Hey, guys! I recently started 3d printing with ABS plastic, and I had a lot of trouble with parts spending off the build platform. And you can see here. This one should be a flat surface, but it’s apparently not that straight as you can see, and I tried a lot of things I found on the internet like using this genuine scotch blue tape to help the parts take on a platform, but that didn’t really work. I tried using hairspray That did work probably half the time, but, um, left all the gunk on the build platform and didn’t really make a nice serve. Leave a nice surface. Finish on the back of your parts. So this wasn’t a good solution either. And I think I’ve found the solution for now. That seems to work very well, and I might as well share it with you. So the trick is to use some acetone on your build platform. Just pour a little bit on it where your pot should print and then use a scrap piece of ABS plastic. It has to be ABS, but you probably have some faith prints if you’re watching this video and then use this piece to just spread the acetone, so what this does is it dissolves some of the ABS plastic on the build platform and the acetone bit rates away and you then have a really smooth surface with some ABS already on a platform that sticks really well to the platform, and then the first layer of your print can stick really well to this smooth sim layer of ABS plastic, so let’s just get some acetone. I’m using the syringe that fits around four milliliters of acetone, and now I just gently put the acetone on the build platform, and, yeah, it’s already not, that’s about half the volume of the syringe, so only about two milliliters, and now I use the scrap piece and just grab it on the build platform, basically, and as you may can see this, the liquid acetone now gets kind of gray, and it really gets sticky and it’s not liquid anymore. It’s more very more viscous, and, yeah, that’s basically it now. The platform is prepared and now I just switch on the 3d printer and start printing with the normal settings I use about. I use around 250 degrees for the extruder and the build platform is heated to around 130 degrees. Another trick which seems to work quite good, is using a box like this one to put over the 3d printer and what this does is it basically raises the temperature inside of the box so you can see the crba upper temperature is the ambient temperature here in cellar. It’s only around 50 degrees here because we’re in the winter and at the bottom, you see, the temperature inside of the box is already around 50 degrees C and what this does is it prevents your print from cooling down because you may have the heated print pad, but this is only good for the first few layers, so the rest of your print is really at ambient temperature right after it gets out of the nozzle and cools down, so you have this huge temperature difference between the bottom of your print, That’s on your heated print bed at around 130 degrees and the top of your prints that is just about ambient temperature, and this causes your printers to warm, and as you can see here, The Box really helps raising the ambient temperature inside of the 3d printer, and this helps preventing the part from bending, still announce one and a half hours later and the print is finished. And as you can see it, It looks really gunky on the build platform, but the print itself didn’t warp or anything, so we now just have to get it off the platform, which could be really hard because as you see, it really takes to the platform, so I definitely have to get my knife out and try and put it under the build platform and get it off that way. You finally so as you can see. The bottom surface really is absolutely straight as you can see here so perfect did work. Another time gonna have to clean this up a bit. See you next time you.