Ender 3 Control Board Upgrade | Skr Mini E3 – The Best Ender 3 Upgrade From Stock?

Teaching Tech

Subscribe Here

Likes

6,673

Views

290,026

Skr Mini E3 - The Best Ender 3 Upgrade From Stock?

Transcript:

This just might be the best mod that you can do for your standard into three. This is a 32-bit. Skr Mini III Mainboard [Music] [Music] I’ve been making a few videos about Mainboard upgrades lately, including the SK R Version 1.3 as well as Clipper, which uses a Raspberry Pi to take the heavy lifting off your standard mainboard. All of these options, take time and effort and this can be daunting for beginners. It’s probably no surprise that so many have gone for the silent offerings bunk reality, their plug-and-play, but they’re really not that cheap well. This little board here is more powerful, more expandable and less expensive lets. Start by taking a look at the specs. This is the SK, our mini from Big Tree Tech. It’s a tiny and affordable 32-bit mainboard, but it’s not the version that we’re interested in for this video. This is SK, our Mini III variant with III standing for Ender 3 It’s got the same 32-bit ARM processor and it’s got integrated. TMC 22:09 Stepper Motor Drivers, recently when I covered the new TMC Stepper Motor Drivers that included the 2200 nines and the 51 60s they’re expensive because they’re new, but as you can see, they can handle a really high current, which means when we’re running low current steppers like on the end of 3 They’re gonna run cool. They run stealth chop 2 which means they’re quiet as well as talky, and they’re smart Stepper motor drivers, which means we can have Diagnostics as well as sensorless homing. The big thing for us is the form factor with the exact same footprint, mounting holes and connectors as the original Cree allottee end of 3 Cr 10 and n25 board. There’s also an e3 dip version and that doesn’t have the Built-in 2209 stepper motor drivers instead like the SK, our version 1.3 It’s got the empty Stepper motor driver sockets and the special jumpers, so you can run drivers in UART or SPI mode very conveniently, there’s some great resources for both of these boards. We have clearly labeled wiring diagrams. PCB diagrams with all of the pins named if we need to tweak the firmware and Github pages with a lot of detail on the hardware, including a PDF manual schematics of all of the electronics components, the USB driver for the board, a pre-prepared version of Marlin 2.0 as well as all of the instructions for the changes. You need to make if you’re doing it yourself. The cheapest place to buy it is from the BQ official store on Aliexpress, where it’s just under $30 the same link will buy you. Both III versions just click the picture to select which one that you’re after the main voids arrive in rather a handsome box and inside, it always seems to be a gift rubber ducky. Apart from that, we have some heat sinks. We have a USB cable as well as the actual mainboard and inside this packet is also some jumpers here we can see a standard quality board version, one one three versus the III mini dip and 22:09 versions. It’s easier to see that dimensionally they are identical or the same mounting holes and all of the same plugs. The layout of the boards is also exactly the same, which makes it a really easy job to switch from one board to another. The 2209 drivers can be seen as these small, dark chips. There are some additional improvements, including the fuse and some additional input outputs, such as a BL touch and RGB Leds. Here’s the standard SKR mini board. It has the same amount of connectors. The layout is different, but most importantly, it doesn’t have the special jumpers to make connecting. Ui and SPI mote drivers very convenient. We are definitely spoilt for choice. And this range of SKR main boards are fast becoming the go-to option for affordable upgrades. So on paper. This thing looks very promising, requiring no changes to the electronics housing and no firmware changes. Either in this video. I’m going to focus on the e3 Mini with the Built-in TMC 2200 nodes. And that’s because it’s the most plug-and-play. So I guess it’s time to install it. Our first job is exposing the mainboard. And if you’ve got a standard n23 you need to remove the panel that covers it from the top If you have an ender 3 Pro it’s accessed by removing the panel from the bottom of the printer. If you’re using my all-in-one Universal remounted electronics case, simply undo 2 bolts, take off 2 caps and slide the whole lot out the back for easy access. I’ve made two diagrams That are really going to help you out, and I recommend printing them off for reference as you’re doing. This job. We’re basically going to unplug all of the wires from one and plug them straight in to the other in making my guides. I’ve changed between main boards more times that I’d like to admit, so it only takes me a little under eight minutes. If you’re a beginner, it might take you closer to fifteen to twenty minutes. Everything goes into exactly the same place apart from ing, the blue and yellow cable needs to go into. Ai for the part cooling fan. If you plug it into G, it’ll constantly on as that receives 24 volts permanently. Before you put the case back on, Don’t forget to install this little heat sinks on top of the stepper motor drivers that come with the mainboard. The only other thing you might consider doing is installing the driver for the printer from Github, But I didn’t even need to do this as Windows 10 recognized the device. I think most people would agree that this job is very manageable and the good news is once you get to this stage. Your installation is complete. It was time for the moment of truth and with everything connected. I went to the LCD menu to verify that everything was working. The part