Hey, guys today. I’m going over something many makers out. There wonder how fast can I run my 3d printer? Many printer manufacturers advertise a speed that is either not really possible or will result in sub optimum print quality in this video. I’m gonna cover some basics. Some things you may not know and then finish it all off with some comparison prints. If you like to skip to any section in this video, the time stamps are listed on the screen. Now, first off the basics. Your 3d printer speed are controlled by three different aspects, print, speed, acceleration and jerk, of course, the larger the nozzle diameter and the larger the layer. Heights will allow your print to finish faster, but we are going to be going over printing with a point four millimeter nozzle at point two millimeter layer Heights in this particular video and going to be keeping everything not related to those three aspects, the same so we can get an equal comparison. Your print speed aside from things I will go over. Shortly is limited by your machine setup, including your extruder hot end and printer build quality. Most people will agree that a Bowden setup can print slightly faster with the same quality due to there, being less weight on the hot end carriage. But you will run into limitations on actual extrusion speeds earlier on Bowden versus direct that said, it seems that the extruder being used makes a much bigger difference than if you’re using Bowden or direct drive. Having an underpowered non geared extruder will make it so that it’s unable to feed material as fast as you want without experiencing extruder motor skips for these setups. I almost always suggest printing speeds that is around a hundred times nozzle diameter as in I suggest starting with 40 millimeters per second on a point four millimeter diameter nozzle that may be slow to many of you out there, but it’s a good starting point to make sure everything is working as it should. You could see just this on my inexpensive. Tina to small printer that has a non geared. Bowden setup. The print on the left is at forty millimeters per second, and then the one on the right is a hundred twenty millimeters per second with the acceleration and jerk turned up as well. The one on the left – a layer shift is an acceptable print while the one on the right is so under extruded that it’s almost artsy, It’s so under extruded because the extruder itself could not handle those facets of printing speeds, and it skipped so many times that the print came out as what you see on the screen. Now this is quite slow for most makers out there, but if you want to go faster. I suggest getting a geared extruder with a lot of torque, my favorite being the bond tech BMG dual drive Extruder. I figured that doing my test for this video using a bond tech BMG while allow me to push the limits as best as I can. All that said, just doubling the print speed will not cut the print time in half. That’s where acceleration and jerk come into play jerk. In my lack of engineering knowledge is essentially the acceleration of acceleration, But you print speeds will not actually be reached for the entirety of your print. If these two settings are not set higher as well and this is where one of the biggest limitations and fast printing comes into play in order to actually reach your print speeds. Your printer needs a space required to reach those speeds as well as the space required to decelerate. Your printer head will not just instantly reach your print speed. It will need to accelerate there if your print area is not large enough and/or your acceleration, speeds are not high enough. You will never actually reach your desired print speed and we can see this now on the screen and Keira all of the prints will be shown in a bit, but let’s compare the estimated print time for three different print speeds and accelerations. All of these benches are at a hundred and fifty percent scale and with five percent infill and point two millimeter layer. Heights on a point four millimeter nozzle, the first has 55 millimeters per second print speeds, 500 millimeters per second squared acceleration and the jerk of eleven millimeters per second all with those speeds, slightly slower for outer walls and initial layers. This print is estimated to take three hours and 23 minutes. We then bumped the speed up to 150 millimeters per second acceleration is 1,600 millimeters per second squared and the jerk to 22 millimeters per second, all roughly 2 to 3 times as fast. As the previous example, the estimated time is still 1 hour and 56 minutes, Even though the majority of these settings are nearly three times as fast, the print time is only reduced by 42% This is due to the limitations of the size of the model. The printer has to continually accelerate and decelerate and it does not print three times as fast. Due to this, we could see this even more when we increase the print speeds, all the way to 300 millimeters per second acceleration of 3000 millimeters per second and jerk to 50 millimeters per second. These are extremely fast numbers yet. The estimated print time is still an hour and 30 minutes. All settings are roughly 6 times as fast as the first example, yet the time is only reduced by 55% now. I would never print the part as fast as this if I wanted it to succeed and look good, but it’s to highlight the amount of time you save by printing fast is actually going to be diminishing the faster You go and now all of this. I have said, is not even going over the actual quality of your print. If your extruder and hotend combination can actually print at speeds of 150 millimeters per second with acceleration over 1500 Your print quality is without a doubt going to suffer. I am printing using a direct extruder with a bond tech BMG on a fairly modified CR 10 so your results will vary, especially when using a boat in setup with less weight on the carriage, while my extruder and hotend can actually push material out at those speeds without much issue, the frame of the machine itself can’t without compromising print quality as I go over in my reduced ghosting and 3d printing video, I cover four different ways. You can reduce the echo effect that some 3d prints have the first and foremost way to reduce ghosting is to reduce your acceleration and jerk without a frame that has the proper dampening on the X and y-axes. The faster you accelerate will increase this ghosting while I like my CR 10 The frame is extremely strong without any real dampening, even with feet added to this machine to disperse the rattling, accelerating at speeds of 1500 millimeters per second squared and over well without a doubt decrease the print quality When printing fast. Here’s exactly what my machine sounds like. This isn’t sped up. There is a ton of rattling going on, and I’m sure this isn’t great for the longevity of the printer That is definitely loud enough for me to hear clearly in the living room with the door closed and I do