Carbon Fiber 3d Printer For Sale | 3d Printing Carbon Fiber Nylon For Beginners (ender 3)

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3d Printing Carbon Fiber Nylon For Beginners (ender 3)

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Hey, what’s going on, guys? Before we get in today’s video? I just wanted to take a quick second to thank each and every one of you that have viewed my channel or subscribed to my channel over the last six to eight years since this channel started out. Um, we recently hit 8.5 million views, which is insane. The idea of 8.5 million people at one point or another watching one of my videos is absolutely just staggering. And I’m super thankful for each and every one of you guys for coming back and watching the videos and liking and commenting and subscribing and all that good stuff. So again from me to you, thank you so much. I really appreciate all the tremendous amount of support that I’ve gotten over the years. In the time that I’ve been 3d printing, it’s been quite astonishing, watching this technology evolve. It’s no secret as we see constantly on my channel. That machines are getting better and better and the price. The technology is dropping lower and lower. We keep seeing things like bigger build volumes, more functionality and just overall better reliability. And that is fantastic, One other huge thing, though, that I don’t think gets talked about Nearly enough is the evolution of materials now in 2014 When I got my first 3d printer, all that you could buy was PLA and abs. You had your pla for just your everyday knickknacks and doodads or models and abs was for the serious stuff when you’re wanting to print something that was going to be for a functional part. Well, since then, we have got a broad range of catalog of materials that have come out that are now able to be printed on your 3d printer, especially when we’re talking about things in the functional world of 3d printing. One of my big goals has been amongst testing out and showing you guys. New machines and new technology in this industry is also sharing materials with you guys as I grow in my 3d printing knowledge. I also want to take that back and share it with you guys to help you guys. Try out these new materials that maybe you’re interested in for your projects. Because with these new materials, it’s made 3d printing applicable to such a more diverse range of applications, which is fantastic. Everyone is really excited about being able to try out all these different materials. Well, about a year ago now. I did a video showing you guys how to print out nylon as well as a video showing you guys how to print out ninjaflex, which is a very awesome, flexible tpu material. And you guys seem to really like those videos. They did really well. The feedback. I still get to this day is thank you so much for your help, so I figured we would revisit those kind of videos and in this video, I’m going to be showing you guys how to print out carbon fiber nylon on your Ender 3 albeit my Ender 3 is quite modified, which I’ll show you guys in a minute here, but I hope you guys are really excited. So, in this video, we are going to be using Mata hackers Nylon X. That is their take on the carbon fiber nylon filament, Of course, the settings and things I discussed in this video are also going to be applicable to other nylon carbon fiber blends. Most of them are fairly similar in terms of settings so you can take these settings and slightly. Tweak them as you maybe see fit for your specific machine, and I think I’ve done enough Intro. Talking, let’s get into the real video. [MUSIC] So starting off, let’s take a look at the hot end and extruder, my creality. Ender 3 is rocking micro Swiss’s dual Gear Direct Drive All Metal Hotend, which I’ve been running for probably about six months now and have been totally in love with it is amazing. Drop in replacement for your Ender 3 or CR Style printer. Now the extruder aspect of this is not necessarily something necessarily something that you’re going to need to print with this material, but the all metal hot end is because your stock hot end has the Bowden tube running all the way to the nozzle and that cannot print hot enough to print with this material, So microswiss does also have an all metal hotend that you can drop in. If you don’t want the whole setup or, of course, any other all metal hotend whether it’s an e3d, a slice engineering or something else out there, any of those hot ends are going to be fine as long as it is all metal, one thing that we do need to upgrade, though, with the micro Swiss hot end is the nozzle the nozzle that comes with the all metal hot end or the combo kit is plated copper, which is a fantastic nozzle, except it does not do too well for abrasives for abrasives. We’re going to want either. A hardened steel, a ruby Tift or something like nozzle X from e3d in this video we’re going to be installing the nozzle from micro Swiss, just a 0.4 hardened steel nozzle. Luckily, nozzles are fairly inexpensive and typically you can find an all-metal one for around 20-ish dollars or a hardened steel one for around 20-ish dollars give or take and replacing them is also not very difficult. In this instance. I’m going to turn on my Ender Three. I’m going to preheat the hot end to somewhere around 240 to 250 Celsius. The reason why I’m going, this hot is because I’ve printed with really high temp materials like nylon