Cr-10 Heated Bed Upgrade | Creality Cr10s Ultimate Heat-bed Upgrade! 750w Heater Installed

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Creality Cr10s Ultimate Heat-bed Upgrade! 750w Heater Installed


Hey, guys, in this video. I’m gonna show you how to upgrade my CR 10s to reach 135 degrees in 3 minutes and 17 seconds. [MUSIC] To do this awesome upgrade we’re gonna need the solid state relay installation material and 750 watt to Congress and 20 Volt AC powered silicon heater first. I take off the paperclip holding a glass plate or in my case, Ultrabass and I move it on the side. Then we need to unscrew the four screws holding the aluminium heated bed. Then I take off all four Springs, then I unplug AC power cord and heat bed plug cable next. We need to remove this heat resistant tape who is holding the thermistor underneath. We need a clean surface on this aluminum heel bed next step. We need to unsolder this 12-volt. DC. Powered wires because we’re not going to use it. The silicon here that already comes with the wires pre-attached. So we’re gonna use that one here, just cleaning the rest of the team A little bit alcohol. I cleaned the whole heated bed. And now it’s time to install the silicon heater. It’s holding with a 3m tape, so we need to peel off this first layer And since this silicone heater is a flexible. I put it on the table and then I just lower the aluminum plate in the center. Then I apply the pressure from the center to lightest to spread the glue on the tape. This will make 3m tape bond much better across the whole surface. The silicon heater is actually made from the CR 10 or Seer 10 s. So it has the holes already drilled where the screws are, so it’s a pretty nice fit, and now we need to open the control box. There is a four screws holding the power supply on the side and there is a five screws on the bottom. We need to take those out, all right, the bottom just slides down, and now we need to remove the power supply and let me just take off this spool holder, and now we need to find a place where we can install the relay and I found these two holes on power supply match perfectly here. You can use some double side tape to hold this relay in a place, but I’m gonna apply these two screws very short one, but be very careful here, because if the screws are too long, you can short out the power supply next. We need to disassemble this heated bed. Plug inside the heated bed plug. We’re gonna find the four wires. Black and red wire are four heated bed and two white one are four thermistor. We need to unsolder them then. I measure the heated bed cable with the old one and I cut the extra wires and now I solder the AC new wire to the DC old heated bed wire because my plan is to replace the wire directly inside this cable housing, so I just pulled the old wire out, and the new one will replaced like so and here. I’m gonna apply some tape over the thermistor wire to the new wires from our AC silicon heater. And I’m gonna pull it out Exactly like before all right now. The wireless are replaced inside this cable housing. And now we need to unsolder them. All right here on the socket. We have the four holes number. One and two are for heated bed, so we need to solder them. And number three and four are for thermistor! [MUSIC] And here, just for extra safety. I’m going to apply some installation tape, and then I’m gonna slide this plastic tube screw in back of the plug and reattach these two screws now, right, and it looks good next step. We can install the insulation material. I’m going to use this glue, so I just gonna apply it around the whole surface in a thin layer, don’t miss around the holes and around the edges next, slowly drop insulation material on the silicon heater and then slowly apply the pressure in the center first, then spread it across the whole surface to the edges, now apply some glass or ultrabass over the insulation material and apply some weight and weight couplers for glue to cure now. These heated bed cables are connected to the DC. Power supply and to the mosfet. We need to disconnect them and now. These two cables from the heated bed are now the AC cable first. We’re gonna connect one side to the relay and then we’re gonna reuse the cable that we got from heated bed before that we cut. We’re gonna make the small connection like. So on one side we’re gonna put at the input of the relay and other side we’re gonna plug in the AC side of the power supply. It doesn’t matter which one just important that is not the ground after installing. Just pull it like so and double-check your connection. It’s very important for the AC side, and then the second cable from the heated bed AC side goes here to the AC side of the power supply. So now the loop of AC is a closed. Double-check your connection next. We need the two cables, which will give the signal to the solid state relay when to turn on and when to turn off next apply the plastic protector or the solid state Relay Next unscrew the two screws on the motherboard connector. This is going to be our control to the relay so every time the relay needs to be on or off. This is how it’s going to be controlled. All right, then, double check your connections and now we’re going to disconnect the heated bed. Mosfet because we don’t gonna use it. No more instead, we’re gonna use this solid state relay to port the heated bed and this power supply. Also you can replace, for example, with a much smaller one, because you’re not gonna be pulling any current near as high as before and the AC main power will come from the relay directly to the AC heated bed that well just installed, so you can practically install even less than 10 amps, power supply and keep this stereo amp or to apply from some other project, but for now. I’m just going to reinstall it here. It’s a big tricky, so you have to push the side of the control box and the power supply in the same time, like so careful with the cables and then reinstall the power supply screws and double check your connections. Everything looks good and then reinstall the bottom of the control box and then reinstall the Spool holder. Next step is to reinstalling this adjusting heel bed screws. You can screw them directly to this installation sheet because it’s very fragile to hold the wires in the same place. I’m gonna install this wire holder made for this year 10 that I download from tinkerers. Next step is to reinstall the heat bed, Reinstall the springs under each screw. And now I’m gonna install the cable holder, and then I’m gonna push the heat bed cable underneath around the adjusting screw and then through the cable holder out and then I’m gonna put one cable ties just to hold the cables in a place and two more cable ties to hold heat bed cables in a place, then just apply this model cover on and then reinstall the glass plate and then attach paper clips. Plug your heated bed and plug in your AC cable and we are done and now finally let’s test our new setup. I have the watt meter and I have the count. What let’s increase the temperature to 135 degrees, which is maximum allowed on the Seer 10 And let’s see in what time we’re gonna reach the maximum temperature using our new. AC 750 watt heater. Go, alright? Our new system are pulling 750 watt from the wall temperature increasing rapidly. We already hit 40 degrees under 20 seconds and look at this. We are at 50 degrees in 27 seconds, compared to the 4 minutes and 35 seconds on the standard Seer Tan or Seer Tan s a huge improvement hunger degrees at 1 minute and 47 seconds, which was not even reachable with the standards Here Tan or certain s. And now we hit 135 degrees in 3 minutes 17 seconds, and that is awesome. They really now switch off the current. We can see on a watt meter, and now the current is back on, which means the temperature is a stable relay is working and this upgrade is very successful. And I’m very happy with the results. Not only that now we can read the temperature that before was unreachable, we have also increase so much more the heat at bedtime, and I think this is the best upgrade for Seer tennis and I can definitely recommend it. Alright, guys! That was my video about how to upgrade heated bed on the CR 10s or the CR 10 I think this is a pretty cool project. Great results. I’m going to leave all the links for all the parts in a video description, feel free to subscribe share and like and until next time, take care and happy printing. Bye bye!