Monoprice Mp Mini Delta 3d Printer Review | Monoprice Mini Delta Review –

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Monoprice Mini Delta Review -

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Today. I’m going to review my first Delta 3d printer. It’s the mighty Monoprice Mini Delta [Music] [Music]. I’ve been 3d printing for quite a while now, but I’ve never owned a delta printer well. One of my patrons recommended this monoprice mini. Delta to me and I went ahead and I ordered it. I got mine delivered in just a couple of days from eBay, Australia for two hundred and eighty dollars Australian, which is around us two hundred dollars. If you’re in the US, however, you can get one from Amazon for only one hundred and sixty US dollars. This is a printer, that’s very, very good at certain things and quite limited in other ways. So let’s start our examination by looking at the specs first and foremost, this is a delta printer, which is different in structure to most Cirelli printers you might have seen before the build volume is cylindrical with a diameter of 110 millimeters and a height of 120 millimeters, its all-metal fully assembled and comes with auto bed leveling from factory, it claims to print really fast and really accurately and also boasts. Wi-fi connectivity. Some nice features there. So how was it to Unbox, assemble and do the first friends. This printer promised no assembly, so let’s see what it’s like inside underneath the polystyrene. We have the printer. You pull it out by the handle. And that is your assembly complete. We have an accessories box with the power supply and I really appreciate it When companies include an Australian plug. The plastic scraper is laughable, But the SD card and Allen keys are fit for the job. There’s one piece of foam packaging, stopping anything from moving around in transit. Simply lift it up. Remove it and peel off that super satisfying bit of protective tape over the screen, the filament spool holder simply clips into place on the back of the machine, no screws required this note on or off switch, so simply plug in the power supply to activate the printer. It has a little splash screen and then the main menu and you’ll notice everything is clean and simple. You’ll also notice that it’s not a touchscreen and it took me a while to get used to this and to learn to use the buttons. Instead of touching the screen first, we have up and down buttons and then a select button in the center. It’s very intuitive in to work out how to do all of the function’s inbuilt. I loaded up some filament on the back. Fed it into the extruder there is an option on the LCD to feed it, but it takes a long time because of the Bowden set up so instead of I squeezed it and fed in the filament until it was coming into the hot end. And then I switched to the LCD and extruded through that last little bit, so it was primed and ready to print the micro. SD card, as always is a little bit fiddly, but it plugs into the back as well and then you access the print menu where it lists all of the files, and interestingly, anything with the auto zero Zero G filename can be cited with a single click on the button at the back of the machine. After it reaches temp, it goes into the auto bed. Leveling sequence a delta actually homes at the top of the printer. After this, it comes to the bottom and it pushes down and activates a switch under each corner of the round bed from this. It gathers all the information it needs to know whether the bed is sloped or flat. I found the whole process very straightforward, and I was up and printing in a little over 10 minutes, quite painless so far. And if you look at this cat that was on the SD card, the quality is simply outstanding. It’s got beautiful, even extrusion and the only place it struggles is in some of the overhangs. The question was could. I repeat this quality when I was slicing the files myself on the SD card was a version of Cura and a profile ready to load up, so I loaded up a 3d benching, and I was very pleased with the results. Say for a little bit of stringing this bench. E is beautiful again. It has beautiful, even extrusion, no surface artifacts and no portions that have overheated or distorted. Now, simplify 3d also has a built in profile for this printer so next. I loaded it up and ran the bench II again. To compare how it printed the quality on this one was also very good with the same very minor stringing but overall a very well formed shape and very little to be alarmed with so it’s. Nice to know that there were two slicing options that were going to get great results and I should note that both profiles and all of these prints you see here? We’re done at 100 millimeters per second base speed and point 2 millimeter layer height and a link to all of these files is in the description below now one thing. I like to do to test. Extrusion consistency is to print thin in Vars mode. So I printed this simple bars in this beautiful x3d twinkling red PLA again. The result was glorious, Beautiful, beautiful, consistent extrusions and just look at how nice this is. It catches the light with all that metallic. Fleck, I liked it so much that I printed another one in black the way it captures the light as you rotate. It is simply stunning, so I knew I could get good-looking prints, but how about accuracy First thing I did to test that was to print out a set of these trapdoors for a project that you’ll see. Shortly on the channel, these needed to be absolutely spot-on because they needed to be able to slide back and forth in this enclosure and leave no gaps on the edges. Fortunately, they printed very well and they were very repeatable and very accurate. Another test. I did to test for torrenting. Was this to cut applicator, which you’ll also be seeing an upcoming video A good test for how well things fit like this, because if you let gravity close it, and if it slides down nicely, you can tell it’s a good fit. That is definitely a great fit and fit for my purpose. This low poly Fox was the longest print. I did when your print volume. Is this small and your print’s been this high? It’s hard to have a really really long print once again. This one turned out fantastic. The only discrepancy on the whole thing are some slightly inaccuracies, where the steep overhangs on the underside of the mouth. How about other materials well? They were a bit hit and miss. I started with some flexibles with this TPU and I printed this