in here, And if you just have a stock Ender 3 and you’ve been printing like PLA. Then raising the temperature to 220 is going to be perfect, essentially. What we’re looking to do is two things one. We want to melt any of the solidified material that’s stuck inside of the hot end, and we also want to give the metal a chance to expand so once your hot end has reached the desired temperature, we’re going to take an adjustable wrench and use that to hold on to the heater block and then we’re going to take either a socket wrench or just a small wrench to turn the nozzle counterclockwise and basically just keep spinning it around until the nozzle falls out. Be careful, of course, because the nozzle is very hot and to place the new nozzle in, we’re gonna do the exact same thing. Just leave, it heated up and tighten it. Um, I know how to put the nozzle in by just using my bare hand and twisting it in before it gets hot and then just tightening it, but I don’t recommend this because getting burnt by a nozzle is not fun at all and trust me. I know this from experience. It hurts so, um, I would recommend just using the adjustable wrench to hold the heater block and then again tightening it with your other wrench going around around when it comes to tightening the nozzle. You definitely want to make sure it’s in there. Nice and tight. I would describe it as being hand tight. Don’t over torque it. You don’t need to put a crazy amount of force into it because what you’re going to do is. Is you’re going to break something either? You’re going to break the nozzle off inside of your heater block or you’re just going to damage something so again, turn it around until it’s not getting just a little hand tight. And that is all that you need and your new nozzle is ready to rock and roll next. We are going to turn our attention to the bed now. Normally, in my Ender 3 I’ve been using a Pei sheet or a build attack flex plate with a Pei sheet to print most of my Plas and Ptgs and it works Great. However, nylon on the other hand is a very, very finicky material and it doesn’t really like to stick to anything other than itself, so we’re going to need to put on a build plate specific for nylon now. The two best options are either a borosilicate glass bed or a piece of gear. Light gear. Light works really, really well now. I don’t have gear light, so I’m gonna opt for a pane of glass that I have borosilicate glass and I’m going to place that on the existing heated bed and just use some binder clips to clip it in place. Also, I’m going to take a little bit of Elmer’s glue stick and just do about two passes back and forth on the bed to make sure that it’s nice and covered. This is going to help both with adhesion as well as removal when the parts finish so glass and glue stick is the a great pair and again, also, gear light works. Well, if you’re able to get your hands on some now. I wish I could say that. Once you’re done with that, you are ready to go over and slice your file to print. However, we’re not quite there yet. Nylon in general is extremely hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture and all thermoplastics, basically, even PLA and ABS can absorb moisture to an extent, but typically the amount of moisture that they absorb is much less and it doesn’t for most people affect their print quality or in the end, their 3d printed parts integrity. Well, nylon is one of those exceptions. Nylon pva and tpu are a couple of the big ones. Even pet can be nasty, but nylon in general. You want to dry out before printing with now? This spool is completely vacuum sealed, and there is a bit of desiccant in there to help with humidity, however, you don’t know how long the spool was out before it was actually packed. So if you’ve got the time, it is always best practice, and it’ll never lead to poor results to dry your filament beforehand. There’s a lot of different options out there for how to dry your filament for this. I’m going to use the sunlu fila dryer s1 that I reviewed probably a month or so ago now and I’m just going to go ahead and place the spool of nylon X in the dryer. Turn it on to the highest temperature, which in this case is 55c and I’m just going to let it bake out for six hours. I would say if you can make it out for at least six hours. Then you will be very happy with that now. Let’s jump over to Kira and take a look at my slicer settings. So for this material, I’ve had the best success printing at 70 Celsius on the bed and 275 celsius on the hot end. Of course, depending on your printer and your environment. You might need to bump these up slightly or bump. These down slightly I’ve got again. This Ender 3 that is not enclosed and is in a open room where there is possibility of someone walking by or the central AC unit kicking on. So I’ve got a lot more variation, but I’ve had fairly consistent results printing at again 70c on the bed and 275 on the hot end now. If you don’t have any crazy bridging or, um, gnarly overhangs, then I would recommend not having to lay your cooling fan on because it’s going to give you the best inner layer adhesion, but if you do have some serious bridging going on or again, some pretty steep overhangs. Then I don’t recommend having the lyric cooling fan on any more than 50 That’s what I did for my prints with a little bit More curved geometry and the real reason is because of nylon liking to warp. It’s it’s definitely, you don’t want additional