How To 3d Print Lithophane | 3d Printing The Perfect Lithophane Picture

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3d Printing The Perfect Lithophane Picture

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[MUSIC] [Music]! There is one thing one thing in particular that I love about 3d printing. And I love pizza. It doesn’t really matter. How complicated our project like some of this stuff. But this stuff, a pretty dank looking. Wolverine Model Airsoft gun the average Joe, that doesn’t really care. What you do will kind of look at you and say well, good stuff. Simon, good job. But the acted out. So that’s what you got to look for, and that’s when you bring out the big guns. At this point, their heads are going. You can probably tell just by looking at this picture that it works by varying the thickness, and there is a great software that lets you do this. Check this out. So this software. Lets you upload any photo. And it automatically generates the level of grace. It basically exaggerated s– the darker areas and makes the lighter areas more shallow, so taking a look at my skin. It’s more shallow than something like my hair, which is dark, so going back to the little feign by knowing this less light is able to pass through the darker hair and more light is able to pass through the skin, which is light. [MUSIC] Little friends are pretty funny. You know, you kind of sneak up on you. When you think you have the best settings, you could possibly have on your 3d printer. The little vein is there to knock it down again. You see, it’s very, very easy to make crap looking a little faint. It’s seems to be almost impossible to make a good-looking one. [MUSIC] I guess the profit producing taxes [Music]. There are a couple of things you have to do before you can start printing your little thing and buy a couple of things. I mean, a whole lot of things. There are mainly two softwares. You can use one is three. DP Rocks and the other one is let the FileMaker list. The FileMaker is a bit more modern. It does offer more ways of modifying your picture, which is great, but it’s a little bit more complicated, So I’m gonna stick with three DP Rocks, which I’ve already done a video about, so I’m just gonna go for the Golden Nuggets in this one. Let’s get Excelsior in here. I like outer curve. I tend to get better results. Using outer curve and it can stand by itself, which is nice, That’s a common question. Do I print it flat or do I print it vertically? The answer! Is you print it standing up? That tends to yield better results. A high number thickness will allow the software to cut up your picture in more levels of gray, which, in the end will make the picture look better number one. It will take longer time for the printer to print something that has a good thickness. It will also require more light from behind to backlit the picture and make it appear. Three millimeters works just fine. I like to use a border. That’s the frame around the picture. I use four millimeters. That seems to be the edge where, so that’s basically a overhang. So you gotta watch you. Can’t put a border that is much higher than four millimeters. If you haven’t done already jump over to image settings and flip it to positive image that should be default. A couple of key settings in the slicer first off. I’m using Angus modified Enders. Three profile works great. Push the infill all the way to 100% nothing important to see on the extruder side, the layer. Here’s where it gets interesting, so the primarily primary layer height can be set to. I wouldn’t go higher than point Two millimeters, and that’s still pretty fine. Point 16 That’s perfect. The outline parameter shells. Depending on the thickness of your little fan 5 is usually enough, but just bump this up all the way, so everything you print is is perimeters. You could also do hundred percent infill and just one parameter that works as well doesn’t doesn’t necessarily matter additions. I am using a skirt to keep the corners from warping. The infill is not important support. We don’t use temperature. I you don’t need a heated bed. You never need a heated bed for PLA. Cooling 75% works. Great g-code. That’s how my stuff looks. Scripts speeds, One of the most important settings not to go too fast. I’m using twenty two hundred millimeters per minute. Go to movement behavior and go to and cross-check avoid crossing out line for travel movements. That basically means that the nozzle will be forced to travel within the list of things. So you never have rested you from the nozzle catching on the outside of the perimeter. I’m sure I mean that’s. Basically 3d printing 101 If the listing looks like crap, you blame the printers. I do 87 percent of all my little things on the under three [Music] if you have an iPhone and like spending money for no particular reason, you may want to get the more exclusive filament, But I’m using the cheap white PLA that you can get in any store. I like doing the family photos on the clear white. This is the off-white. This is the clear white. The off-white gives kind of an ancient look to it. Something you may not want to have them on a family photo. [MUSIC] [Music]! I I really love with offense as you probably can tell so. I started a website, RC. Lancome, where people that do not have 3d printers, can order little things only available in Sweden. So for you? The 99% of the people watching that do not live in Sweden. This message was a complete waste of time with that being said. I hope you enjoy today’s. Video have an awesome day bye.