How To Print From Thingiverse | How To Print A Thingiverse File On A 3d Printer (the Easy Way!)

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How To Print A Thingiverse File On A 3d Printer (the Easy Way!)

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Hey, guys, it’s! Rob at 3d prints cape today. We’re going to talk about how to print a file that you would get from a site like Thingiverse so there are a couple things You’re gonna need to start with the first one being a computer with a slicing software Like Keira. That’s tends to be the most popular. It’s one I use the most it’s free, so it’s always a good option. Are you gonna need your SD card? Most printers come with them, but for some reason, it yours did not just still gonna need to get one. Any size is fine. The files were gonna be. Printing are relatively small, a couple hundred and mega most typically for a gig. SD card running a couple box. You’re also going to need an SD card reader like this guy. Just a little USB SD card reader. This actually came with one of my printers, but you can pick them up on Amazon for a couple bucks, or you can get one of the USB 3 all-in-one espy or memory card readers for like, 15 20 bucks. Your choice there. You don’t need all of that for just taking object files from your computer over to the 3d printer, But if you wanted something like that for videos or anything that can be used for multi-purpose. I would go that route. Trying to transfer a multiple gig video on one of these will take forever so. Before we jump over to the computer and start walking through all the steps, make sure you guys smash that, like button and subscribe. It’ll help support this channel going forward. Alright, guys, so let’s jump over the Thingiverse and find a couple 3d objects that we like there are two things. I wanted to point out here first. One being that some of these files like this, baby. Yoda, here is going to be one 3d object file where something like this phone stand here might be more than one, so you’re gonna have to download all the files associated with that project, So if you go to the actual object that you’re looking for if you can see how many files are there in this case, it’s just an object and an SLT file, so it’s. Just one file that you would have to lets. Go ahead and download this guy. I’ll show you how to actually import this into cura in a second here. Alright, allow the download now jumping over to the phone. Stand here as you can see. You got a lot of parts. It looks like you got a base couples support pieces on the side. Some gears a couple bolts here. So if you actually look at the number of files, you’ll see that it comes to sixteen. You could download each one of these individually just by clicking the download link here or just go to download all if you know you’re gonna need all of them. I tend to just go to download all of them if I’m gonna be doing a project with multiple files like that. Alright, so now that we have the files that we’re going to be working with, we can go ahead and import those into cura, so I am going to be making a small assumption here. The assumption being that you have your base profiles set up If that’s not the case, I will be creating a video shortly and probably in the coming week or so on how to actually select your profile. I’m just using the generic end or 3/1 here for this video, so just select your nozzle size, which is all part of the profile, so I won’t drill into that too much, all right, so let’s start with the object with one file so here we’ve got the baby. Yoda object. We will just drag it on to the canvas, and then you can see it fits on my print bed. Just fine, plenty of room. If you have a smaller print surface or you’re trying to print multiple objects, you might want to shift things around. I’ll go into that a little bit more. When we try to actually do the phone stand, you can rotate it if you wanted to change the orientation or have the different a different area beyond the bottom your. Taurus, I tend to find the largest flat area and have that as my bottom. But in some cases, you might not want to do that. It just depends if that’s gonna be one of the areas, it’s going to be on display or anything like that, so it’s really just a preference. You can also turn them to go different ways. Most of this is really just and most of this is really important when you’re trying to get as much on a bill plate at a single time as possible. All right, so once you have your object on the build plate and everything is good to go in this case, it’s just going to be the one object. I’m doing a standard layer. Height of two millimeter infill density will just bump it to 30% I typically do 20 or 30% for display objects like this. If I’m doing anything that’s going to be more For structural purposes. I’ll take that to 70 or 80% and sometimes even 100% if I know it’s going to be put under a lot of stress and the infill pattern, I typically will do grid here. If you’re looking for just a standard good all-around and fill pattern grits gonna be the one to choose. If you’re trying to do some creative things or looking for something more strong, you might want to go to like gyroid. This one’s really cool with time lapse videos. If you guys haven’t seen the video. I did on all the infill patterns. Go ahead and check it out. I’ll link it in the description below, But Jared looks the coolest in my opinion, then. If you’re looking for something, that’ll be a little bit flexible. You’ll do cross or cross 3d or even concentric, but the main strong ones are going to be your octet, your gyroid and some of the cubic ones again. I cover all of that in the video link below. So if you’re interested, go ahead and check that out, all right, so will we get 30% in grid? So now that that’s done one of the things that I like to make sure is checked? Is the bill plate adhesion? I always will do skirt well. I can’t say always nine times out of ten. I’m doing skirt. There’s been very few occasions well. I have how to do it brim If I’m doing something with a very small base, and I need it a little bit more support. I would go to brim, but skirt just does a single layer around the outside of the object itself, and it helps get any. I would say import imperfections in the actual. Feed out, alright now that we’ve got that selected, We’ll go ahead and go to slice. This should only take 20-30 seconds tops most time. It’s less than that, all right, so what that’s doing is it’s creating a g-code file that the printer can actually read and it gives you rough estimates here of how long it’ll take to print based on the metrics for your printer and the amount of filament being used. I do not trust this time unless you have. It tuned for some of the more well known printers. If you have a more generic one. This has always been wrong for me. The filament usage has probably been plus or minus 10% in most of the cases. But if you just got a full spool or you’re just printing this for Hobby purposes or anything like that, it’s not too important to go ahead and just save this to your removable drive