Infinity Gauntlet 3d Print | How I Made My 1:1 Replica Of The Infinity Gauntlet #3dprinting & #propmaking

PropsNstuff

Subscribe Here

Likes

666

Views

19,890

How I Made My 1:1 Replica Of The Infinity Gauntlet #3dprinting & #propmaking

Transcript:

[MUSIC] Hello again and welcome back to another video build and finally here. It is the final piece to complete my collection. The Soul Stone, aka the infinity gauntlet. It’s actually been about 18 months since I started this project and thus this will be my final infinity stone, and as to why I chose the gauntlet. Well, I’ve been back and forth several times as to what I can make to portray the soul stone or the vessel for it. A diorama of the mountain top with a red skull, maybe or caps briefcase at the end of end game, which has all the stones inside, but no, it was always going to be the infinity gauntlets, just with a bit of a twist. I’m actually making the soulstone the centerpiece. If you can recall the first teaser trailer for the Infinity War back in 2014 the stones were all placed different for what we’ve seen since and as it happens, The Soul Stone is the biggest one placed at the center of the mall, so that’s. What, I’m going with to start things off? I applied a couple of layers of filler primer, making things a bit easier to see what you got to work with. I knew that printing. At point 16 layer height would not be ideal for the z-gap. But I could fix that up. No problem, the not so great part was the wobbling layer shift all along the Z axis of the print. Eventually I found out it was a loose Screw on one of the Z rods. It was a quick fix, and I’ve had perfect prints ever since. But for this prop, it meant a whole lot of sanding. [MUSIC] And once I couldn’t take it any further using the power tools. It was time for the more tedious work to say it was a lot of sanding might be a bit of an understatement. But in the end, I got rid of all those print lines. I was left with a smooth finish. Actually, the final preparation was a bit of wet, sanding just because the metallic paints get a better result with a hard surface and just because the prop is so big and a bit of a hassle to work around on my table. It ended up getting a few scratches and blemishes, which I actually don’t mind. It only helps it look more authentic. The first step with any metallic paint is, of course, a black glossy base coat. Now, unfortunately, my glossy black paint had gone bad, and I was finding it hard to even get it through the airbrush even with a lot of thinner, so I tried switching brands only to discover. I was all but empty, and it’s not exactly like I can run down to the store where I live. It takes about 3-4 weeks with ebay so plan C. I mixed up equal parts of red, blue and yellow, which came as close to black as I could get. It and I was back on track. Since I had to change my plan for the painting process mixing up the black paint took away all the glossy finish, so it was obvious I had to apply a clear coat of aqua glass so to get a glossy finish. I was looking for. I’m really excited about this next. Step adding color for me. At least it’s always the point to which the prop really starts to come to life and what I was hoping to achieve is a sort of a metallic brass copper gold finish. Yeah, not exactly specific. Is it so to narrow it down? I did a lot of test pieces, and this is what I ended up with. First off was a mixture between the old clad brass and copper just to get a full coverage of the whole prop. [MUSIC] Then I applied a coat of Aqua Glass Next was to add some highlights, which I achieved by mixing in some alclad chrome and then, of course some shadows, which was just a light dust coat of all clads, dark aluminum And finally, I added some pure copper and pure brass. Separately, two different areas of the prop non-uniformed. Of course. I felt this gave the paint job. The final depth it needed well before the weathering that is, But first I turned to another part of this build the actual stones. I printed them out in clear resin Just so that I could color each one. Separately, you might have seen me use this technique in an earlier prop build, and it’s just as simple and easy as it looks. This is actually the first time I’ve bought the 3d files for a prop and although I love the look of the gauntlet, I wasn’t too happy about the stones, so I ended up making my own versions in Meshmixer. They were a bit more uniform and slightly bigger. There was one problem, though you could clearly see the round hole in the gauntlet through the stone, So I had to tint the back with some more copper paint. It seemed to solve the issue and they would still light up. Once I installed the Leds, that is now. There was a lot of room to put in an Arduino in this prop and maybe make some cool lighting effects. But for the time being, I was happy with just putting together a simple string of led lights. And did I mention? I wanted this to be a life-size replica. Yeah, it’s big and therefore I had to improvise a bit. One of the issues was how to fit a 10 millimeter led light centered in a much bigger hole. The thing I ended up doing was using small cut outs of a thin piece of plastic. Then I drilled a hole in it for the lights, and then I heat formed them to perfectly fit inside the gauntlet. The solution seemed to work out perfectly and the stones were such a tight fit on themselves that I didn’t have to use any kind of glue, which might come in handy if I ever want to swap them out for some reason. [MUSIC] [Music] It was all coming together nicely, but I had to get rid of that brand new fake sort of look. So next up was the weathering. You would think that for this particular prop, it would be best to use some oil paints, and you might be right about that, but I wanted to add some texture to it, and in my experience when using acrylic washes, which you mix up a bit thicker than you usually would do and then adding them in layers on top of layers on top of layers, it begins to leave behind a bit of a rough texture, which was exactly what I was looking for, But to achieve this, be sure to dry out the paints completely between the layers and gently using a heat. Gun always helps to speed up that process and as you can see the difference between the two parts. The transformation really is amazing, and it’s usually at this point where I go back in again with some subtle Oil paints, but first I needed to complete the second half [Music] [Music] once. I was done with the second half. It was time to use some oil paints just to get in some more details and maybe touch up on some highlights and shadows. I find that all the paints are especially good for blending in the transitions between them and then, Lastly, I applied yet another couple of layers with some high, glossy varnish. It really helped bring back the warmth in the colors, and it makes the metallic shine. Come back again! The next thing I had to do was make some sort of a base to display the piece and I just wasn’t too fond of the original one, so I went ahead and made one that I felt was more fitting to the gauntlet. I tried to make it spacious enough to hold the batteries and a switch and I wanted the shape to be a bit more masculine, but not with a lot of details to it. I wouldn’t want it to take away the focus from the main piece and making some sort of an adapter I was able to reuse. The cylindrical print supports. I removed earlier and then wrapping it in some Eva foam. It was a perfect fit for the gauntlet. I wasn’t too sure about the name tag, though, but I ended up using it anyways. I might change that at some point and continuing to work with some textures. I added some fake leather fabric to make it a bit more interesting. I left the whole base in a matte black. Finish just to get a bit more of a contrast to the gauntlet itself. [MUSIC] And I believe that was the last bit of work. I did on this prop. [MUSIC] So [Music] this prop build really was a long time coming and it was a lot of fun to finally make a full scale replica for myself. This means I’ve now got a full set of infinity stones. I’ll probably have to make a short show and tell video of the complete set, but for now that’s it for this video. I hope it was your liking. Feel free to leave a comment and maybe even a tip as to what can be my next big project between the smaller ones that is make sure to subscribe and hit that bell and I will try and share my next prop build with you. Thank you for watching.

Steam Engine 3d Printer | 3d Printing A Steam Engine

Transcript: Hey, what's up it's treaty and we have a new addition for engineering family. His name is three P or EEP. I think three P and he can almost build some really cool stuff. For example, after printing up the default cube. The first thing I printed out Was...

read more