Creality Cr-10 S5 Upgrades | Creality Cr 10 S5 3d Printer Upgrades, Z Axis Rods, Tl Smoothers, Petsfang, And Observations

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Creality Cr 10 S5 3d Printer Upgrades, Z Axis Rods, Tl Smoothers, Petsfang, And Observations

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Today I will share with you. Some modifications. I tried on my CR 10 S5 This 3D printer is huge and it requires very slow print speeds to stay even. Stay tuned for unexpected results obtained or rather other problems. While trying to modify this printer and improve it, But apparently I have luck. Just make things worse. So first of all, I got the z-axi’s from the small 3D machines I. You want to support them because they mostly give a lot of software and firmware to free. And the first thing I did on this 3D printer is just update the firmware. The bed leveling process is automatically improved for it before that Creality CR 10 S5 original firmware that the 3D printer came with will fail when I used to do the bed net leveling and it’s a manual process for that as you can see, I tapping these V slot rails, but I was weak. Did not take into account. The screws that connect the rails to the V slot. So I kind of ruined the tab eventually I. He was able to install Z-axi’s support rods for large or long’s 3D printing, Eliminate vibration on top. Now I decided to install TLs smoothers. Improve any possibility of exterior wall printing better than with stocks Motherboard. And when I open the power supply, I think the control casings have seen That Motherboard and Stepper Motor controllers. They’re soldered on Motherboard. So if you want to upgrade the ones you have to upgrade Motherboard, I am not sure if anyone else tried some kind of soldering on top Or do any adjustments, so I’m not sure. To me, it seems you just have to get on another motherboard. Also as you can see, I am installing the TL smoothers and I’m using their own bags. The anti-static bags to cover them just in case to Prevent any possible shorting. Because I wasn’t ready to kind of put them in a certain spot, so I just will try to get them in one side, so they don’t prevent the air moving through the box. After I installed the TL Smoothers, I didn’t see any improvement into the 3d prints. Nor did I do any test to make differences in the improvement. I had the TL smoothers from my previous 3D printer, and I just installed them believing that they’ll make some difference. I think they may have contributed to a tiny reduction in the noise as you can see right now or here rather. So as you heard the sounds, they’re not to me. They seem almost as similar as when I got the printer. Maybe a little bit lower, but this is loud. They’re unbelievably loud to me. They’re very annoying. If you print something in the room like you, can’t you, you will hear it. So what I decided to do for this 3d printer when it comes to bed leveling is just print a very large brim from, like 20 or 30 lines, and then just adjust the knobs on the fly while is printing the brim before it gets to the 3d part. You need 3d printing. And I found that this method works best for me. I mean, I could get the BL touch and all that, but then I have to modify it, and it seems with my luck. I can rarely get them to work better than when they come from the manufacturer with all the improvements. And I figured out that you need a kit like you need to have a kit with the any 3d printer like a kit of screws and tools and spare parts that you should have on hand, and if you get into 3d printing for the first time, I think a kit. It’s in order to be purchased with the first 3d printer because you would quickly want to modify things and you’ll you won’t find the screws or the necessary parts to improve it. So as you can see, I printed a very large vase and this is just the first half of the vase and what you’re seeing right now. It’s 6400 times. Faster than the normal video Just to go through, and I printed this vase for five days, and I printed 60 millimeters per second and all the speeds were 60 millimeters per second travel speed. The inner, the outer wall, everything. But I lowered the speed from the knob on the 3d printer because the quality was just horrendous. Taking it off, I need to use a hammer and a chisel and it was a lot of work was like half our work to take it off. And I even chipped the glass a Little bit and from my latest investigations or studies, it seems like. This glass adds a lot of mass to the bed, and you can’t use large speeds to print something on this 3d printer. And this should be led like at very low speeds. And now I’m trying to install the pet Fang with the stock base, and this is a bad idea to just try to take the six prong connector apart. I just wasted time there. If you have the patience to do it and solder it back together. Yeah, you can, but if if you don’t have the patience, don’t even try to attempt it. Just cut the wire to the fan, the stock fan and then connect the 5150s if you want to use the PetsFang. However, I am disappointed with the PetsFang because most of the air blows behind the nozzle not directly underneath. So I had to modify the existing PetsFang design, and I posted it on Thingiverse but I got flagged by the PetsFang team, saying that this is not open source. And you can modify the user for yourself, but you can’t publish it. So I took it down immediately. And I guess you guys can modify it on your own. Put it in blender, cut a few notches in there and try to point it directly towards the nozzle to divert some of the air on the PetsFang. But after I installed the PetsFang, I started having problems with, like severe problems with under Extrusions. I thought installing the PetsFang is going to improve the cooling and anything. But because I kind of loosened up the Bowden tube, I think that’s when I started having under Extrusion problems, so I Couldn’t fix that at all. So I decided to make it into a direct extruder 3d printer. But by the time I made that this video was already shot and you’re seeing like the improvements and I hope you’re gonna draw from my experience. If you get this large 3d printer or any large 3d printer, you may not want to keep it as a non direct extruder. I know the name of the other one like the Bowden tube. But the point is, I think it’s the vacuum valves that connect the Bowden Tube. Those are at fault in this model. I found out a little later and I don’t have them to test that theory. And even though I installed a Capricorn Tube, it would still give me a lot of headaches and I just transformed this into a direct extruder printer and it printed quite well as a direct extruder. And the PetsFang is not really great in this situation. Maybe there’s a pet Fang with the direct extruder modular thingy, But the one I used was Hero and with that opportunity. I also printed my first petg. It was the first print actually failed, and I changed the Z hop and the extraction, and I just 3d printed a Hundred percent infill into the mechanism and it successfully printed. And then I move the extruder to direct extruder And I moved the Stepper Motor. And then that was a problem with the cables and let me tell you. This printer is not the greatest printer to work with. Because you have to extend the cables. You have to do a lot of modifications when you start modifying the stock. So honestly, I also bought another stock extruder or 3d head completely stock so rather than just modifying the current head. If I run into a problems, I just gonna. I’m just gonna put back to the stock head, and I have the Extruder Motors to use them rather than just messing around. Because I feel that. Sometimes you do this, but you run into other problems. And it is quite nice having two print heads and you can always go back and undo the changes. There you may do and you may do them wrong, so that’s why. I got the second 3d printing head. So stay tuned for the next video, with more updates on the Creality CR 10 s5 3D Printer.