Creality Cr-10 S5 Max | Cr-10 Max Review – Is Bigger Better?

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Cr-10 Max Review - Is Bigger Better?

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I finally finished my review of the CR 10 Max, and I’ve made some pretty huge things. But I’ve also had some issues [Music] [Music]! This is the CR 10 Max bike reality. It’s the second biggest 3d printer they make after the CI. 10 s5 Although it’s a lot newer and a lot more polished with some great features, it’s identical in many components to the CI. 10 S Pro, except bigger a while back, I did an unboxing and first impressions video on this printer with some mixed results. I’ve put a ton more time into it since then, but before we check out my test prints, let’s start by looking over the specs. And the price here is the Co 10 Max on the Cree ality official Web store We can see it has a build volume of 450 squared with a height of four hundred and seventy millimeters. The other big thing is the price coming in at 1000 US dollars. At least we do have some shipping options, including being ship from the USA. If that’s where you live, it’s got some extra bracing at the front to stiffen up the frame. It has a genuine. BL touch for automatic bed leveling it comes with multiple sizes of nozzle and overall, it’s pretty robust with double belts with that enormous bed. It’s probably a good thing that it has dual power suppliers, one of them dedicated just to heating like the C. Our tennis pro. It also has genuine. Capricorn PTFE tube and a genuine bond. Tec Extruder. Other perks are filament run-out detection, power loss, recovery and dual Z-axis, Stepper motor and threaded rods, despite being beastly, it’s quite sophisticated with the all-in-one design and large color touchscreen on the front, so a lot of print art, but also a lot of money. So how did it go? We’ll, spoiler alert. I got some awesome results, but I also had some pretty significant issues. This printer is definitely not for beginners, but it is capable of some good things. Let’s examine why in the first video. I printed a demo file from the SD card as well as a glider. The glider wasn’t bad, considering the fact I printed it at 200% speed. So I was happy with that, but I did want to try the head again at normal speed to see the type of quality. I could get. I was pretty baffled when the quality came much worse. When I checked the machine. I found some loose bolts on the hot end assembly. I then went over the machine and checked for loose bolts everywhere else, and I also took the chance to trim the tape to alleviate the strain relief on the BL touch wiring. I printed a simple hollow cylinder, not in bars mode and found it to be very nice and smooth after this. I design and printed this. It’s a custom keyboard mount to go next to a gaming steering wheel. The top cart works beautifully with the keyboard clipping in and out quickly. You can see that the base, however, has been stuck back together with a 3d pen and that’s because the Bowden Tube coupler failed at the extruder, leaving little bits of metal where the teeth snapped inside. I installed a new part clipped back some damaged. Ptfe tube and that part of the printer was perfectly fine After that around this time, Crowley emailed me responding to my request to provide me firmware with working thermal runaway protection. I updated the firmware using the same process as the co tennis pro following my own guide, which is linked in the video description below with this essential safety feature verified as working. I printed my final test object with the stock zero point, four millimeter nozzle And that, of course, was a 3d Benji, this is a fairly good one with some cooling issues underneath the front and some layer chains, it’s courtesy of simplified 3d but not much else wrong, but this printer is big right, and you get it because you want to print big things. Therefore, this was the time that I installed the included 0.8 millimetre nozzle. I started by making some comparative benches. This time was 0.4 millimetre layer height after a few failures. I got a pretty average one. This big nozzle is just not suited to these tiny little things, but I wanted to do super large prints and therefore had it enough to move on with next up. Was this enormous bars and I scaled it up to fill almost the entire build dimensions of the printer. The next morning I came into my room and found it complete and the translucent green. X-ray Dpla looks stunning. I did find, however, that the part was very brittle under a light. The extrusion looks nice and even but the print is still very weak. You can see when I apply pressure. These cracks form easily. The top actually ended up breaking off and the is holding on by a thread as well and that’s unusual because normally. Vars mode with a big fat nozzle produces really strong results. The next print was costly. I thought I’d make the most of the large bed and print my endure. Five case in one go rather than four pieces like you’d have to on the end of five. I watched most of the first lady go down. But in the morning, I returned to find spaghetti and some other disaster. The silicon sock from the hot in was detached and worst of all. I found that the pin from the bail touch had snapped off. I took the time to replace it for a sparrow head, and I tested that The new bail touch was working and noted the cable dangling precariously low close to where the prints would be pushing on. I started this beauty here. And this is a t-rex skull and jaw scaled up to 300% sides. Unfortunately, on the first couple of attempts, it made spaghetti too, But even more worrying was the clicking extruder that was seemingly producing under extrusion because the resultant parts were stupidly weak and crumbled with a bit of light pressure. This is pretty