flexible bracelet and the only changes I made. Were turning off the heat of bed and raising the nozzle temperature to 235 degrees That means it was still printed at 100 millimeters per second and guess what it printed beautifully as well. There is some – stringing but the layers are well bonded and it’s very strong and flexible as well. This is not the softest TPU, But given I did this at full speed. I imagine it could print much softer ones by simply turning down the print speed onto PTG and ABS, and I did note that the bed is only rated to 60 degrees, but it struggles to hold even that while its printing now ptg, I would normally print with the bed at 80 degrees, so I did some lurking on the Facebook group for this printer, and I found that people were using various tricks to get this thing printing ptg, as well as abs, the main one being to switch the power brick to one that could handle more current and maintain a higher novel and bed temperature at the same time. I wanted to review the printer, absolutely stock, so I’d settled for whatever other techniques, which is to heat the bed up to 80 degrees and then let it drop to 50 degrees once the nozzle gets up to temp. My test print was this moon lamp with a Fame and a first dip, my toes in the water with this very tiny version and to my surprise that actually printed. Okay, I therefore decided to scale it up and guess what it jams now. I noticed during my PLA prints if I had the nozzle temperature above 190 I got heat. Crank the filament softened, and it jammed in the same way, therefore, for this print. I lowered my temperature from 230 to 225 inside it again and this time it failed as well, but at least it got a lot closer. It’s hard to know whether the temperature was too high or too low and how much it fluctuated to contribute to either of those outcomes. But interestingly enough. It was stuck really well to the bed next. I decided to try ABS. Once again! Having the bed 80 degrees and letting it lower down to 50 after the print started and it delaminated after a couple of minutes, the nozzle can definitely handle the higher temperature of ABS, but with this underpowered bed, it simply can’t maintain the temperature required to keep it from warping up and coming off, but for my summary and we’ll start with the pros. Firstly, this thing is very easy to use and user-friendly from the inclusion of factory auto bed leveling as well as the easy assembly and the pre-configured slicing profiles. This thing is definitely beginner friendly next to the print quality. And it’s the real star here. This thing turns out. Beautiful, beautiful prints, really consistent extrusion, really repeatable results and quite accurate as well. Next this thing is quite portable. It’s got this handle on the top, and it’s quite easy to move around because there’s no loose wiring anywhere and all you have to take with. It is the power brick to change it from room or even a completely different location. It’s fortunate to that as well as being tidy. It’s also robust, the entire frame is made out of metal, and it seems like it’s gonna last for a very long time. This thing is definitely one of the safer 3d printers that. I’ve reviewed the fact that it has a power brick. That’s only 12 volt and there’s no mains wiring anywhere to accidentally touch. It’s definitely safer than on other printers. All of the electronics are concealed nicely underneath and when I tested it for thermal runaway protection and actually had it as well as this message on the LCD screen and cut the power to the hot end. And that’s only the third printer. I’ve ever reviewed that has come with this feature working. Finally, the looks. Deltas are inherently cool. Just watching them is pretty memorizing, but this is also a pretty tidy looking machine and it’s got a nice crisp. LCD display as well onto the negatives and the elephant in the room is definitely the small build volume. It’s a lot lot smaller than something like an end of three. That’s not that much more expensive than this printer. This printer is definitely noisy. It doesn’t have Silent Stepper Motor drivers and the main cooling fan on the underside is quite loud as well. [MUSIC] It does PLA great did a great job at flexibles and can kind of do PT G, But you’d have to say overall. This thing is pretty much limited to printing in PLA and flexibles. If you want it to be consistent and reliable. Now I mentioned earlier that it’s meant to have onboard Wi-fi. I could not get that to work. I read some comments on their instruction or a Youtube video, saying that this all-metal panel is perhaps blocking an undersized antenna. I’m not sure, but I’m also not sure how valuable it would have been. So for me, It’s no great loss, my final gripe and probably the main one is how hard it is to separate prints now. The bottom of the print bed looks like its removable because of these clips, but it still actually plugged in underneath there for your access is limited and I found that I needed to use this tiny little flat scalpel That came with a MX or any printed tool set that I reviewed about a year ago and it was ideal for getting underneath the edge and carefully prying them off without damaging the bed. This is by far the least user-friendly aspect of using this mini. Delta, my final thoughts. This printer is very, very good at what it does well. It does extremely nice. PLA prints, fast, accurate and reliable as an example. In fact, I spent Easter. I’ve got this little Easter Egg here. It’s got a really nice fit, and when you open it up, you’ll see. There’s a perfect little r2d2 inside that nest’s really accurately. The egg was printed in place their follow tolerances on that a spot-on as well. It might be limited for more exotic materials, but this thing is going to be excellent for kids, schools or people who are new to the Hobby. The main aspect that goes against that is removing the prints, but I have seen online that you can get aftermarket the last beds for this, which means once it cools down, it will self release and you can simply lift off the parts. I’d say if you’re looking for a bargain to get into 3d printing and you can handle the small build volume, then go for it. This one definitely won’t. Let you down! Have you tried this printer before? Are you interested in it? Please leave your thoughts in the comments below. Thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification. 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