3d Printed Bust Of Yourself | How To Make Busts // 3d Scanning


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How To Make Busts // 3d Scanning


Hey, I’m Alec. And today I’m going to show you how to turn a 3d scan into a bust. Merrymakers carries a variety of 3d scanners like the Matoran form and the BQ, cyclops. Those are really meant for action figures size scans that you intend to print later and aren’t really designed for very precise accuracy and trying to print something really advanced, whereas the 3d sense scanner is designed for people size objects that are trying to scan or scan something on a desk and have a bit more control over how you are scanning, so it works really well to scan people whether it’s just the portrait or it’s a full body, and since we don’t have a lot of prints floating around the office that utilize scanning, we get questions about. What does the scan look like when it’s printed? So I decided to incorporate two different things. The project I’ve had in mind of a 3d printed organization chart because matter hackers has been growing quite extensively since I first started incorporating scanners into that by scamming people, printing it in their favorite color, cleaning up the model and then being able to hang these up on the Wall [Music] so the first step for this project was trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to mount these on the wall, so I knew I needed some form of a flat back and I experimented with a couple different ideas these as they are. The back of this is the very furthest back point, so even though that the back of my neck here is closed. This is still what would touch the wall first. So I can put an adhesive strip here. I’m gonna use a hook and loop style adhesive to attach this on the wall. Be able to rearrange it, But I also tried using like a reco Roman pillar and putting the head on top of it, but that didn’t have a real good way to mount on the wall. I tried doing like, like you’d have like a deer mount with it’s like a shield, But I just looked kind of weird to have all of our heads like a mount like it didn’t look, right so the box seemed like the best way to go now that I knew how I wanted to mount it. I went ahead and used the amount of control design tools to create a box and the size I wanted, which is 75 by 75 25 millimeters. Then I used the text align and fit to bounds so that I could change the name and the title without having to remodel this every single time. I do another person. Somebody gets a title. Change anything like that and just be really easy for me to come back in there. Change the text and have it auto populate. Center everything and keep everything well aligned plus can be very unique and how they are actually structured. Some are just cut at the torso. Some have they follow like the contours of the person’s shirt. There’s all sorts of different ways to actually create a bust where it doesn’t have the full body of somebody but to do this specific curve here where it’s got the curves on the front and then the curve along the back, I just went into fusion 360 and modeled a shape that would cut out this from the model, and then I looked from the front and did the same this way, but instead of cutting it from this, I made a block that was the actual shape. I wanted to cut out that way. I could take all the 3d scans. Put them with the cut away and then subtract the cut away from it, leaving just this behind so really sped up my process to make a base template that I could use and subtract from everything at that point so now it was time to start scanning and the best advice I could give. You is get a six foot USB extension cable. They’re pretty cheap and what this will do is just give you a lot more room to get around somebody because even though it might make sense to put a person on a office chair and just rotate that as you stand still. I think what actually happens. Is that the accelerometer? In the sense? So when it doesn’t sense that the scanner is moving, but the person is it just sort of morphs the person so that the the shape is just being revolved instead of it actually being like scanning each side of it, so it works better to move you around the person than it is to move the person himself, so just get a chair with a low back, get an extension cord for the sense scanner and then just scan the person going around making sure to get the top of the head under the neck behind the ears and try to get all sorts of features. You don’t want to go over surfaces more than once, because then it may like mesh things weird. You may get like crooked noses, and when you’re done scanning since you’re gonna be further away from your desk and you’ll be able to pause this easily. I just take my hands and cover the sensor which causes it to lose tracking and stop gathering data. So that just means that I’m not going to have random bits of information that is trying to interpolate into the body. Well, 3d sense does a really good job at getting a base model. It usually has some sort of issues for most people parts in their hair or the cheeks, usually end up having deep canyons just because those are areas that tends to be a bit. Glosser than the rest. So the sense scanner works really well when you have matte finishes, so sometimes you’ll dust something with a fine powder to try and bring down the shine. If you’re scanning an object, sometimes people will paint it in a matte finish primer or something like that. Some scans a lot better because the scanner doesn’t do too well with gloss, however, we can go in a mesh mixer and very easily a repair these without really being able to tell that this there was an issue in the first place. So when I’m in Meshmixer, I usually only use draw plus or bubble smooth. I’ll use draw plus to add material and bubble smooth to reduce the material that I’ve added so there is going to be some areas like earlobes where they may extend too far. I’ll use bubble smooth to push that back in towards the ear, so it’s not drooping as low and only use draw + to pull out those valleys and those canyons so that they are flush with the surface. Close enough then. I’ll use bubble smooth to go back over and clean that up. Now you can use bubble smooth as your secondary tool, which would mean that you could just click shift, hold that down and then instantaneously switch between the two different brushes, so it makes it really easy to go between adding material here, smoothing it out, adding a little more and smoothing it out. It’s just a bit like modeling with clay. It’s just using a computer so once you have draw us and bubble smooth, worked out, you’re gonna want to go back and forth and be careful not to add too much or to subtract too little, and you can use strength, depth size, all sorts of different presets and configurations like that to figure it out. It’ll just take a little playing with. I like to keep my size at about 30 and my strength at about 50 when I’m using either tool. So now that I have the models cleaned up, I’ll export them as an STL and then import them into netfabb so here I can use a boolean to very precisely. We’ll first line up the bust with the cutaway and then be able to adjust it so that it’s centered because you may find that even though the model is centered with the origin, the splitting line between the person may be over here, so we need to shift the scan a little to the side to actually line it up with the cutaway, so you don’t have a weird cutout where their shoulders like this when you’re done with the cutaway, so just a little bit of play and it’s really easy to use in netfabb. You can just type in the exact X or Y distance. You want to shift things and you’ll just play with that to get the cutaway to be at just the right position So now that I have the cutaway subtracted from the bust, I can import the bust back into Matic control and continue using design tools to align things and create this little connector that goes between the two that way. I can swap out if someone wants to print their Boston A different color. It’s really easy to just reprint it. Put it on here and not have to reprint the entire thing every time something changes and to do that. I just align the box with the center of the X and the center of the Y and the top of the Z added some offsets here and there, so everything lined up and I made sure that the bust wasn’t past the back of this, and then that just kept everything nice and solid. I’m using all these different filaments and different colors to help decorate the office and well. This is a very specific project. You can absolutely use this for your own like you’re going to scan your office or scan your family and make small bus. You can giveaway of them that they can decorate their house with or take models that. RV exist online of video game characters or movie characters, superheroes and create busts of them. Now that there’s this process really ironed out, It’s pretty easy to be able to take like Master Chief and turn him into a bus and only a couple minutes. So whether you’re scanning somebody, you know, or you’re taking a 3d model that already exists. I’d love to see whatever bus You can come up with feel free to tag us on social media Because I will definitely be watching. I’m out for mater hackers. Thanks for watching. Thank you for watching if you liked that. Subscribe to our channel to keep up to date with all of our videos and remember, go to Madame Hackers. Com to shop for everything 3d printing.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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