Hey, what’s up? Nerdgasm fans carrying your a cave article. Yes, and today we’re going to print a gun, but not just any gun. The Halo mag now. I said what you looking at? Punk, alright, guys! I have the model open here in Korea. Thirteen point twelve, and it’s actually the Halo. Magnum is a single pistol like this is just printed as one single piece. I went ahead and flipped the pistol upside down and courage just to make it easier to print, and I added a brim in a raft. So if you go over here, you say, I want to see the layers you can see. It builds out each of the layers of the pistol and you can see how it’s going to be printed. You break down to its furthest level, so it’s basically going to create a brim layer, then print the entire pistol in any place. There’s an overhang, it’s going to actually print support material. Alright, so just to give you an example here. I have a cube that I printed using color fab. XT, which is a wonderful material. And you can see that there’s a huge overhang here. Well, obviously, I can’t just print material out in open space because gravity pulls it down because it comes out in a molten state, so what it’s going to do? Is it’s going to print a lattice structure using a minimal amount of material to basically create like scaffolding to hold the materials? That’s printing it up here now, in this particular example here. I didn’t use any support material. You can see, there’s all kinds of like little Droopys and stuff under here. It actually did a remarkable job considering the size of this key about which they call it bridging when you can go between two points like that over over there, and I’m very, very satisfied with how the material works, but using that support material can really make the difference between a good print and a great print so again, the material that we’re using this time is going to be color. Fab X T now! The cool thing about this material is standard. PLA has a maximum melting temperature of about 230 C. The problem with that is the material tends to stay very liquid all the way down to about 190 so it takes longer to cool and solidify, and during that time, the material can shift and move, which can affect your print quality. This you can print all the way up to 260 C very, very high temperature, and I think the low points about to or TV you want to pronounce? Oh, actually, about 220 so they list 220 to 240 But actually, I was printing it 260 and I was getting a pretty good result. The nice thing about that is because it has a higher melting point. It cools down that much faster when it’s printing, which, for things like bridging and stuff like that is an absolute necessity. This is cool material, alright? I transferred this model Overton, SD card. So let’s take it over to the Ultimaker 2 and print it out. Alright, so here. We have the completed halo. Magnum pistol. All I’ve done is I’ve removed the support material. When you noticed when it printed on the printer, there was a lot of like material built up and all the little crevices around here in on the bottom, and you can see where this is really rough, you know? I’m gonna have to hit that with a file or some sandpaper to get it smooth, because when you remove the support material, of course, it’s molten plastic, you know, touching plastic, so when you tear it off, you tend to get a little bit of a rough spot, but the cool thing about this. XT material. Is it files and sands really nicely, so all it’s going to take us a bit of sandpaper and some files to clean all that up and make it look nice now, one thing. I did notice when I printed. This was that a lot of this roughness could have been avoided just by turning the temperature down a little. I think I was printing It too high of a temperature and it was causing the support material to bond just a little bit too good with the base material, but you can look at the inlays here where there was no support material. It’s very, very sharp. The lines are very, very crisp. The detail where it needs to be like on the fins in the side here. This all looks absolutely beautiful so to be honest. I probably should have printed this without any support material and it would have turned out better, but I’m still very, very happy with the results. This is my very first print, using color, FAB XT, white material and it performs really well and it prints at high temperature And as I play with it. I’m going to mess with the retraction settings on the play around the temperatures on the printer and just like with anything else 3d printing. You have to play with the printer to get the material to print just perfectly, but once you get, the settings dialed in and you got them written down printing about anything in that material is a dream, Alright? We’ve established that the Halo Magnum pistol when you print it as a single piece from the model, it feels a little bit small. You can see my hand here. I can only get about three fingers in the trigger guard, and it looks like it was intentionally created small so that you could print it as a single piece on the printer. It’s not really to scale. So what we’re going to do now is we’re going to take the gun broken up into multiple parts, so this was included with the model package. You can get the link in the description. Um, and this is all individual parts, so here’s all the parts to build the handle for the pistol and this for people that are trying to print this out on printers that have lesser build volume. So what you do is you can print these out and then cut them out and glue them together and make larger versions of what you normally couldn’t print as a single piece, but there’s huge advantages to this one is. If you look at