3d Printed Furniture Joints | Making Furniture With 3d Printing

Alexandre Chappel

Subscribe Here





Making Furniture With 3d Printing


Hey, guys, today we’re making furniture using super simple materials and some 3d printed parts. Let’s jump right into it and get started building so a little. While ago I made this chair using plywood and round stock and only two tools that being the jigsaw and a drill and the idea was that you can use templates and make this chair yourself with limited tools. You can check out that video up here so today. I want to do something quite similar only instead of cutting out pieces in plywood and then joining these together with some round stock. I’m going to join the round stock together with some 3d printed parts. They’re just going to slide together just like this, so I want to make a little three legged side table that goes next to my chair, and I’ve actually already designed all the pieces necessary to make this table, so I’ve actually already printed a couple of these, and you know what this entire build is only gonna take seven printed parts. I’ve got five of them right here. And the three remaining ones are on the printer Ready to be taken off the build plate. So let’s do that. So these are the three last remaining parts, and I printed them on this Prusa 3d printer. This printer was actually given to me by prusa with some filament in exchange for me using it in one of my videos and then giving it my honest opinion. This particular model is a prusa mark 3s We’ll talk more about this thing in just a second, but let’s first Take the prince off the build play here. This part is super satisfying because it has this flexible build plate. These usually just there we go and they just come right off, so let’s talk a little bit about these parts. First of all, these are printed in Prusa’s own galaxy black filament and they just turn out amazingly. Well, I’m actually really happy with the print result here, so the way all these parts are gonna make a piece of furniture is that all of them have different holes in them at different angles, so it’s all kind of going to go together like Lego with pieces of round stock sliding into the holes and then multiple pieces connecting to form the side table, which you can see with just a couple of these random pieces of round stock can already form something looking like a piece of furniture. Kinda, I mean, sure, right, so before we can start assembling these pieces into a piece of furniture. We need to cut some pieces of round stock to be the right length for this video. Yet again I’m gonna use broomstick, which I’ve also used for a chair and the electric scooter. The only difference is that I recently discovered that my local hardware store sells broomstick in ash for super cheap, so this table is going to be made out of ash round stock. Let’s start by cutting the round stock to the right lengths. I’m going to do that with my Japanese saw here. It doesn’t really matter what you use. You can use a jigsaw, a conventional handsaw. Whatever we’re gonna need a total of six pieces and two different lengths and I’ll make sure to have all the measurements and all the 3d files ready for you to download from the link in the description below. [MUSIC] And with that, we’ve got all our pieces cut. All we need is three long ones and three short ones. And if we want, we can test, assemble these pieces now just to get an idea of what this all is gonna look like once. Everything is put together, so three parts go together like this center piece with these three. And then all these go together like this. Definitely gonna be a bit flimsy now that nothing is screwed together, but you can see doing. This will give us a pretty good idea of what this is gonna look like in the end, but before we start attaching all these parts together permanently. I actually want to make the legs. Look, a little bit nicer. You see right now? The bottom of the leg is just this flat off cut from the saw, and that would mean that it would sit at an angle like this on the ground. But I want to make that look a little bit nicer, so just like we did on the legs for this chair here. I want to make the bottom of the legs of the table also. Have this nice rounded feature at the end now. That is actually super easy to do. I’m gonna use this template here. Which is the same one I use for the chair. This is just a printout template that I glued onto a piece of card stock and then cut out and I’m gonna use it as a guide at the bottom here. Keep sanding the end of the leg until this guide matches perfectly. [MUSIC] Okay, that’s the third and last leg, complete time to drill some holes and then start assembling parts, so all these pieces can be used to right off the 3d printer. There’s no clean up or anything else. You need to do to them before you can turn them into a piece of furniture, so I usually try my best to design parts that don’t require any support structure while printing. What that means is that there can’t be any overhangs that are too big for the machine to be able to print. That overhang is usually 45 degrees That means that none of the overhangs on the part can be bigger than 45 degrees or else they won’t. Turn out as nice. That’s also the same reason why the center piece here is slightly thicker