air blowing on it because it can contribute to the warping factor, but again a little bit is typically not that big of a deal, but if you don’t need it, don’t run it. So when it comes to print speeds with the first layer being the most important and the determining factor as to whether the rest of your parts gonna fail or succeed, I recommend running the first flare around a really conservative 15 millimeters a second. I also make my first layer slightly larger than the rest of my layers just to help again with that larger footprint. I think that I was printing at 0.2 millimeter layer line or 200 microns and for the first layer, I was actually running a 0.3 millimeter layer. You can choose to do less than that if you decide, but again for me, that really worked well and my key point here is to have a successful print now for the rest of the print. I recommend somewhere between 40 and 50 millimeters a second. Yes, that’s not crazy fast, but I typically don’t run my printers crazy fast. If you get really good results at between 40 to 50 millimeters a second, there’s no reason why you can’t scale up speed wise from there, but I always say get good results before trying to have a speed demon of a machine for a material. So just once you start building some confidence and you get a little bit more familiarity with the material. Then you can kind of branch off from there and run wild with it if you will now. I only wanted to print functional parts with this stuff because one it’s pricier than my PLA and two, it’s really what it’s intended for is for functional parts. You see it a lot in Jigs and fixtures, functional prototyping, things like RC and drones quadcopters it’s really got high tensile strength and makes it perfect for this functional use. So for the first thing I want to do is print out some L brackets that I was actually going to use to mount my sound bar to the wall. When I originally printed it, it was looking really good, and then after maybe an hour or so printing, I started knowing a little bit of warping. The reason this happened was because it didn’t have enough surface area sticking onto the bed. So the way I was able to counter that was I went over to Kira and I added a brim, which basically just adds an additional width to the base layer. It’s typically just one good layer that attaches to your part and gives the bed more to grab onto it does need to be removed after the fact, but it’s not that difficult to remove, and if it means the difference between a failed or a successful part, definitely use it, so a brim worked perfectly. I was able to print out two of these brackets and the results turned out amazing. The parts looked so good now. The time that I printed with this filament, I printed directly out of the filament dryer and the reason why I did this was because it is not unheard of for someone, especially if you’re living in a really humid state, I keep thinking of Florida so Florida, you’re getting the example, but it’s not unheard of for somebody. That’s let’s say where they’re running a 10 or 12 hour print, and they dry out their filament. They take it out, they start. The print starts out looking great, but five or six hours in it’s absorbed enough moisture to be problematic. And either you’re going to see a difference in your part, Your part might fail. It’s going to be inconsistent, so if you have the option to print directly out of either a active dryer such as the one that I’m using or just a container that’s got desiccant in it. That’s that’s sealed with Just maybe a hole going directly from the filament spool to your printer. That’s what you’re going to want to do because again with nylon, anyone that’s printed with nylon will know firsthand what I’m talking about, But it is definitely a material where you want to control the moisture that is getting into this filament. After printing out the L brackets, I also printed out just a ball and socket, which was pretty cool. I’m thinking about using it to maybe mount one of my, uh, kind of security cameras to the top of and then mounting that to the wall and I can just pivot it around to change the angle on it, but either way, this is how to print this material. And if you follow these steps, you should be at least much better off than going into it blind. If you’ve got any questions or you feel like there’s anything I didn’t cover. Please let me know in the comments down below, and if you’ve printed with this material before or any carbon fiber nylon, let me know what kind of stuff you’ve been printing out. I’m always looking for some cool projects and again with the stiffness and rigidity and the strength this material has. I definitely want to find some really cool applications that I can use it for just around my house so on that note. This has been Daniel from Modbot. I hope you guys enjoyed this video. If you did, don’t forget to smack the like button and subscribe for more great videos. I made a video every single Saturday this year, which is absolutely insane and I just keep doing it, so there’s always fresh content coming your way, and if you want to support the channel. Furthermore, links will be down below to my patreon, where there is some really cool rewards, and I am super thankful for all of my Patreon supporters that allow me to spend more time doing what I love which is making content for you guys. So on that note, I will see you in my next video and I’m out peace, guys.