Transcript:
[MUSIC] Everyone welcome to my channel. Thanks for tuning in today. I’m gonna be going over a project that I’ve been waiting to start for quite a while now. And I finally have everything in place to begin. What obviously, the title of this video is making my own 3d printed. Iron Man suit. Now through this video or multi definitely multiple videos. I’m not gonna be really telling you what to do. There’s a million different ways. You can approach this tons of guides between paper crafts and 3d printing and Evi a foam. There’s so many guides out there that if you want to hop on the train for one of those, absolutely go for it, but I’m really documenting my own build and the ways that I know. So if I start talking about a technique that maybe you have never heard of or something. You just aren’t familiar with. Drop a comment message me. I’ll share whatever I’m doing to the best of my ability and with that, there’s gonna be a lot. I’m going to go over in this video, Just forgetting the helmets to kind of. Look how I did and the type of equipment. I’m using what I’m gonna be doing, so I just want to jump into it and first off. I’ll show you guys the equipment and the 3d printer that we were using for most of this project. Hopefully I can do this. I’m just one and do it all at home, so I’m trying to keep this as DIY as possible. So yeah, let’s get started so first off. What are we using the set up? I’m gonna be using for most of this. Pending just small upgrades throughout is AK reality CR 10 S the only upgrades. I’ve actually done to it at this point or a magnetic bed for just speed because everything I’m gonna be printing is mostly gonna be done with rafts and supports, so I don’t need some nice, beautiful, smooth glass bottom. I needed to print. Get it off and start the next one. I’ve also gotten a Capricorn cap. Corn tube upgraded that I didn’t really see how to have a problem with the first one, but everyone recommended this thing as an immediate upgrade. I also moved the spool holder up top. I’m working on Z-axis supports right now. So eventually those will come, but this has been just perfect for me at this point. I get good, consistent prints. I’m using a six point six millimeter nozzle, But I might mess around with some other ones. I got a couple other ones lined up here. I don’t really have any other mods printed. I have the normal bed leveling knobs. I got a wire extension kit because I put my control box underneath it. And also I also printed both legs to give it a little bit of boost for cooling, That’s about it. I have my own little fire suppression system in the works, But that’s just, that’s something you can Google and look at, so that’s what I’m using its standard. Pla and a lot of people are probably gonna say. Oh, my God, you should definitely print out an ABS because PLA warps. I’m not gonna be ever taking this somewhere too hot, and I’m printing It pretty thick, so rigidity and strength. I’m totally ok with it. I haven’t had any issues with the helmets. At all to this point, they’ve been holding up quite fine and, yeah, so let’s move on to where I started. And where I’m at now. So after the print was set up after I got everything kind of running how I thought I needed to. I started messing with the cura slicer. And now Korea has been absolutely great through this whole project. The only problem is even out of the box. I was trying to use other people’s profiles and just there’s so much information and misinformation out there that I was getting garbage prints, but then she came out. Alright, so that was that was alright for my first print. This gave me hope only a little bit of a couple rules. It’s but I thought this would be good enough, and I scaled up and it came out like trash. This was the first top part of this helmet right here, and it was absolute garbage. So I needed to figure out how to get better prints so after a lot of trial and error. I landed with this. This was a 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 piece helmet that I had printed. As you can see, there’s still a lot of bondo on it. It didn’t come out good. I needed to fix this bad. The quality was all right. The thickness was ok. It didn’t need too much filling, but I still had to glue everything together and get it to be presentable, but there’s so many nooks and crannies and just it turned into an absolute nightmare. I had bondo all over the place smoothing this out. Just was it wasn’t working. The faceplate came out, all right, because it was one piece. I was able to bondo and fill it. And if I kept at this, I could probably get it glossy and nice and shiny, just like a piece of metal. It doesn’t even fit in the helmet and it just it’d be so much work to finish this, so I kind of step back again and trying to look at. What am I doing wrong and that’s when I actually stumbled upon the creosote mod for the Cure. Uh, us, but for the Cure a slicer and it saved this entire project. I was starting to get really kind of concerned with the quality and maybe this wasn’t feasible and I should just quit, but I’d already invested in the printer and I needed to get this to work. I’ve wanted to get this to work so once I downloaded the Cree awesome Mod and searched Youtube Google for it, It’s just a bunch of pre-loaded profiles and settings to help you print, and it was the best thing I ever did, so I downloaded that started messing with some of those profiles and doing some test prints and right off the bat. I started getting nice, smooth quality prints. Now this is a this was on the rough, quick setting, which even the guy who showed me The video recommended. Not doing. But this still gave me exactly what I needed. This gave me that little balance of speed versus quality. I’m gonna fill these anyway. I’m gonna bomb to and paint them anyway. So as long as I can get them out. They’re looking pretty decent. That’s all I need. So then I printed the entire helmet. I found out that less was more in this case for that one. I just found a random profile of mark six helmet on Thingiverse and printed it