have sound dampeners on the Stepper Motors! My tables were shaking a lot and it was very odd. Seeing everything moved. That fast! Well, here is my first test where I print for. Ben, she’s scaled up to 150 percent at my standard 55 millimeters per second speed, all the way, up to 150 millimeters per second, with the acceleration and jerk speeds listed on screen below each print, while the hundred and 50 millimeters per second version definitely succeeded in printing, the imperfections and ghosting are drastically increased. This is definitely prevalent on the license plate where the slowest version’s plate is actually legible and it gets decreasing ly. So the faster we go. I feel as though I couldn’t. Get the lighting quite right with my camera to show off these defects, but I promise they are there now. If I were a printer manufacturer, I may think I’d be able to advertise print speeds of 150 millimeters per second and above since after all, the print did succeed, but as makers, we don’t want the print quality of the one all the way to the right and would likely be happy, giving up an hour of print time to increase the quality. Remember that the bench on the right printed only 45 percent faster than the one all the way to the left, even though speeds and accelerations were roughly tripled And now a scaled-up. Xyz q! I reprinted the fast version in an opaque color to see this better, but the one on the left is my standard print speeds and the one on the right is at my fastest speeds to be honest, The one on the right isn’t quite as bad as I thought it would be. But the increased amount of ghosting is noticeable. There’s a decent amount of echoing going on here, but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. This makes me think a confirmed faster than I had imagined. I would be able to be to be sure. My final Print Comparisons are going to be using This handsome Squidward bust designed by Kong and available over at our patreon link to down below. I chose this to see if we could tell the difference in detail as well as the fact that has a decent size to it, so it does print faster. You can see that my standard settings has this printing in twelve hours and 23 minutes with my very fast speeds printing in seven hours and 24 minutes. These fast settings are the same as the ones. I used in the Xyz Cube and fast Finchy definitely a decent amount of time saved since the model is fairly large, but you can once again see that the time saved is not linear to the amount you increase the speeds. I actually even attempted to print this at 300 millimeters per second with an acceleration of 3000 millimeters per second squared. But you could see on the screen. Now, what happened in that attempt? Even though the extruder was amazingly able to handle those speeds, the machine itself was not rattling far too much knocking supports over and getting so bad that the silicon sock gets rattled off so on the screen. Now are those two handsome? Squidward busts. I was able to print with their speeds listed below them. I believe that these prints will allow you to see why these faster speeds reduce the quality much more than the XYZ cube or the benches did. The defects are a lot more clear, while the fast version definitely completed. You can easily see artifacts and echoing left behind due to the increased rattling, while the XYZ cube wasn’t quite as noticeable, a higher detail. Print makes it more obvious once again. If I were a printer manufacturer, I may advertise print speeds of 150 millimeters per second, But I doubt many of you would be happy with the quality of the print on the right. These tests have actually made me think. I should bump up my speeds a bit, but going all the way to 150 millimeters per second with the acceleration and jerk, so that I used is far too extreme. Whenever I need as much detail as possible. I still reduce the speeds, finally remember that the nozzle diameter and layer Heights will determine these speeds as well printing a point. Two five millimeter diameter nozzle with 50 micron layer Heights will be extremely hard to print. Even at 50 millimeters per second, let alone 150 I was shown in this video. Well, here you go. Some torture tests of how fast an FTM 3d printer can go to conclude I will go over some of the main parts. Your print speed is going to be limited by the extruder and Hotend setup you are using. If using a non geared extruder with a low amount of torque, it’s going to be hard to print even over 50 millimeters per second without some skips and under extrusion, while Bowden machines have less weight on the carriage normally resulting in less ghosting for faster prints, they are also harder to extrude properly. At these higher speeds. Your print speed is also going to be limited by the acceleration jerk and size of your part. If you just double the printing speed, it will not cut the print time in half due to the fact, your printer head needs to accelerate and decelerate, a small print may never actually be able to reach your desired print speed due to this. Even if you increase your acceleration and jerk. Accordingly, the amount of time you save printing will diminish the faster you decide to print. Printing at 300 millimeters per second and 3000 millimeters per second squared accelerations will only result in a print that finishes slightly faster than one with these speeds and accelerations cut in half. The decrease in print time is not linear to the increased print speeds. Even if your extruder and hotend can handle the speed, the quality of your print, especially in terms of ghosting, will decrease the faster Your acceleration and jerk is. I’m hard-pressed to think of a machine that could print with the 3000 millimeters per second squared acceleration without decreasing your print quality. I may have had a successful print at 150 millimeters per second, but it doesn’t mean the time saved was proportional, nor doesn’t mean the quality is up to the standards. You would want in your machine, so unless you are extremely time pressed for a specific project you are making. I would always suggest erring on the side of going slower. I rarely print at speeds over 60 millimeters per second and I’m even less likely to print with accelerations of a thousand millimeters per second squared and above if you are able to achieve good quality prints above these numbers, I would love to hear from you In the comments down below. I will be sure to heart or pin anyone’s comments. Who does this with suggestions that they may have well? Thanks for watching guys. I will be back soon with further tutorials, fun prints and unique designs. I’ll see you all then. If you’re interested in 3d printing, don’t forget to check out my book 3d printing failure’s 2019 edition. This guy has been revamped and edited to include all of the 3d printing failures. I have ever experienced how to diagnose them and how to fix it. Check the description down below to grab yourself a copy.