3d Print Cell Phone Holder | Phone Stand 3d Printed – Tutorial, Print Settings, Time Lapse, Showcase

Gabriel's 3D Printing

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Phone Stand 3d Printed - Tutorial, Print Settings, Time Lapse, Showcase


Foreign, hello and welcome to Gabriel’s 3d printing today. We’ll be looking at this phone stand uploaded by go Afton’s first things first were going to go down to the developer, notes, see if they have any specifications, and they say rafts don’t matter and supports. Yes, so we do need supports for sure. Once you’re ready, we’re going to go up here and click on this blue download files, and we should get a folder similar to this. Now you can safely Ignore this dot FBP file. We just need the STL, so click and hold on this STL and drag it to your preferred slicer of choice and give it a few seconds to load in once it’s loaded in. We’re gonna do one thing before we start messing with the print settings. Let’s orientate the model. If you orientate the model sideways, it will actually save you some time and filament so lets. Go ahead and do that to do that. You have to click on the model anywhere. You’re going to see these little. Uh, arrows pop up now. We’re going to go to this toolbar on the left hand side and we are going to click on the third one down, which is rotate once we’re here, we’re going to go to the last button, which is select face to line to build plate. We’re going to click on that, and we’re going to move our mouse over the model and just move your mouse a little we’re going to zoom in, and we’re going to click on this face. This face you see right here. Just click on it and it should rotate it to the orientation that we want. Now we’re gonna go back up here to this move. Uh, setting right here, and we’re gonna change every number You see here to zero zero zero. That should just center our model, but once we’re done with that, we can now start messing with print settings. The print setting should be pretty straightforward. We’re gonna go over here to profile, and we’re going to click here. You can select whatever layer how you want. I highly recommend just use the lowest quality or the largest layer. How you have because there’s not a lot of details in here, It’s just meant to be a phone stand, so make it nice and quick, just select the lowest quality you have if this pops up, simply click on, discard infill, we’re not going to change, so we’re going to leave that as it is, although you can lower it if you want, but I’ll just keep it. At 20 percent supports, we will need supports, so we’re going to go here, where it says generate supports and click on that now in order to make these super easy to remove. We’re going to first change our overhang angle to whatever your default angle is. Mine is usually around 60 65. So I’ll change mine to 65. If you have a basic printer, let’s say like an Ender Hender’s 3 I would just stay With Within the 55 range next. We’re going to go down here to the support density and we’re going to change this number down to 5 percent now. If you do not have support density, you’re going to put your mouse over here. Click on this gear icon and simply search up, uh, support density and this should pop up and just make sure that’s checked and close that so that’s gonna go down to five percent and we’re also going to change the support Z distance to so mines already at 0.28 so that’s good, Um, if it’s a little higher, then or sorry if it’s a little lower, change it up to 0.28 percent, if it’s higher than that already, just keep it at whatever number you have, just make sure it is over 0.28 Next we’re going to go to bill paid adhesion now. The developer said that it didn’t matter. And if you have good adhesion, you do not need any build plate adhesion, But for my case, I have a glass bed, and whenever I print printed this model, I had severe warping on this little hand right here. I’ve never had any warping before, but this model somehow decided to give me warping, so I don’t know if my house was too cold and the ambient temperature was just off. But, uh, if if you have a glass bed or if you have poor adhesion, add a brim. If you do not have any adhesion problems, then you do not have to add any built-in adhesion. I will, though, so I’m gonna go here. I’m gonna select brim and then we’ll leave everything how it is here, but once we’re done with that were, uh, we’re basically finished. All you have to do now is click on slice and give it a few seconds to slice up. Once it’s finished slicing, you should be given the time estimate of roughly 5 hours or 19 minutes, but that will depend on your printer and the settings that you used as well as a estimated filament usage of 54 grams. Now we always preview the print and here take a look around the model. See if anything weird is or funky is going on. We see the supports here. We see the brim down there, and if you didn’t have a brim, then you’re not gonna see this little blue lines down here. But, uh, other than that. Everything looks pretty good. So just save the file and send it over to your printer. [MUSIC] This is the model straight off the print bed. The supports aren’t too difficult to remove, but they may be a hassle. If you don’t remove them correctly, try to push near the top of the support in order to get those removed a lot quicker and easier you may have to post process the model with a little bit of sanding in order to remove some rough edges. Here’s the model straight off. The print bed should be noted that the actual opening is only one centimeter in length, meaning most newer phones, especially those with cases will not fit inside of those grooves, but they will happily stand at the very top. Everything came out pretty good, except with my model like I mentioned before I did get a little bit of warping, and that’s probably because of, uh, my build plate adhesion issues that I’ve had recently, so if you don’t have any bill played adhesion issues, then you should be fine. You shouldn’t have that curve like mine does, and like I said, it really does work with both a case or no case at all, but if you do have a case, it’ll just stand on top of the grooves rather than inside in the end. The model came out beautifully and I do enjoy it. I use it basically daily, so I would definitely recommend this print for anybody who wants a little phone stand. [music] you!

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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