Raspberry Pi Camera Mount 3d Print | All New Raspberry Pi Camera Mount For 3d Printers

Kersey Fabrications

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All New Raspberry Pi Camera Mount For 3d Printers

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Hi. I’m Chris, and today on cozy fabrications. I’m going to be releasing my Raspberry Pi Camera Mount that I designed for the Under-five. But that actually can work on any printer that actually uses these 20-millimeter based extrusions, such as 2020 Extrusions or 2040 extrusions. So if you’ve been looking for a nice, rigid Raspberry Pi camera mount, that will use a camera that actually gives you focus so that you can get the good time lapses. You’ve been looking for, stay tuned right here and I’ll show you where you can get this and how you can put it together right here on Kiersey fabrications. Let’s go so here I am on by highly modified a net, a eight. This one doesn’t catch fire anymore, and I’ve got all of the components laid out plus two of this one, because I actually use two of these for this particular printer that I’m gonna put these on. These are all the various components that you need to build the camera. Mount, I’ve got the mounting base plate that actually attaches to the extrusion. I’ve got these actually hold the camera in place. This is a pivot for the camera, and then I’ve got various size, mounting rods or rails or whatever you gonna call them. That actually will position the camera where you want it to be the idea behind. The design of this camera was that I wanted a mount. That would be rigid. That’s why there are a lot of other camera mounts that you can use on Thingiverse but this one was designed to be rigid with as few joints as possible. The printer is moving a lot and therefore you could run into a case to where a lot of joints would actually create a lot of vibration in the camera. I wanted to minimize that, and actually, this is my second version of this, and the original version actually made all pegs that you could use to assemble this, and so it required no extra screws to put it together. A problem with this, though, is even with the peg system that you could kind of shore up it. It wanted to sag because of the way that pegs have to be made to where they can bend. You end up with sagging of the camera, so this latest version. I’ve made actually uses screws to actually assemble it so that you know you can tighten it. You can make it as rigid as you like so again. That’s the design goals here. This final print. I’ve done here uses carbon fiber PLA. I use that for two reasons number. One it’s going to be more rigid than just standard PLA, adding the carbon fiber to it. Take some of the Flex out of it. It’s also going to be lighter than standard PLA because the carbon fiber, which also should reduce the amount of sagging that you have in the print, this camera mount, of course, can be printed in any filament You can printed in PLA. You can print it in PT. G doesn’t matter as I’ve got. It laid out here. This is gonna be the orientation that you’re gonna find it in on Thingiverse so that it prints correctly and there’s only one component of the whole set. This one here that actually is going to need support. It’s because these screw holes actually have inset nuts, and those parts are going to need probably concentric supports, but it’s minimal. Everything else, prints flat. I’ve set it up to where you won’t have any problems printing this on any printer. So let’s get this off the bed and let’s get it put together. I print with Brims because it makes sure that my components are going to be flat. Some of these brooms are, of course stuck together. It’s not a big deal and remove them all anyway. This is an ultra base sheet does a really good job of sticking the components, but they actually come off really easily. When you’re done there, we go. Let’s go to clean up and assembly. One other word on the print settings of these. I like to use particularly with any mechanical parts like this. I use a one point six millimeter wall, and then I use a 50% infill to make these really rigid, and I just think for a structural component like these are actually going to be holding something up. Those are the best settings, the cleanup process here. I’m going to use two tools. I’m going to use the utility, and I have to get off the larger pieces of plastic, and then I’m gonna go back over all the edges with the deburring tool to get off that last bit of plastic around the edge and to make it smooth. You can check out the D. Burn tool in the description. If you don’t already have one, let’s talk about the camera. I chose real quick. So the reason for this camera is there’s a standard. Arduino camera that doesn’t have the lens on it. The lens is going to do two things for us, so the lens is going to first of all put glass between the actual camera lens and your subject, which is going to produce a better image. It’s also this one with when you loosen this screw here. You can then focus this camera, which is going to give you a lot better picture. It allows you to get closer up on the object