some of the pieces here, you can change the orientation of the pieces so that they print with the cleanest possible outcome. Because you don’t want a lot of overhangs. So if you can print this stuff where it doesn’t have a lot of overhangs, let’s switch over to my layer view. Here, you actually get a much cleaner print, and then when you glue the parts together, you have better seams, better angles and it doesn’t look so chewed up where you have to remove all the support materials. So what we’re going to do now is we’re going to go ahead and print these two with zero support because this we had to remove a bunch of support material and then print these with zero support. And then we’re going to cut them out and glue them together, but then just to make it a little bit bigger because I want to fit my hand. I’m scaling it up by 25% which I’ve already done on both of these models. Easy to do in Curry. You set you change one setting you basically say. I want to increase it. By 0.25 percent. Boom, it’s going to be bigger, so let’s go ahead and get this printed out and then we’ll assemble it and well. Compare the two you you all right so here. We have the prints fresh off the printer, and this is the 25% larger scaled up version of the Halo Magnum. So now we have to do is break the parts out of the sheet now. This model came with the sheet intact, but you can also print stuff like this by actually telling the printer to add a brim to it, but they just went ahead and incorporated into the model. So I’m gonna go ahead and just break all this stuff away. It’s fairly easy to break away. The material is brittle enough, lets. Go ahead and we can clean up the edges later on, so there’s. One piece right there. There’s another piece. I can see here that it does need some cleanup along the bottom edge, it did tend to droop and that’s because I didn’t print with any support, so it did get a little bit frayed up, but I can clean that up. Okay, have roughly broken out all the pieces. So now we’re going to go ahead and clean them up using a pen knife. This is my cool. Little master grip tool set that. I picked up from Costco That has a series of pen knives and blades and just really nice tools for carving and whittling and I find for throw any printed stuff and cleaning up support material. This is actually an ideal set to have all right, so at this point. We have all the parts cleaned up. I went ahead and filed them a little bit and cut the edges down. So now they’re pretty clean for the most part. So now we’re just going to use some hot glue to put it all together now. I may want to use something more permanent, like epoxy or melt them together in the future, but in case I want to take it apart again and meso that are cleaned up warms using hot glue because it’s more temporary. So let’s go ahead and start out with a grip here. Let’s go ahead, just put a little little glue down here on the bottom, just like so, and then what we’re going to do is we’re going to pick up the bottom piece here and we’re going to put in the actual grip holder, just like that, go ahead and pin those together. Okay, so now let’s go ahead and assemble the slide, which let’s see here goes like this, and that goes like that. See, is that right that looks about right, and then this goes on the front? I just want to lay it out in my head here. So we get it right, all right. I think we’re good. I can double check it against the smaller version, too. Just to make sure it’s correct. That does actually look correct, so lets. Go ahead and glue that together and you can see it’s already. The models already notched. It has some little joints here, so we’ll just go ahead and fill those in with glue just like so again. There’s a another little notch it’s. Good, fill that little compartment with glue. I love hot glue. You just stuff for everything. Temporary assembly use it for like. I glue my network. Routers and stuff to the underside of my desk works really, really well. All right, so there. We have the slide glued together. So now we want to put the grip on it. Put a little hot glue. There got a little hot glue. Okay, piece that right there. Get push really hard. Hot glue sets up pretty quick, too. It’s another cool property about sitting, see, it’s starting to come together so now we want to put this on the front big misconception with 3d printers that you can only print what the build volume of the printer will let you print. That’s actually not true. You could print out a full skux the full-size car. If you wanted to, you just have to glue it together, a piece at a time and they make cool software like. I have a piece software called Netfabb. You guys can check it out. All the link in the description and netfabb is a very, very easy program that allows you to take really large models and slice them into manageable parts that you can then print and glue back together and it works really. Well, now you can see there. The gun’s starting to shape up. It’s actually very, very large, comfortable to hold. This is definitely more realistic size. I might have even gone just a little bit too big on it, but it’s an awesome gun. I don’t care if it’s too big. So now that we got that piece done, let’s go ahead and set that down for a second now. I want to check my slide. The glue set up on the slide, so we’re good there, so let’s go ahead and glue the slide on. This thing is huge! I didn’t expect it honestly to be this big, and it looks like the front piece here. It looks like there was a pin to hold those two pieces together, but I forgot to cut it out, but we’re just going to glue it because we know we don’t need the pin since we’re just gluing everything getting glue happy here. Alright, put