Game Of Thrones 3d Models | Rob’s Model Shop – Episode 7 – “winterfell”

Rob Pauza

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Rob's Model Shop - Episode 7 - "winterfell"

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[MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] today we’re gonna be making a Winterfell model from the opening sequence of Game of Thrones we’ll start off using two Thingiverse models that are readily available. I really like one part of one and the other part of the other, so we’re just gonna be taking both of those and putting them together and then printing them out in 3d There’s the first model there’s the second [Music] since I printed these separately, I have to do a little trimming to make them fit together. [MUSIC] So time to mix up some epoxy while I have the epoxy mixed up, I’ll go ahead and use it as filler. I quickly realized there’s some parts on the 3d model that just weren’t quite right. So I decided I could do a little bit better job. I’ve taken those two objects and actually merged them together into one file. Then I fixed that one part and decided to add a few more extra details to it, and then I decided I’d add another layer of detail using some laser-cut acrylic, but I want to have modeled that, and then added some more trees to complete the scene. Then I thought, wouldn’t it? Be cool to add some lighting to this, so I modeled some boxes, which I later used as cutters and got them out. And, of course, it’s time to reprint. I’m printing on PLA plus using my Rays 3d into printer. I can’t remember exactly how long this took, but I think it was around 16 hours [Music] [Music] and here’s the first one. Let’s compare it with a second [Music] better [Music] and you can tell if that path detail is missing and also added some more details up there and then tunneled out all the walkways and on this other piece. I added some windows, so you can see the light shining through on the first piece, perfectly flat on the bottom and the second piece has some nice little tunnels for some lights. Here’s a quick demo of how it’ll work time to go ahead and start adding some lighting. I’m using some addressable LEDs, which will later be controlled with a microcontroller. And here’s my laser cut acrylic piece and on the underside. It gives me plenty of room to run my LEDs and wiring before I do any kind of painting. I want to go ahead and fill these holes and to do that. I use some Tamiya putty. This is just regular old modeling putty. Put it on with a toothpick, your finger or whatever. There’s really not a whole lot of cleanup to do, though it printed. Well, but I do want to touch up some of these places that painting isn’t going to fill. That’ll take the opportunity to go ahead and sand off any rough edges and while I have this out, rough up this acrylic piece so that it’ll glue to the other part well and also provide something for the primer to stick to. I have mix up some more glue [Music] [Music] as well. I’m gonna use my handy 3d printed clamps, which are also available on Thingiverse. I just added some rubber pads to mine. [MUSIC] Here’s a little tip for you. Leave your stir stick in the epoxy. And then that way you’ll know exactly when it cures. Obviously it’s not quite ready here. I went ahead and printed out some additional trees to put around the base. And once I figured out the placement of that is just a matter of doing some trim work and then doing a little bit of sanding [Music] and here we have the final model all glued together and ready to lay down some paint and to do that. I’m going to use some Tamiya fine surface primer. Take another little tip. Elevate your model, so there’s a nice barrier between the paint that gets on your model versus the paint on the cardboard. This is ultimately going to be metallic so first. I want to lay down some black primer and I’ll mix in a little metal medium with that as well as usual. I’m a fan of putting on several thin coats versus one thick one [Music] [Music] then I went ahead and sprayed on some metallic after that. Yeah, and here’s how it worked. [MUSIC] And I was out of regular clearcoat, so I just used some adhesion promoter, which is basically just a clear primer. It worked great now. It’s time to put on some paint using just a regular brush for that. I’ll be using Vallejo model colour, zhalong with metal, medium and or silver to anything. I’m mixing up [Music] [Music] [Music] if you remember the opening sequence of Game of Thrones and you’ll remember the colors all all kind of Grungy and and dirty [Music] [Music] [Music] let’s go ahead and put a base coat on this big tree using just a liner brush. I’m adding some details and this paint is very thin down at this point [Music] [Music] and now it’s time to paint about a hundred freakin trees [Music] [Music] next, I’m adding some almost pure silver here to add some highlights and that’ll be a good contrast of the kind of grungy industrial. Look that the rest of it has [Music] and I’m coming back with kind of a copper or bronze color and doing the same, just touching on a few details here and there being careful not to overdo it and I’m looking at some stills from the show to kind of get some reference. [MUSIC] adding the metallic really made a huge difference [Music] next up, it’s time to do some washes. I’m just using the exact same paints, but just watered down. These are acrylics by the way and adding a little bit of weathering detail here and there make this look a little bit more industrial [Music] and now it’s time to add some washes to all those flat areas. And if you remember the show opening, it’s really, really filthy, so the best way to do this is do it in multiple passes and it tends to dry just a little bit lighter than what you’re seeing when it goes down and it, so it’s always good to vary the color between washes. So you get a lot of very instrument. [MUSIC] [Music] now it’s time to put in some lights. I’m gonna be using some enamel wire. So it’s usually better to use a little bit higher temperature on your soldering iron. I like about 800 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure your iron tip is always nice and clean. Then put a little bit of solder to Tennant. The way I like to use. This enamel wire is put a little bead of solder and then melt off the enamel coating, and then it exposes the wire underneath and it’s tinned and ready to go And let’s go ahead and cut out some Leds [Music] I’ll be using some liquid flux. You don’t really have to use any of these, but it’s always a good idea, and it’s easy enough with a toothpick or something like that to just easily. Put a drop where you want it. Nice and quick! All you have to do is apply. Heat to the pad. Add a little bit of solder and just let it flow on there and you’ll have a nice bead ready to solder later. [music] [Music]! I was gonna do this anyway, but went ahead and put down some beads of epoxy to hold down. My LED strips just seemed like now is easier than later and there. I have everything soldered together. And the other side shows the finished paint job with all those washes. I’ll be using a 5 volt pro trinket from Adafruit to run these. My code is going to be using HSV vs. RGB color values. And so I made a little mixer here, so I can easily dial in the colors and then just see what numbers those are and put them in my code. [MUSIC] Once you get the hue dial, then like you want. All you have to do is crank up the value to increase the brightness without changing the color. It’s kind of handy. [MUSIC] It’s time to try it out, uploaded some code and then turn it on and lets. See what happens? [MUSIC] Now let’s add some additional code to make it randomly flicker kind of like candle lights [Music] and here’s the final model. Thanks so much for watching, be sure to subscribe and give me a like, and I will see you next time.