that you’re actually trying to observe and not lose focus. So this your time-lapse’s should turn out a lot better without actually having to buy a more expensive camera this again. It’s an art you Cam. It can be found on Amazon. I’ll give you the link in the description. It’s about thirty dollars, which isn’t too bad for what we’re making so. I’m actually going to put this on fast mode to the you guys. Don’t get bored watching me. Put this together first thing. I’m doing is embedding the nuts here. You can either hammer them in. You can use a vise. You can use the method. I’m using here which just tighten them in to the base with the screw, which basically pulls them in using the screw. Then you pull the screw out. The next thing we’re going to do is then put the nuts in the sidewalls, which are going to be for the tilt mount. Then we can set the camera into the base. We need to remove the two screws from the actual camera lens itself. Otherwise we won’t be able to fit this sleeve around it. Once the sleeves put in, we can put in the four screws tighten that down. Then we can put back in the two screws that we pull it out. It’s the one thumb screw, and then a Philips screw that holds everything together next. We’re gonna put an m5 nut into the base using one of those methods as before. I’m going to tighten that down now. We’re going to attach the tilt to the camera. We’re going to put a washer between the two. It’s a little difficult, but it’s worth it. Then we’re going to use an m3 screw to screw that together on both sides. Now we’re gonna put together the base again. We’re gonna embed an m5 nut in the bottom, then we’re gonna use an m5 buy 20 socket head cap screw to attach all these other pieces together again, embedding m5 Nuts in each of the pieces. I’m also using to m5 Washers, one in between them and one on top to put everything together that makes everything slide better. It makes it where you can actually adjust everything without too much trouble. It also protects the plastic from the screw itself and finally we attach the camera tilt assembly to the top and we’re all done and this is what the fully assembled piece looks like before we attach it back to the printer, so as the final step of the process, let’s get this attached to the printer and hooked up to our Raspberry Pi now. The usual m5 screws attached here. Slide it right in now. I’ve got our tea nuts That will slot into the extrusions line those up and this goes straight over here. You can put this. Obviously, wherever you want to is on the belts are in anyway. Make sure these are good and secure. You should be able to look from the side and see that they are in all the way, all right, and now if you need to, you can loosen these up a little bit. They can be tightened down afterwards. That’s the one up here’s in the bottom so that it can be adjusted. Okay, now you just put it where it needs to go roughly, and this can all be adjusted. You can switch off the pieces. Last thing to do is attach it Back To your Raspberry Pi In this mount. I need to run it back through the top and put it back into the upper ribbon cable slot. Tighten that down, all right. I’m gonna slide this on for now. I’ll put the screws back in later once I have verified that it works so to make sure everything’s lined up where you want it to be and make sure that you’re getting the the picture that you want the picture quality you want, you’ll need open up your Raspberry Pi interface, your octave higher interface and make sure that number one everything is in frame that you want in frame and number two that you use the focus on the camera. I usually Center my carriage so that I have something to focus on. Get like the the heat warning and the indoor logo in focus. And then you can go for your first test print. I will link to an octopi octo print tutorial as well as a time-lapse tutorial so that you can get more information about how to set up the software. Now let’s go check out my first print using this. Mount this model is by David Ozpin. It can be found at my mini factory and it is printed in Pali alchemy onyx at a point 1/2 layer height. So that about does it for this one. I think that takes you through all the steps that you’ll need to be able to print one of these for yourself to be able to assemble it so head over to Thingiverse. Download these files if you need any of the parts that I mentioned here. If you need any of the screws. If you need the camera itself, I’ve gotten affiliate links to Amazon down in the description. If you buy through those links, you’ll help me out. You’ll help the channel out a little bit. If you want to help out the channel long term, please check out my patreon page that I’ve linked to below. I’ve got some long term goals set up there. I also have some rewards for you for signing up at different tiers. If you haven’t yet subscribed to my channel, go ahead and hit one of the various subscribe buttons. You’ll find down below, hit the little bell if you’d like to be notified each time. I post a video that about Does it for this week here on Kersey fabrications. Thanks for joining me [Music] you!