and you can choose to eject it so that the SD card is ready to go in this case. I’m not going to eject it because I’m going to go back over how to actually do the multiple files in a single or on a single bed, so let’s go ahead and close this out, all right, so I went ahead and relaunch secure, so we have a clean working area, so let’s go ahead and extract the files for the phone stand launch Explorer here, go to extract all that’s going to unzip all of it. Then we go to our files and here. We’ve got the sixteen objects that make up this prat. There’s a couple options. You can print each one of them individually. I hate doing that. You’re going to be spending a lot of time. Just doing the prep work, moving the SD card between the computer printer saving all of it, It’s just a waste of time you can print all of them together, assuming they fit on the build plate. If you’re using all the same settings, I would recommend going in that option. It’ll take longer to actually get everything set up initially, but the print will just start and keep going from there, or I’ve had to do this a couple times if you’re wanting to print these in different colors like what it was showing in the actual image on Thingiverse you’ll want to group these into two separate categories, one of them for the black filament and one of them for their orange, so you’ll have to have two separate prints going in order to achieve that one thing that’s not really relevant on this, but you will see with a lot of files that have or a lot of objects that have multiple files is you’ll have to glue them together here. They’re using the bolts to actually assemble it, but that’s not common so most of them you’ll print the individual parts. Then you have to glue them. I’ll be creating a video on how to do that coming up, all right, so let’s circle back to the actual files. Let’s just take the first five or so here’s a good example of the object that you’re going to want to flip around so that you get the best surface on the bottom as you can see here on this one, you have a really small build surface If you went this way and then a large bridge, this will not turn out well on this side. You have an even smaller build surface. It looks like the bolt. Here is okay so. I’ll just set it off to the side for now. This back panel will flip in a second and this guy here. I’m going to want to flip it so that this big base is on the bottom, so we’ll do that. By just selecting the object going over to rotate and then rotating it on the red axis here until it’s flat. All right, there we go now, that’s flat. I’ll move it out of the way for a second so well. Go back and select this alright now. We’ll do the same thing for the other three, so lets. Just go ahead and do that. Just rotate it. Then you might have to play with these a little bit to find the surface that you think is gonna work the best like. I said I try to get this part. That has the biggest flat base, which would be right there on this one, and then same with this guy and then on this, we’ll go ahead and rotate it as well like. I said mentioned you’re gonna have to play with it a little bit. It is a little bit finicky. You couldn’t see this from the angle. We were looking at, but this side is not completely flat, so we want it to be on the flat build surface. So this is good to go here. All three or all five of these objects should be ready. Just a small tip. The closer you get these together. The better, the actual printhead we’ll have less of a distance to travel. What that’ll do is Ultimately it will reduce the print time. It might not be by much, but if you’re printing larger objects or a bunch of objects, it can make a difference. All right, so lets. Just bring these guys in here. Kind of like this. Oh, and since we have this up another thing. I wanted to bring up since we’re in here. If you’re wanting to do any type of scale work or if you’re working with bolts like this, that are meant to feed into the actual parts, you might want to reduce the scaling a little bit for a bolt like this. I would typically just drop it 1% just to make sure you’re not going to have any issues getting it to fit. If your printer is Spot-on accurate, you won’t have to do this, but I’ve just it saved me a lot of time, just trying to work the parts after they’ve been printed, so I would recommend going that route, unless you know, for sure, your printer is capable of getting spot-on with the dimensions, and you could also use scaling for a couple different purposes, Main one being really just scaling the actual object You were looking for like I was printing a mask earlier and the default setting was just a little bit too big for the person I was printing it for, so I scaled it to 90% and it fit Just fine and I can’t tell. If this looks okay, all right, so once those are all ready, just go ahead and verify your layer height. Make sure that’s what you want. I typically prime everything at point two millimeter unless there’s a reason to change that, which is very infrequent and then we’ll do 30% grid here as well and verify that skirt is selected. Then go down to slice and again it’ll give you your estimated time and amount of filament use as you can see. This is was a lot less than what it was showing for, baby. Yoda, but that was a pretty dense object and it was quite tall in comparison. All right, so let’s go and save this guy’s file saved now this time. I’m gonna go ahead and eject it because I’ll be ready to go plug it in the printer. All right, now, let’s jump over to the printer. I’ll show you how to actually get these going. All right guys, now! That we’ve got the g-code file saved on the SD card lets. Go ahead and put it into the printer here once that’s inserted, go ahead and turn it on. You can also insert it when the printer is on. That’s not a big deal at all. It’s just going to boot up here for a second while we’re waiting. Make sure you guys go ahead and smash that, like button and subscribe to help support the channel. All right, so now that we’re up, we will go into our menu, Go down to print from SD, and then we can choose what we wanted the files that we wanted to play here, so let’s just say, baby. Yoda, I’ll choose that guy and it will start printing as you can see. It’s starting to heat up the bed. Then it will heat up the extruder. One thing to know is before you start this process. Make sure you have a level build plate. We’ll be making another video on how to actually do that. What this printer? It’s gonna be a little bit different just because it has. Auto leveling. But I just purchased in Endora 3 So I’ll show you how to actually level the build plates manually with that. Hopefully that’ll be here in the next couple days. Well, that’s pretty much. All there is to it now. It’ll just go through Its pre heating process. Then start the print, just keep an eye on the actual first couple layers and make sure that you have to go to Asia after that, the print should be able to just be left alone and Ferno will do. It’s thing, alright, that’s all I have for today. I’ll see you guys next time, thanks.