Howdy there, folks. I’m Quinn of snazzy labs and today I am building a pie girl. -, which is a little handheld gameboy sized emulator, which can emulate pretty much every console from the 1970s clear up to the Playstation. One, it’s pretty amazing, so before we get into building the pie girl -. I want to explain this new video series that we’re doing most of you that watch The Channel know that we publish professional tech reviews and professional tutorials and don’t worry those aren’t going anywhere, but we wanted to add a third element where we can have a slightly less professional, non scripted video format. Where you guys could see us build stuff and then get inspired to build stuff on your own and follow the guides that we post and also, you know, a lot of times, we’ll be following guides that already exist like today today. We are building the pie girl. – now, pie girl – is based off of a raspberry pie to emulation. The raspberry Pi. – is a $35 computer, It’s really amazing because it’s a quad core 900 megahertz processor with one gigabyte of RAM, so it’s well powerful enough to emulate dozens and dozens and dozens of consoles clear from the 1970s – like I said the Playstation 1 era. So not only, can you emulate PS1, but you can emulate NES Super Nintendo. You can emulate the Game Boy, Game, Boy, Color Game, Boy. Advance turbo graphics, commodore 64 Commodore 128 You can emulate at the apple two that are like dozens and dozens and dozens of consoles that can be emulated even once that I’ve never heard of, and so it’s pretty cool to have all of these emulations of decades of gaming in this tiny little handheld form factor. Now there will probably be two parts to this. The second part is where we’ll assemble and solder everything together. This is part one where we’re going to actually print 3d print the enclosure. So this is the. Pi girl, – all of the STL files. Which are the 3d models are available for download from Thingiverse Now. What I don’t like about this? There’s two things first of all the screen isn’t centered, which really really bothers me, and then it’s extremely bland down here. There’s not a lot of stuff going on so. I thought that I could add a Nintendo logo down to the bottom corner of the screen. I guess it’s not totally accurate because it does more than emulate just Nintendo Games, however, that said I probably will be playing mostly Nintendo games on here and who doesn’t love the Nintendo logo. So I figured that would be something good to put on to the model that I have here you can see. I’ve already imported the Nintendo logo. It’s very, very small, so we’ll get it in the right orientation. First, this software, by the way for those that are wondering, is called one two three design. It is free! CAD software from Autodesk, which is the same people who make AutoCAD. And it’s completely free And it’s very, very powerful like I’m obviously it’s not as powerful as the CAD stuff, but it’s well beyond my capability of using this software and it does a really pretty nice job. There are a lot of things that I am sure I’m doing wrong. I don’t know how to use this application very well. I haven’t taken a course on it. Nor have I watched many Youtube tutorials online. I’ve just kind of figured out how to do stuff in my own way, and I’m sure that again it’s probably not the right way, but it works for me, so we’ve got this lined up. That seems to be lined up on all four sides. Maybe we can bring this down slightly. Yeah, there we go okay so. I like this a Nintendo logo placement. Obviously we don’t want it well. I guess we could, but I don’t want it to stick out because my palm will be like in this area. That would be uncomfortable, so I’m going to take this and I’m going to move it down, Probably like as much as we can get it without passing over the edge, so 1.1 1.2 Well, that’s too far so 1.1 3 all right, so now what I’m going to do is I’m going to subtract what I’ve just drug in from the main object, so I go up here and I go to combine subtract. I select the target, so that’s the large piece and then the source, which is this one and then I click off screen and it should there. We go, yeah. That works! Great, okay. So obviously we have a problem. This bore through the whole entire hole on the back. We can’t have that because we need. We need to some support here. Some rigidity, so what? I’m going to do and again. I’m sure this isn’t probably the best way to do it, but I really care. It works for me, so we’ve now covered the Nintendo logo. It’s sufficient for our 3d print and let’s give it a twirl, lets. See what happens so print number One is finished and it has a likeness of a Game Boy, but it was it was a catastrophic failure. I’m going to have to go back and redesign this Nintendo logo, though the rest of the print actually worked out really well. The problem is the logo itself. The spacing is way too close together for the printer to be able to create distinguished lines and so. I think I’m going to have to give this another thought. Let’s go back to the computer and see what we can change. All right, so you can see here on the right. This was our original model again. The spigen was just way too close together, so I decided to invert basically what we did the first time around to be that the letter stick out, so they’ll be the main color, the same color as this faceplate. And then the background will probably be red, which is the same color as the rest of it. I think it’ll turn out pretty well. I’m not completely sure, but I bet that this has a better chance of printing than this version. All right, so the application I’m in right now is called simplify 3d and it’s a slicer. What slicers do is They basically take the 3d model and then convert that image into code for the printer to be able to interpret because the printer just is told, basically directions. Go this way! Go that way and spit out this much plastic at the same time. I mean, they’re very, very simple machines, so slicers interpret the 3d model and then put them into a language that the printer can understand now when we’re setting it up. We