similar to the weakness in this. Vaz mode print. So at this stage, I contacted reality and asked them. If they had any ideas, they suggested tuning the V refs for the super motor drivers, so I raise the values to match their recommendations. And at this point, I made a raft of other. Slicer changes on your screen now is a summary, but I’ll also have my FFF simplified 3d file for download for free in the video description, with all of these changes to my slicing profile, plus the increase V reps. I finally had some success when printing the top half due to the size of the thing I had to use filament run-out detection twice. It worked fairly well, but the steppers are not locked in when you’re doing the change, so make sure you don’t bump anything or you’ll introduce layer shifts. It’s also worth noting that the bed does cool down while it’s waiting for you to change the filament and therefore I wouldn’t recommend teaching this surface to glass or anything else that self releases once it’s cool, The final result is absolutely epic. Roma far but suffers from some banding up close. My slicer change of one millimeter of Zed hop. Make sure that the nozzle doesn’t knock any parts loose, but it’s not ideal in avoiding banding on the vertical surfaces. It’s still a really cool print and one. I think deserves some future attention in an upcoming video to fix it up and get it all perfect next up. I tested this Wolverine Claws. They turned out pretty good, and I did them on this printer just to show how easily things fit on this bed that might need to be split into multiple print jobs on other printers. The zero point eight millimeter nozzle is not really well suited to it, but it still got the job done next. I tried this massively scaled up extendable pirate sword in my slicing profile. I didn’t have their attractions tuned and the resulting lump fused the pieces together. It’s such a shame, too, because I printed these before, and they’re meant to work like this on a sword. This big that would have been absolutely epic. My final print was really, really special because it was modeled in blender for me by fellow. Aussie youtuber Malcolm 3d This video is linked in the description and has a super satisfying time-lapse. The STL is also a link for free there too. I figured I needed my own time lapse to do it. Justice, so I hooked up octoprint to this printer and got it going. The octal lapse was going well, but later that night. I realized I’d made an error and that the filament run out sensor wouldn’t work while I was printing from Octoprint. I therefore had to eyeball the cutoff point and reprint the last section, dropping it below the bed surface in simplified 3d to cut off what I already had. I’ve performed a tiny bit of clean-up on it. And at this stage, the two halves are only hot glued together. This printer is going to be great for cosplay and items like that so. I suppose the test is whether it fits on my head properly. Thank you, Mark in 3d It’s a really cool design. I appreciate you doing it for me, and I’m definitely gonna follow up and fix up this print as well. So that’s the good, the bad and the ugly for the CR 10 Max. So now it’s time for my summary, and I think it’s pretty much simple if you compare the price to the list of failures I had on this printer. I think it’s a completely reasonable position to state that. This printer is a ripoff and not worth your time. I think it’s fair to say that Cory Ality quality control can be a little bit hit and miss both went into threes and my end of 5 arrived in really good condition and printed great out of the box. I see a tennis pro was a little bit average, and this one not so good. You might get a great one, but it wouldn’t be right for me to speculate. I can only review what’s in front of me. It is fair, however, to point out that the base hardware is actually really good. It has quality parts like the large touchscreen and the interface is really slick to the genuine twin. Meanwhile, power supplies get the huge bed up to temperature. 70 degrees in around 5 minutes has a genuine. BL touch, genuine Capricorn tube and genuine bond. Tec extruder gears. Despite the obvious QC issues, you have to give Criolla D credit for attempting to put a printer together with a really nice spec. I spent a large amount of time with this printer tuning a slicing profile for the large nozzle because one wasn’t included. If one was, I might have spent the same amount of time tweaking it to perfection. The thing is that if you want a printer this size, the only cheaper option is a Cree, Ala. Tcr 10 s5 which will still need a range of mods to bring it up to this level of Polish like my experiences with this printer. That type of journey is not really suited to beginners, But I’m not a beginner, and that means I still really like this printer because it allows me to make things that I just can’t make with any of the other printers in this room. I have to admit, I also love the novelty of just how excessively large it is. If you do end up buying one of these. Just make sure you’re ready for the investment that it involves. Ask yourself! Do you have enough room to store it? Do you have enough filament? Because all of these large prints were over a kilogram each? Can you afford for the failures when the stakes are so high? Can you even afford the filament for the amount of support material? You need when you do such big prints. If the answer to all of those questions is a yes, and you’re confident, experienced and patient. Then you might be able to produce great things with this printer. I imagine this printer might be a little bit divisive, and I’m very keen to hear your thoughts down in the comments below. That’s it for now, so thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.

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