falling fan could be controlled as expected. The hot end and beds could both be heated and manual movements of each access worked too, but there was only one problem and that’s that all at home was not working. You can see here that it’s not moving towards the end stops because that already thinks they’re triggered, so I connected via terminal with pronterface and sent an m1 1-9 to verify that the end stops were incorrectly triggered. I downloaded the latest version of my land. 2.0 copied the base into 3 config files from Keith B and then applied the half dozen firmware steps from the big three tech Github after copying the firmware Doc Bi en file to the SD card and cycling the power. Everything was fixed now. My board has been in the mail for a long time, so I can only assume it was an earlier version of the firmware that wasn’t quite sorted yet. The big tree tech Github does have the correct N stop settings, so I think it’s safe to expect that. Any boards ship from this point forward will have the correct firmware if you’re still worried about buying this and having to tweak with the firmware nevermind in the description, I have a link to a free firm Web, a file that you simply need to Unzip, put an SD card and it will fix it completely now. Another limitation of the standard board is the lack of expandability. If you wanted to fit a BL touch to do it neatly, you have to spend money on a pin 27 board, one of the advantages of the SK. Our mini III is that that is much easier, so let’s see what it takes to fit a BL touch. Normally, the standard board on a ten to three doesn’t have any pins for a BL touch. So we need a pin 27 board. It hijacks the LCD cable and gives us our extra pin at the expense of the buzzer. Not only is this messy, but it’s an added cost to avoid cutting wires. The good news is if we look at the pin diagram for the SK. Our mini III, we can see that we have a servo port and that’s what we’re going to plug in the BL touch. We also have a second port designated for the black and white probe wires from the BL touch, but after reading on Github that it required more mucking around with the firmware. My recommendation is not to use this, but instead to reuse the standard. Zn stop plug. Here’s a diagram of exactly where the colors go in this orientation. It goes yellow brown and then read from top to bottom, the said. N Stop plug needs to have black on the top and white on the bottom. Please keep in mind that this might be different to the way your. BL touch cable is wired, so it might be necessary to use something pointy to pry up the lugs on the Dupont connectors and rearrange the wires to match the SK our mini e3 board. This also might be necessary for your black and white probe wire that plugs into the Z End stop in terms of firmware changes. It’s pretty much the same as any of my other. BL touch guides. Except for in configuration. H we need to search for N stop. Interrupts feature uncomment it to make it defined. The 32-bit processor of this board should be able to handle that extra load. I always set up my probing grid symmetrically. Because I feel it gives me better results too often. I see people complain that the BL touch only works properly on one side of the printer, but not the other. Fortunately with my setup. This is an issue! I’ve never run into as we have a new mainboard and there’s nothing stored in the Ephrem. Don’t forget to go to the LCD menu and say Zedd offset also don’t forget to go to the menu as well and store that to the EEPROM, so it’s persistent the next time you power on the printer for my first print. I like to start with a really simple shape like this X that fills up the bed and lets me dial in that first layer once. I’ve done this and save the value. I know that my future prince will be reliable and repeatable well. I hope you agree that that was quite straightforward and a couple of test prints verified that everything was working as you can see it with the TMC 22:09 X. There’s no surface artifacts and the quality is quite good, considering. This print was done at a hundred millimeters per second at the beginning of this video. I made a pretty big claim that this might be the best one you can do to an end of three, especially if it’s standard. So let me justify in my case. Firstly, the convenience of not needing a bootloader simply put the firmware file on the SD card and reboot. This also means you don’t need to spend money on a Uno or firmware flasher. This board will come with Mullin, 2.0 and that means all of the safety features such as thermal runaway protection are automatically enabled. The 32-bit processor is a lot more powerful than standard. This gives you freedom to use more features in Marlin or simply print at higher speeds. Reliably, we’ve seen that a BL touch is a lot easier to fit, but there’s also touchscreens, Leds and other accessories from BQ that are compatible with this board without soldering the TMC 2209 stepper motor drivers won’t suffer from surface artifacts. Saving you money on a set of TL smoother’s. The 2200 nines will also make your printer a lot quieter. Here’s a comparison [Music] finally. And maybe best of all. This board is easy to fit and very affordable. You get all of this for under us. $30 There, it is an affordable and easy upgrade that takes a lot of boxes. And if you still need more convincing, you’ll find down in the description links to various firmware files that I’ve set up, including the source. If you want to tinker or if you don’t already compiled firmware files that you simply whack on the SD card and restart the printer to enable as for this e3 mini dip version. I think it’s going to find its way into my monoprice. Mini Delta, along with some other, pretty interesting mods. Thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.