out, glued together and thought that would be enough. This helmet, however, was printed in three pieces. The face plate right here, and then this whole top piece right here and then the jaw part. And there’s actually blue line right there that I’d filled in, and I’m starting to smooth this over. This is taking so much less time than that ever took. I was able to get this helmet. This smooth the face plates pretty much already done. Just a couple of little pinholes to fill back in and then. I actually start painting. This this whole thing was done in the time. It took me just again. This face fillet of looking like this, So I had a nice, consistent print and I I believe this whole helmet took roughly 40 hours to print so nothing too crazy three pieces, and I didn’t really need to fill it in at all or adjust anything glued together. Faceplate goes in and out perfectly. I think there was just a little bit of supports ahead of trim off. I already started adding a hinge system in there. Oh, let me pause and talk about this hinge system for a second. So this is the mark 85 helmet right here, there are no. Diy’s for the hinge system on this, there are tons and tons of guides for it And I just got so overwhelmed with all of them. I decided to start making my own and it’s been much easier. If you want to use one of those guides or whatever by all means feel free, but what I’m gonna do is a much simpler version or a simpler version that I think will be to get this to open and close with having to program Arduino boards or Stepper Motors. So hopefully that works out and then we obviously have eyes to light up, and this will all be motorized and open and closed. So I got this helmet right again. Creole Saman printed This basically by itself, downloaded it in print And eventually I got this. I used a very, very simple bondo filler. I think it’s called bait boy over here in the UK. Through some bondo on it, sanded primer filler rinse. Repeat, it’s the same type of stuff you would do in bodywork. You would just bottle over it. Try to cut it down spray. Some primer over it keep sanding until it’s smooth and eventually this will be ready for paint. What I use to glue? It together was a two-part. Ca glue cyanoacrylate. I think it’s called, and it’s been absolutely solid. So I’m okay with this. It fits my head and that’s. What matters this doesn’t fit my head as you can see. This is pretty small and it’s a little too small. This was an accident, but it was a happy accident. Probably just like your parents, but might have told you when you were a kid. So what had happened was? I was happy with this helmet. This is the mark 85 but I wanted to test out some new settings. I messed with the investment. Cure a little bit more, and I wanted to see if I could print the mark 50 helmet a little bit better just to see quality -. I did not realize they were not the same size in the file. I totally messed that up. This one was too a little bit too big for my head. I I could see all this down with just a little bit, so I figured. Hey, this one’s, probably the same size. Let me scale it down 10% and now as you can see, it is way smaller because it was already smaller than theirs, someone to begin with totally an in scale and in any measurements, but it came out again. Pretty friggin perfect. It’s hard to see in this lighting you can. I mean, you might be able to see some of the layer lines. I didn’t do any post work on this. I didn’t do any sanding, no filling. No PLA smoothing nothing. I took it out, broke off. Some of the supports stuffed it up a little bit and painted. It painted it. I think this is colonial red. This is like a rust-oleum or Kryolan gold and a krylon flat nickel painted, it popped everything off, and the faceplate fits perfect. I am so mad that I printed this thing too small, because it might have very well just replaced that whole helmet and this was printed in just two pieces. I printed it with supports in the back like that, just standing up and it came out. I mean, absolutely perfect for what I needed. So what’s this all about -? Why do any of you care that you’re watching this? Why do I care – sharing this? I want to! I think it’d be cool to have another good little documentation of an at-home build. I thought this would be something that incredibly out of my price. Range 3d printer technology has come down so much that it’s something you can do at home now, and if you have a couple of those little skills to bondo and paint and fiberglass. This is something you can absolutely do. There’s so much stuff on the internet now for tips and tricks and guys that I wanted to give it a shot and I’m hoping documenting it. Will these give people the confidence to go and even try something like this? A budget bill? That doesn’t look absolutely terrible through the whole process. I’m probably gonna be focusing mostly on the mark 85 suit, the one from endgame, though I did end up liking this helmet a little more. The design from Infinity War, the mark 50 I’m just really mad that this is too small, but I think I’m gonna focus on the mark 85 the next video. Hopefully this will be painted and maybe the motors will be in for the automatic faceplate. Who knows it depends on if those Chinese motors get here and you slower, I have the switches. I have the wires. I have the plan. I have the hinges, but I’m just waiting on the actual driving orders to show up because I have to be cheap and get them from the other side of the planet. So if you guys have any questions about anything, you saw more details on my 3d printer set up more details on the programs. I’m using and how I’m scaling and what print said I’m using message. Me drop a comment if you want to know more about how. I got this helmet to look like this. If you have your own tips or guides, you want to tell me? I’m just an idiot for trying any of this or one of yell at me for not using abs, feel free. I’ll welcome the conversation. I don’t really mind and hopefully I can give somebody just a little bit more insight on how to do this whole project, so stay tuned [Music].