion plaster like this. I wouldn’t recommend pulling it on and off. I’d recommend loosening the screws and then doing that just to go over some of the design iterations real quick because some people might be interested. This was the first one it was done on my one house, so I had to glue the pieces together. However, as you can tell, is very bulky compared to some of these other ones, so the. I like the profile that I got with my design for the first one, and when I tested it, however, way too bulky. So I decided to add a taper to it as you can see with these other two, it goes sort of down to a thinner section where the stock would actually meet your shoulder, so it’s much more comfortable, then with this second one. I just got the CR 10 so they’re significant layering, and I decided to switch the bed for my later prints. However, the issue with this is what was really. I just didn’t like how the nuts proceeded in with the curve, so I decided to make some slight tweaks to that, But this third option, which is the third and final model that actually got produced. There were some other ones that entail the computer, but it isn’t like how they turned out. So this is sort of the final product that you end up with just a pretty simple and clean stock and as mentioned previously. I’m uploading this so that people could download it. I’m not gonna be selling it so unfortunately, if you don’t have a printer. I can’t really help you nor do. I really condone the selling of this product as it’s just a I really don’t want people selling, cuz It’s by design and B. It’s not really practical to sell because it takes, like 18 hours or so to print both science, and then when you factor in, you know, obviously, material cost is cheaper than a worker stock, but you never really be able to sell it for cheaper than a work your stock, and if you’re buying something. I’d rather pay less and get a nicer product. Ie jet remoulded or something like that over a 3d printed surface. But if you own a 3d printer, have a friend or have access to one, they’re becoming a lot more common now, especially larger ones. So you can just spread this out and save yourself some money and before if you prefer to look this over the worker’s dock. I just go for it anyway. Guys, that’s gonna be it for this video. Kind of short one, but I just really wanted to go over the basics of this dock and then let people know that it was available. So if you would like to, you can go download that now and test it out for yourself. Feel free to give me any feedback – on the design. This is really the first off or one of the first parts that I’ve designed of this size. So if you have any feedback, you know, always appreciated or if you want to see something like a springer compatible one. I want to do battery stock version similar to what I’ve done on some of my other longshots, stripes and other projects. So that’s sort of in the pipeline, however, not really rushed sort of a backbreaker project for me, right so as always guys. Thank you for watching. I hope you enjoyed now. We’ll see you in another video.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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