Transcript:
In this video? I’m going to show you how to serve you here. Our software for printing with the NA8 and we’re starting right now. Hello, my name is Daniel. Welcome to the Crosslink Channel. I’d like to help you being more successful than 3d printing, and if you hear for the first time, please consider subscribing so you don’t miss anything. So this video is a direct reaction to one of your comments and this shows you can really have some impact on this channel. So if you have any requests ideas for content that I should produce for you, please put it in a comment section of my videos, so we’re gonna start right in to cure now, and I’m gonna walk you through. The steps needed for the A need a to be able to be used with Europe. Okay, so the first thing that you need to do when you start cure for the first time, you’re probably getting a dialog to add a new filter. If you don’t get the style or because you might have another printer already installed, you will need to go to this menu here and then say, add printer in those add printer menu. I’m going to do add an on network printer, and then I’m going down to the custom section. I’m selecting custom FFF printer, and I need to make sure that I can see this little printer name field and here we can enter the weight in the name for our printer. So let’s add the printer name. Ain’t it a 8 here and then select the? Add button. So the next dialog is basically the Machine settings for the 88 for your printer and we’re doing some very basic default settings here. You know, the printer has some dimensions, so we know that the? Ada 8 has 220 by 220 millimeters off heat bed size, and the printing height is actually 240 millimeters. The built plate is a rectangular built a or region. That Center is something that you shouldn’t enable because all printer’s origin is 0 0 at the front left corner, so leave that unchecked. Then we have a heated pad which you should check. We are using the Marlin G-code flavor, which is fine, Let’s make this dialogue a little bit wider, so we can see the rest, then the printhead settings. I’m actually leaving unchanged. The Gumtree hate. I’m leaving unchanged. I have one extruder. Then we have to start at the end G Code section. These default values are very, very basic day. They normally work, but I have made some changes because I actually want to prime the extruder a little bit differently. So if you want to use my settings, I’m putting my start and NG codes in the description of this video, so let’s leave that unchanged for now, and then we can go to the Extruder section. Here we go and we have to make some changes, For example, the material size is 1.75 millimeters. That’s a mistake that some people make, and then they get under extrusion because they have selected a to large material size. Well, and anything else you can basically leave as it is so now we have confirmed to add this printer to our printer list. The next thing we want to change is some of the default print settings and in Cura 4.1 This is a little bit different than in the previous versions, so we can actually open this menu here. Which is the printer settings and we can add some custom settings here, so it should make sure that we select some profile first, so let’s say we want to do some draft quality, and then we should make sure that we are actually selecting the right values here, so for my case. I’m normally using something between 10 and 20% infill then the material printing temperature. Yeah, that’s depending on the material, of course for me. I’m using mostly PLA and 200 degrees is fine for me. They’re built by temperature. I would say something between 50 and 60 degrees Celsius is perfectly fine with 60 degrees. You might be running into some warping issues already, so I would rather go with a little bit of a lower temperature, so 50 degrees is normally perfect for me. Then we have A retraction enabled and rejection settings are normally fine, but you can change them later. French speed 60 millimeter per second is also the right thing for the Aeneid a8 You can go faster, but you will get sort of the best results with 60 millimeters and below. Then we have the cooling settings that’s also enabled. That’s that’s okay. So support material is normally not needed. Unless you have something that’s really creating some overhangs, so I’m not enabling that by default. Those plate adhesion. Well, that depends very much what you actually need. If you have parts that easily warp, that are maybe a little bit thinner than normal, and maybe you will see some warping yen. You might add some build plate adhesion. I’m normally selecting the skirt because I want to have the extruder primed in the first rounds of printing, so I really want to make sure that nothing is stuck in the extruder and it really starts printing. Sometimes I have the effect that when this prints actually starts the first 10 centimetres, there’s nothing coming out of the nozzle, and then it starts extruding at some point, so the skirt helps a little bit with that. It starts extruding on the outside of the print, and then when it actually goes to print the actual print, it’s already extruding, and that’s something that I normally do well, and that’s basically it there is you can you can normally leave the settings as they are and with these kind of default settings, you should be having a good starting point at least with PLA printing and using cura. So the next thing you might want to do with your new friend. The setup is to test out an initial print. I’m going to thingiversecom where you can find lots of lots of sample print models and you can just search for something like Benji, which is normally the the benchmark test for your printer to see if there’s any issues, so I would go here. And, for example, use this kind of Benji file and then download the STL file and after downloading the STL file, I will open it in Tura. So let’s switch over to Keira and then go to the file menu and open from the Downloads menu. They add Iron Throne Vinci, and that puts the Banshee on top of the build plate. So this is the default. You can now rotate the object, but we’re just want to get started with printing, so lets. Make sure we can see the slicer button, which is here and when you hit that slice button, it gets converted into the mall and g-code. That’s needed to be printed on your printer, so we gonna hit slice, okay, So the slicing is done. The next thing is to use an SD card and copy the g-code file to that SD card, so you can say safe to file and then copy that little g-code file onto your SD card, so I’ve selected to print this file from the printer menu. It’s normally done by using the ini’t, SD card menu and then opening that file and it should start with you right away, that’s all. I have to say about how to use her obviously into 8th as a very first setup, and I hope you were successful. If not, go to the comments section, ask me questions. I hope to see you next time on this channel for another video about 3d printing in the meanwhile, have fun 3d printing. See you next time? [MUSIC] [Music]!