3d Printed Cubone Skull | Lifesize Cubone Skull // 3d Printing

Jake Misra - Make Stuff

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Lifesize Cubone Skull // 3d Printing


If you own a 3d printer, you’ve probably made one of these. It’s a little cubone skull. It’s really popular on Thingiverse it’s kind of small, so I decided to make this. It’s a life-size cubone skull. I painted it to look as real as I could and today. I’m going to teach you how you can make it yourself, okay, So for this project? You only need one piece of software you can get print studio from Dremel website. Just go to support downloads and then select your OS once print studio is installed. You can grab the cubone file username. Blue B on Thingiverse. It’s a really nice file. It’s the really popular one it’s pretty much. The one that everybody uses once you have your file. You can bring it into print studio. You’re just going to go ahead and center the file and then go to repair and plain cut and you’re going to cut it in half. I’d save the STL. If you can go ahead and repeat the process for the other side and then we’re going to do it front to back as well, so you’ll end up with four pieces in total. If you want to make the skull a little bigger than then you can go to six or eight pieces. I just wanted to do it in four and maxed out the size for four pieces. You don’t have to use print studio to slice the file. I actually use simplify 3d It is okay, slicing software. It’s got really good support generation. So if you’re not super happy with your current 3d printing software, you can use print studio as well. I recommend that you check it out. Check it out and at least play around with it. It’s not for you, it’s not for you once you have all the parts and print it out, You can go ahead and clean up the edges. You’re going to want these edges to be as smooth as possible, completely flat, so get rid of any fuzzies that you have file them down and make sure that they’re totally flat. This will make sure that when you glue the pieces together. They actually line up really well. I actually had one of the pieces break off once I printed, it took it off. The plate immediately broke off so what it did then is. I took the other three pieces and repaired where there were some of the cracks. It just added some support material inside of the STL. I did this in Tinkercad, but I will upload the fixed files on my finger verse as well. If you want to go ahead and use those. Otherwise, you can just use the original file from Blooby on Thingiverse once I had all the files printed out, I use regular CA glue or superglue looking back. I probably would have used a glue. There’s a little more viscous than this the. CA glue was really runny and kind of hard to work with the first file that had broke. I glued it together with super glue. And then I reinforced it A little bit with hot glue as well. The easiest way to glue. These together is to put one of the flat edges on the table for both pieces and then line up the other flat edge with the super glue. Super glue should set pretty fast, but you’re going to want to make sure to apply some force so that those are really bonded together. Once you have the front two pieces glued together and the back two pieces glued together. Then you can bring the whole skull together. I actually just put this in a duct-tape roll and then put the front piece on top of the back. So now we have all four pieces glued together. It actually dried overnight, so this is nice and solid. We’re gonna take automotive bondo. You can get this at an automotive supply store. You can get it on. Amazon pretty common. So you actually you take two bondo? And then you add a little bit of hardening agent? Mix it up until it’s a consistent color, and then you have maybe two to three minutes to work with it. You’re going to just take the bondo and apply it to where the cracks are. If there are any gaps you saw, there’s a pretty big gap on the top of the cube own skull. Just fill it in with Bondo. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but the thinner that you’re able to make that layer to easier it will be to say it. So now you start sanding. I started with 80 grit sandpaper just to bring all of the really high edges down. This isn’t going to make a totally smooth surface, but it’s going to make it pretty flat, so I got all of the cracks on the top of the skull as well as around the highs. I didn’t do the inside. I don’t think anyone’s going to see the inside unless I show them, so it really wasn’t a big deal to do the bodywork on the inside for me. Once I have everything. Sanded in with 80 grit sandpaper. I moved up to 220 and this is just going to create a nice finer finish after I was done with Bondo. I gave it a cup of automotive filler primer. The great thing about this stuff is it’s sandable, so I give it a coat of this, sanded it in and just add about two or three more times before I moved on to actual paint, so I did two coats of the filler primer in between each round of sanding. I moved up to 600 grit, sandpaper for this part of the process, and the skull is starting to look really smooth Now that I was done, Finally sanding, I moved onto actual paint. I started by doing about three coats of white, so it was nice and solid. And then I moved on to a nice off yellow skull looking color. I got the paint at blick. I really like it. I really like how it turned out. I did a light coat of yellow all over the skull, and then I did it really dark, facing from the bottom as though we’re bleached out on the top of the skull and had kind of yellowed on the bottom of it to do the detailing work on the skull and give it a little bit more depth. I did an acrylic wash. You can make a wash by using regular acrylic paint and watering it down. I applied the wash by painting it on everywhere in the cracks all over the skull and then wiping as much off of it as I could. What this does is creates depth. It sits in all the cracks and grooves and sits where any dirt or moisture would sit naturally on the skull. You can do this as much or as little as you’d like. I did it over pretty much every surface on the skull, varying the amount of paint or water that I was putting in each area. It ended up looking really cool. And this is the finished skull as you can see the paints at really well in any of the cracks, but I did allow the paint. Just sit on smooth surfaces as well and it gives a depth that you really wouldn’t be able to do with a standard paint and paint brush The only thing that I would have changed about this project is making this call big enough to fit on my head. It’s almost there, it’s just not quite big enough. If you enjoyed the video, you can click here to check out another video on my channel otherwise. I had a lot of fun with this project. Thanks for watching and Ill. Catch you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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