[MUSIC] Check, check one two, check one two. What’s up, Menards? Welcome back to the channel. I’m here in my garage. My workbench is a little bit of a mess, but that’s okay, because it’s a mess because I have a cool project to show you that I just finished, lets. Go ahead and get to it. I have here a 3d printed replica of the thorn hand cannon from Destiny. This is probably not gonna be in focus now. The 3d files for this hand Cannon were designed by a guy named Kirby Downey. And you can find it on my mini. Factory, I’ll post the link in the description below. Now, I took on this project, Steve from over at CBC and seek on tact. Admit asked me if I would like to take on this project for Jerry over on the Barclays Nerdgasm Channel, and he told me to choose a video game weapon that was from something popular and something Recent destiny isn’t extremely recent, but it is extremely popular and the sequel to destiny is coming out soon, so I thought why not do one of the really cool hand cannons from the first destiny game. This hand cannon has a sweet design. It’s it’s giant! I mean, this thing is like twelve inches long, but this hand cannon is pretty long too, but basically. I want to show you guys how I built this, so let’s go ahead and jump right into the build video and I will be back in a second [Music] so I knew from the beginning that I wanted to put electronics in this hand Cannon. I decided that I wanted to try to scavenge some of the Leds from an old Ghostbusters shoulder-mounted proton pack that I built years ago. Yes, I know it looks like crap, but I didn’t really know what I was doing. At the time it worked for the time being. Oh, good lord. That looks terrible anyways. My point is that. I wanted to use the Leds from this. It’s kind of scavenged them from it, so I tore it apart, and I took some of the electronics out of it and did some tests, and I decided that it was really really dull. I didn’t like how dull the light was. So my dumb brain didn’t do the math, and I was thinking, okay, if I take the 9-volt battery off of it and plug in battery pack of doubleas, then maybe it’ll be brighter. That was not the case so instead. I went to the local electronics store and I picked up a four pin, bright LED light that was green. It’s three and a half volts four volts and Max when you combine three double. A batteries it ends up being four and a half volts which was perfect for this LED light from that point forward. All I had to do was measure the size of the battery pack in the LED and open up the file of the 3d model by Kirby Downy. Yes, I’m using taker CAD here But to use a software that I was familiar with again. Don’t know a whole lot about fusion 360 and honestly using an actual CAD design software here would have made this process a lot easier. I still managed to get it done with in Tinkercad, which is a feat in and of itself. I do have this footage pretty sped up, but I will release a separate video of the full footage. Non sped up with commentary on my patreon for Patreon subscribers to watch seperately from that point. It was just a matter of 3d printing, the files. I have more beauty shots of the 3d printing process than I thought I did, so I’m just gonna keep back and show off a little bit. So enjoy the footage [Music] [Applause] after the prints are done, basically just like any 3d print. Removing all of the support material is the next step. This was pretty tedious, but thankfully. Kieras supports rip off pretty easily and have a very, very nice clean surface on the bottom after that is giving everything a sanding with some 80 grit sandpaper, then cleaning up the really rough edges with the belt, Sander and the drum sanding tool on the Dremel after that, I started cutting the pieces to kind of work with whatever switch system. I was planning on using figuring out where I wanted. The switch activation lever! I guess to actually hinge screwing that in testing it out, making sure that it worked [Music] making adjustments as needed in specific areas and mounting the switch itself. I always like to do a quick dry run test of the electronics to make sure they work before. I go any further with the build. Then I glue everything together using regular old CA super glue and then fill in the gaps with bondo after that sand down the bondo and give it a good coat of the automotive filler primer that works really good at filling in the 3d printed gaps. Sand that down. That’ll give you a good idea of where to add more bondo. Once it’s all one solid color like that, you see the low areas and the gaps that more bondo needs to be added, then. Sand that down yet again then. I started the actual painting process now. I used a primer base for most the most the painting that I did here. I used a dark kind of gunmetal gray primer for the main color taped off the areas that I didn’t want to paint over that. I wanted to say that color paints over it with a lighter gray color, for contrast, taped off those areas once that was dry and then covered the actual kind of clip area. Whatever the hell that’s called with a gold metallic color to add that accent that it needed after that is the super satisfying process of peeling all the tape off, giving it a satin clear coat then comes the typical weathering procedure of watering down black acrylic, brushing it on liberally, then wiping it off of all of these surface areas so that the acrylic stays and the little cracks and crevices and really makes it look dirty and grimy and old. I then went through the process of actually finally installing the electronics then. I totally forgot to take footage of it, but I did do a dry brush metallic acrylic weathering technique. It’s pretty simple and here are some shots of the finished hand Cannon. Man, that looks good. [MUSIC] [Music] all right, that was quite the build process. There were a lot of things that I learned a lot of things that I think went really, really well. But basically, every building process is also a learning process. So things that I like about how this went number one. I love how the paint job turned out. The paint turned out amazing, and I’m really, I’m not trying to toot my own horn too much. I’m just really happy with how this turned out number. Two, the printing went a lot faster than I thought it was going to. I calculated about 50 hours of printing, but I had four machines. I had four machines running at once. I had two of the H2S from seamy CNC. One of them had the bro stock arms on it. One of them had the stock arms on it, an old Orion from 2014 That is still running perfectly fine. It’s my my trusty. Orion, that’s also from see me. CNC and a row stock Max v3 So I had four machines running at once made the printing process. Go a lot faster! I started printing my first print like the moment I clicked print. Was it six oclock ish PM on Saturday and by noon on Sunday, I had everything printed and I had already started the build process some other things. I’m really happy with with how this turned out. I added lights to this so that it glows. You probably already saw that in the video, but basically, the original file, as it was designed by Kirby Downy had the chamber or whatever. I don’t know much about guns, But the spinny bit in the middle that holds the the boom pellet that was supposed to be able to slide out and then spin. And then you were able to print a little slug. That went in there. I made this solid because this side is solid. But on this side, I have a removable panel. That’s held on with a magnet with a battery pack in there trigger. The trigger is stationary, but the hammer on the back here is hooked up is mechanically aligned with the switch. So when you pull the hammer back, the lights turn on now. They’re probably they’re probably kind of hard to see, but you can. You can’t see them when I turn them on you. Pull the hammer back and the lights turn on things. I learned things I don’t like that. I learned one the hole that I made on the inside of the model for the battery box ended up being just a smidge too small by, like 2 or 3 millimeters. I could have reprinted the part, but I was on a very, very quick time restraint to get this done in time. I went ahead and just dremeled it out, Not the most ideal. I don’t like doing that. My mindset with 3d printing is its 3d printing. You shouldn’t have to take a dremel to it, usually when I would run into a situation like this, I would just redesign the part and then 3d print a new one because the cost of materials is pretty inexpensive and it doesn’t look too bad. You can barely tell that it’s. Dremel, and it doesn’t really matter because most of the time the battery compartment has gonna be on Anyways. Something something else that I learned was that the LED light is not that bright, even though I bought a high, bright licit, a high brightness 4 Volt LED if I were to do that differently, I would have mounted three separate Leds across all three of the little orbs, the green orbs, that’s all. I have to complain about really other than that. I’m happy with how this turned out. Definitely keep an eye on the channel. I’ll be doing more builds like this, Probably in the future. Don’t know when don’t know what if you’d like to see me. Do something like this. Definitely shout out in the comments below of what you’d like me to replicate using 3d printing. I’ve got a few other projects that are in the works. I’ve got a few other projects that I would like to do but getting suggestions from you. People are always the best. Thanks, everybody for watching. Thanks for the feedback and Ill. See you in the Next Video, You [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music].