that on the front. See, that looks correct? Starting, starting to shape up and look like a gun here, people. Gosh, that thing’s huge alright now! The only thing left to do is to put the two screws in the front here. Go ahead and let that dry, so I can clean up the excess glue, but there you have it. The halo Magnum all glued together and just to give you some size comparison. It’s quite a bit bigger. I personally like the larger one now. Now these cracks here all this stuff once the glue dries. If I want to, I can fill all that in with bought. Bondo, like auto body filler, sand, it all down and paint it, and it’ll all look like one piece so and another thing you could do too is once you do that work, and you smooth it out and you take your time finishing everything. Then you can actually plaster cast it and make other ones and just pour you actually pour as many as you want just out of actual plastic and make them solid. If you want, it’s really cool stuff. Well, there, you guys have it. The 12.7 millimeter automatic halo Magnum pistol. Now this is the small one. This was printed 100% of the model that I noticed when I printed is a little bit, You know, small for my hand. But this was printed as one piece with support as you saw earlier in the video and it turned out pretty good. There’s some rough spots on top, where the support material contacted and didn’t tear away cleanly, but again with 3d printing. It’s all about tweaking and like finding the right settings for your environment, temperature, humidity, Everything if I play around with the retraction settings and the temperature for this material, I should be able to get it to where the support material cleanly breaks away so now. I’m going to experiment with that. This is my first print using XT, and I’m actually really happy with the results that I got for my first time printing with a brand new material that uses a different temperature range. Both of these were printed on the Ultimaker v2 printer, which is a phenomenal printer. I also have it all to maker v1 which does a really good job, but having a heated bed is fantastic. When you’re dealing with materials like this, it just makes them adhere better and it prevents warping, so since this didn’t fit my hand very well, we went ahead and parted out this piece, which the link is in the description to both models, the one the full-size one, That’s just a single piece and the one that’s multiple piece you can see. We have one two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, Ten, Eleven pieces here that are all hot glued together all. I did was clean up the edges to take off the brim material and cleaned up a little bit. You can see this is 125 percent scale. That is a big pistol that fits my hand. All my fingers fit comfortably in the grip and that’s way more realistic as far as size is concerned. Um, so this is the one that I would actually use. It looks like they just scaled the model down, mainly. Uh, to just just make it. You know, easier to print on a smaller printer with a smaller build volume, but again that is just too cool now. The neat thing is because you can glue the parts together. You can even go bigger. I mean, actually, I’m thinking after doing this. I love how this turned out, so I want to print a full size like an energy rifle or whatever the hell. It’s called the halo assault rifle. I want to print that next because I think that would be cool to make something that’s large and like I was saying earlier. If you want to finish the model to like showroom quality, once you’re done, printing it again, a lot of these rough patches and stuff like this could be avoided just by playing around the temperature and finding the exact right settings again. This is color fab! XT material. It’s a new material that I’m beta testing, and so I got to find those proper settings to get it to work perfect, but right now, as it sits the bridging on it’s phenomenal. I mean, the fact that it can actually bridge across the gap that big with minimal sag. That’s that’s mind-blowing to me because use of a PLA. It would just be like I mean, it would just be a loop, so I’m really happy with the material. It cuts very easy it actually. Wiggles a lot like wood The way that the material comes away, which PLA doesn’t really widdle that well, and it’s very, very sandable, so it’s a very workable material for making things, but once you’re done, fill in all the cracks with Bondo. Finish it up, sand. It prime, it get in there. Do all that detail work and I’m probably going to do that with this with my friend. Rob, from the 501st Legion will clean this up and then make it a castable once it’s all clean and smooth. Then we can cast that make a mold pour as many of them as we want for pennies on the dollar, very quickly paint them up, and they’ll be awesome, so guys. I hope you enjoyed this. This was a lot of fun for me. It was cool to be able to print like a couple of the same thing and the halo. Theme is really big right now as you guys know. I’m also working on a halo helmet, a full size Master Chief helmet from Halo 4 in that helmet. Right, now it’s done. I’ve already printed. I think was twenty four pieces. I had to print assemble and right now. My friend Rob has that, and he’s doing all the bondo work and and cleaning it all up so that we can actually do a mold in print latex versions of them. It’s gonna be really, really cool, guys, so keep an eye out for that video. So guys hope this gave you a nerdgasm until next time surprise [ __ ]! I really hope you enjoyed this video. If you did please like favorite and subscribe, it helps me A bunch also. Come follow me on Facebook and Twitter. I love interacting with you guys.