in the center that it’s just so the angle on the side here isn’t as big. I initially printed it like this with straight sides. That means that the overhang here is 60 degrees, which ended in a little bit of a rough surface. Finish, so that’s why I switched to this one. That’s a little thicker to make everything smooth and perfect, so that’s generally how I design parts for 3d printing either. It’s for a drill powered electric scooter or for the 3d printable planter molds, none of the parts for either one of those projects require any support material to be printed, all right, enough, rambling about 3d printed parts. Let’s put these together since I modeled these parts in 3d I know exactly where the hole locations for all. These screw holes need to be. So I’m just going to mark those right now. 50 Now I’m gonna drill the top hole. Then I’ll take the top piece and slide it in place and screw in this group. Yay, first part on so before grilling the second hole, I’ll actually take the bottom part here and slide it in place and then align the hole with the mark. I made and to ensure that both these pieces end up in the same plane. I’m just gonna put them on the table and then push it flat. They are both the same exact thickness, so this will ensure that they end up straight like this. That’s one of the least complete lets. Do this two more times onto the center piece now. This one is super easy because all the parts just go as far as they can go. Drill the holes and screw the screws. And now when we put these parts back together, you can see how much more stable they are already ill. Wait with attaching the rest of parts together until we have the top. So that’s what we’re gonna make now and actually have this really nice piece of 20 ML ash board left over from an old project that I did a kitchen and we’re going to make the top out of this. I’m going to make the top round, and I’ve decided that the diameter is going to be 420 ml, so in order to cut that size circle out of this board, I’m gonna first Mark a little bit more than the radius. Let’s say 22 from either side here and to roughly mark up this circle, I’m gonna hammer in and nail into the center mark and use my ruler hook it onto the nail and sort of loosely draw the the circle. This is definitely not perfect, but it will give me enough of a guide to cut it out on the bandsaw and then I’ll show you a trick to get perfectly round circles on events. All right, so our very rough circle is cut out, but that’s good enough for what we’re going to do now, so I’m going to use a scrap piece of MDF to make a little jig to cut a perfect circle on the bandsaw, and this is how we’re going to do it first. I’ll mark a line that is parallel to the front edge here in this case, I’m just going to go with three centimeters. I’m going to make a mark some random distance in from the side. I’m just going to use the same 30ml and then from that mark, I’ll mark the exact radius of the piece that will cut, which is 21. So now Ill again hammer in and nail into the mark. We made on this side here. Only this one, I’m gonna pull back out. I only want the little hole to be left, and now so that the nail that we have in this board can fit into that hole. I’m gonna cut the head of this one off, and now with any sort of luck. This snail should fit into our hole in this plate here, and now we got a spinny thingy, which is gonna help us make a perfect circle on the bandsaw. So let’s head over there first. We’ll set this guide on the side to be the right distance to the line that we marked up and then we’ll cut along that line until we get to the other lineup. Now after I cut up to that line, I held the piece in place. Shut the machine off and then clamped this block in place this way. I now have a stop guide for the side and for how far in I can go so now I can pull this thing back and attach my piece back into the hole here and we’re ready to cut [Music]. Now that’s what I call a pretty good circle, huh? All right, so I’m pretty happy with our circle. Next step is how we’re going to mount the frame to the top. I made this convenient template for the hole locations for our screws, which has the center marked in it and I’m just going to use the nail that we still got in the board to punch through the center. Here, hold the paper in place with a couple of pieces of tape, and then I’ll just mark the whole locations using something pointy, okay, So if we now take that off, we’ve got all the markings for all the holes that we need to drill, ready to go to attach the base to the top. I’m going to use these really nice Brass threaded inserts so that I can use regular machine screws to attach the pieces together. In addition to that, I’m going to use a couple of dowels to make sure that everything is nicely aligned. If you don’t want to use these brass inserts, that’s totally fine. You can use normal wood screws. The whole locations will still be the exact same thing. We’ll start by removing our nail. It has definitely done. It’s job, then we’ll drill out all the holes for our dowel pins, as well as the holes for our threaded inserts. In my case, those are six and a half mil, and now we’ll screw the inserts into those holes using a screw screwed into the insert with a knot locking it in place. [APPLAUSE] And so that