have to think about how this thing is going to print. Obviously this is the base. This is how it decides to put it when we dragged the model in, but this is not good because although the top faceplate would look really really nice on, maybe the top layer, we have a whole lot of problems. Because if we look underneath, there’s a bunch of blank space where there’s no plastic at all. And once we try to extrude plastic over, it’ll be fine building these walls on the side, but once we get to the very very top and it has to print out this bottom layer on the top section it since it’s plastic, and it’s dragging from one end to the other, it’s going to droop down and just be a disaster and be a horribly printed model, so what we need to do is rotate this 180 degrees and then re Center it so that if we think of the printer going back and forth and back and forth and back and forth, and I can show you by showing you the final model by line, you can see that it’s going to print from the bottom up continually, and there’s nothing that is going to be overhanging. I guess this little section right here. These two parts overhang slightly, but it’s not enough to be problematic and it looks like the application even generated little automatic supports that are just removable. They just pop right out. So I have the process set up. I’m going to print this in PE T. G, it’s filament that requires a pretty high extrusion temperature and it’s good because it’s very flexible, but it’s also very durable and so it should be a good plastic to print in, and then that is obviously what the final product is going to look like. This is showing exactly what it’s going to do by line, But if I showed you by layer, you can see that the entire project is. How many layers is it 54 layers, so the entire thing, 54 layers, and you can see, it’s basically just going from the bottom from the ground up, and it just does one layer at a time. And there you go, and you can see if we zoom in here, you can see the layers themselves. That’s all 3d printing is is that just heats up plastic? It spits it out of a tiny hole and it stacks it on top of each other. Okay, so I finished the second print and it actually looks really, really, really good. I changed the filament, so it printed out the Nintendo and white just perfectly, and then the red layer was done on top of that. It looks like I bumped the Stepper Motor slightly because the red layer is a tiny bit off from the rest of it, but nothing we couldn’t fix with a little dremel tool in sanding. And this is the section. I just screwed up really bad guys. This sanding pad is fine on this side, but this side is dirty and I printed it in white. So now the whole front of the thing looks like crap well. I blew with the first one. I mean, I’m mad because it looks good, but it wasn’t good enough, so it’s not the end of the world. It still sucks, though. Let’s just try printing another one. Let me get it set up, okay, guys, it’s 3:00 am. I’m really tired. I just need to get out of here. I’ve tried printing time and time and time again with white with black and some setting on the printer is screwed up. I’ve checked everything I can think of the Z offset. The extrusion temperature it just it’s not. It’s not good. It’s screwing up, so I’m going to go home. I’m just going to start. I figured I printed in Inwood. I have this material here. It’s called wood fill. It’s basically the same material as the other kind, but they they literally put sawdust inside of it. And so you get this kind of wooded texture because it’s partially wood. Smells really good the problem. I don’t think I think it’s not very rigid. What it’s going to come down to is. I’m just going to have to order different filaments because these ones are not. They’re just pulling up off the bed, which I haven’t had before, but this print is so big that I just got a thing. I don’t even want to think about it right now. I just want to go home, so I’m going to start this in wood and we’ll come back later and see what it looks like. Hey, guys, probably one of the best nights of sleep. I’ve ever gotten, I was so tired so frustrated, but I’m happy because I came back to the office this morning, and I found that this would print actually turned out really, really good. I still am not sure that I’ll be able to use it because it’s very, very brittle material, but I’ll be darned. If it doesn’t look pretty excellent now. The cool thing about this is that you can sand. It like you sand, real wood. I’m not going to do it with this frickin thing. But you can sand it and get a really really nice finish and then right now. The front is glossy, but I can’t stand this as well to take that off and give it a matte wood and texture on the front anyway. I’m really really happy with the way it turned out. Obviously it’s only one color, So I probably won’t use this, but that’s what I want to ask, you guys. What color combination would you put? Here’s what? I’m thinking I’m thinking Gray on the front and then like a classic Nintendo Grey and then red for the rest of the case. Or maybe depends what you guys think. Red on the front and then gray for the rest of the case. Let me know in the comments below. If you think both of those colors sake, and I should do a totally different color combination. Let me know in the comments below. I will get that stuff ordered. And as long as you guys are interested in seeing part two, I will finish the pie Girl 2 and start playing some sweet emulated games on this little handheld system. Thank you so much for watching. Please let me know what you guys think of the new series. If you think it sucks, let me know. Leave your comments below. If you thought it was great, and you want to see more like it, let me know as well. All options and opinions are completely. Welcome last thing. I do have a new website. Snazzy labscom. It’s designed for you, the viewer. I’ll talk about it more in the next couple of videos, But I just want to let you know, so you can head on over there and check it out. Hey, thanks so much for watching guys and as always stay snazzy. See you later, folks.