Hello, and welcome to another modeling video. This is Allen from Nima Conner man at Youtube with a another 3d printing video. We haven’t done one of these for a while and as you’ve all seen. I’ve been doing quite a few bits and pieces on my gunplay. Builders, World Cup entry link to the playlist down below I’ve printed off Catid designed, polished and cast a few parts on this project to the point, where I’m able to airbrush metallics and create a almost mirror esque finish all using the very cheap upper mini airbrush that at my disposal. It all started with the purchase of the 1/100 master grade chabela kit, this reference picture of the mass production version and a little bit of drawing and measuring with some digital calipers of the part and what? I need to produce with the Sketchup that I’ve drawn on paper. Everything was I loaded up on Autocad. I have access to this too to work. The programs such as Sketchup or my personal favorites, Tinkercad would be able to do the same thing. This is the drawing in wire mesh mode where you can see the internals and outside. You can see that the existing part of the foot extrudes into the square hole and the round hole, which measures about two by ten radius, fits a rare-earth magnet, So it just snaps together perfectly. This was transferred to the 3d printing bed software and printed with our limited success. The model was printed with ABS PC on a medium setting as fine as decision Nozzle can humanly go. Everything was out done on a raft and built up from there. The nozzle did run a bit hot, which helps world the parts together and leaves less of the z-axi’s line. It did leave. Some scorch marks big problem that the very tip. I did come out pretty up. Sadly, this is the limitation of extrusion printing, especially on the cheaper printer. Not too bad, not good enough to sand in paint but out with the current method. I’ve been mixing it Milli putt, Two-part epoxy putty and thinly smoothing it all over the surface. The point was Reese Culp, turd and cotton sanded back, using a series of knives, files and sandpaper Sols besides a hobby knife and the sand file to get a flat edge, the range of sandpaper and most importantly, started off very, very coarse. This was either forty to sixty. I was able to remove a lot of material rapidly and cut back to the plastic, where all the extrusion lines was hidden behind the very, very hard putty. A hard putty is better to apply than a soft or liquid party as the course of sandpaper. It would shred that up all the way down to the base surface, and you’re back to the same fault or texture. You started with this way. It came out significantly smoother and then I was able to work my way to one hundred Twenty to fifty four hundred, a thousand and two thousand grit, sandpaper to a very, very smooth finish, more softer paddies, such as squadron to me. A basic type or liquid paddies were applied Primes with a very thick primer and then sanded back until we got it as smooth as we can tolerate it at this stage. I need to have multiple copies and to print out cover and putty and sand back is extremely time-consuming and with the putty, it’s very, very fragile. I decided to cast it in resin and use two resin the copies and just put up with any imperfections and air bubbles, and what not the problem of the plastic is being quite weak on the years and access to have a tendency of our splitting, moving and changing with our temperature. Resin is a lot more easier. So what happened was? I used a very quick method of using a cup. I made a mold by placing the part in it. Adding a bit of a sprue filled it up with latex lubricated it more latex removed the model and that cast a putty resin. Sorry, this method will be explained in a future video. There is a lot of tutorials on resin casting out there once. I my not-so-perfect castering was removed. This had a process of our being sanded to remove any release Agent, which I put there intentionally. The air bubbles was covered up with putty and then it went back to the process of sanding polishing, using a very thick primer out of a rattle can a mostly Automotive circling What of the last of the imperfections putting that up and incentive again and in sending it further to a higher polish with a higher grit of sandpaper way into these thousands once the structure was ideal, the under detail of the real cube le feet were cut off, glued underneath slightly paid, it up, sanded up and a final coat of primer applied by airbrushed thinly to look at how smooth and ideal the surface, the chamfer and the detail is of the kit. Black high-glos’s lacquer paint was applied. This is the final check to see if the sheen is nicely even and then proceeded to painting this pretty much concludes my current method of utilizing extrusion 3d printing in my modelling and trying to get a part to contour to an established polished injection molded model kit. The idea is to look at it, not be able to tell what scratch built. What sculpted what’s original kit? And what’s our 3d printed? I blend it all together and by doing this for a couple of years. I think I’ve improved my skills a bit and as well as refined, a method that gets rid of those faults pretty much, the only thing that’s different in this method, besides a wider range of our sanding papers and using a hard putty at the very, very start, it’s at the same process. It is very tedious. It takes a very long time, but if the shape is that unique, and then you detail it further, it can be quite rewarding if you’re willing to go to that much work. Thank you very much for watching. As always until next time stay tuned for further content have a look at Facebook for regular up-to-date work-in-progress pics of whatever I’m doing references and another place where my videos are sent to always have a look at the description section got some interesting references, other links to other things that I do if you leave any sort of comments on any of my social media in the form of a question, I’m very happy to hear you out or address you, and that’s about it. Catch you guys next time.