the whole thing doesn’t come back out when you go to reverse the drill. We’ll, now loosen the nut, and then we can back out the drill and tada, one m5 threaded brass insert into our top plate, two more left and now after inserting a couple of dowel pins into the big holes that we drilled, we can align those into the holes in the printed plastic pieces and ta-da. That’s basically our table, but there’s something about this the way it looks. Now that just doesn’t feel right. I feel like the top looks way too heavy compared to the really nice and slim bass. So let’s do something about that. Oh, and by the way, this is why I have both screws and dowel pins with only one of them attached. This thing is still super wobbly that will go away once the screws are in, though so to get this thing to look a little bit less massive and heavy and just in general lighter, I’m gonna give it a fairly heavy chamfer on the bottom here to make the front edge here much thinner and the way I’m gonna do that is with my newly restored Bailey number four hand plane, so I’ll start by marking off. How far in I want the chamfer to go? And then I’ll Mark. How much of the front edge? I want to take off and then I guess I just clamp it to the table. Put on some music and go to town with this guy, and I’m just going to keep taking off material until I touch both the lines. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music]. Oh, boy, there’s nothing else. At least. It was a lot of work, lets. Try it on, all right, guys. I’m not entirely sure what happened here, but the microphone didn’t record any sound, but this is me, basically just giving everything a really good sanding, making sure that there’s no sharp edges. And then I gave everything a nice coat of the osmo oil with a little bit of white pigment in that I used for almost all of my other projects. Once that was dry, I just assembled everything back together. Whacked in some dials aligned everything put in some screws pre-drilled and screwed in the last three screws that were missing from the bottom and that’s. It let’s see how it looks im. Super happy with this and the whole thing feels like, really sturdy. It’s almost like you could sit on it. As a matter of fact, hold on a second. I think you probably could sit on it so yeah. I made a little bar stool as well. It’s made in exactly the same way as the side table. Only difference is the angles of the printer parts and the lengths of the wooden parts. I mean, it definitely works, but it is a little bit too flimsy for my liking. I’m sure that could be fixed. Maybe beefing up the plastic parts, making them a little longer or even making this a four-legged stool, which would use the same exact parts for the legs. The only difference would be this middle part would need four holes instead of three. So maybe for now it’s best used as a decorative item rather than something to actually sit on. That’s up to you to decide, though. If you want to make any of these things, I’ll have a link in the description below to my website where you can download all the 3d files for both of these, as well as the templates for all the lengths and the whole patterns and everything you need to make them for the barstool slash plant holder here. I made a top out of plywood and instead of spending all that time making that shallow chamfer on the bottom here, I just use the normal 45 degree angle router bit to make a 45 degree chamfer on the bottom, which still looks really good. And would you look at that? It works as a stand for my new printer as well so since Prusa sent me this printer in exchange for using it in one of my projects. I just wanted to give you guys my final thoughts on it quickly. Summarize I’m super impressed by the machine that doesn’t come as a huge surprise as that’s. Basically, what the machine is known for and the thing I’m actually most impressed by is the print quality. The printer manages to maintain on the rougher and faster print settings, like this is a part for an upcoming project that is printed in their quickest and worst setting. And although you can definitely see the individual printed layers, the consistency makes the part look really, really good. It has a bunch of other cool features like this flexible build plate that the prints snap right off. Although I did have a couple of prints fail on me because they weren’t attached to the build plate. Well, enough the way around. This is just use a thin layer of glue stick which I use for all the other printers anyways, so that’s no big deal, but keep that in mind. If the surface touching the build plate is really small. So yeah, that will be it for this video. Thanks so much for watching. You can download the files and the templates for both of these on my website link in the description below. You can also find a bunch of templates for my previous projects there, and if you want to support my channel, you can hit that, like button and subscribe to my channel. Turn on the bell notifications. So you get notified. Every time I post something new, You can also go check out my merchandise store link in description below as for now. Thanks so much for watching this video. I’ll see you guys in the next one. Bye bye! I forgot my coffee.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

read more