Build Your Own Sla Printer | Diy: Fdm-printed Sla-printer – Part 1

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Diy: Fdm-printed Sla-printer - Part 1

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Hello, and welcome to our first episode about the FTM printed SLA printer. It’s about these at Gantry first. An overview about the parks we need mainly consists of three 3d printed parts. First one will make our build plate. I have glued some five million media acrylic plate on top of the 3d printed part to have a nice, smooth surface or pill plate is a spare part with laser cutting edges. Nice, clean edges. Then they have this clamp like shape with an insert made of rubber made on millimeter thick, which helps us weapon good grip a good adhesion between different pieces that come together. I always have the role of this rapper. Mates laying around. They are great for making custom feet for housings, Then the third 3d printed parts that we have is this kind of shaft. It has a nice, clean surface on the other side and some 3d printed teeth and the downside those teeth will be pushed inside the wrapper once the pieces come together and this make a great addition so nothing will shake or be wacky. Also, we need an m4 screw 25 millimeter length with an x-shaped head and washer and m4 thumbs nut. Those hopper pieces will go onto the 3d printed part, which this has this clamp like shape on the one side. There is a hole that is hex shaped. This is where the screw goes in on the other side, we will add the washer first, and then the m4 somes not the assembled clan goes on to the shaft. The shaft has a smooth surface on the outside and teeth on the downside, the smooth surface on the other side helps to move the clamp and to tilled it along the axis as long as the external is not tied it in this open position, The clamp allows us four degrees of freedom. You can tilt along the x-axis move back and forth along. The Y-axis can also tilt along the y-axis and also adjust the Haight along the Z Axis As soon as we starts to tighten the thumbs nut The clamp will be pulled together, which causes the teeth of the other geometry will bite into the rubber, which makes a very tight bound and prevents all the parts to be shaky over key. It is a very strong pound. You can shake this without feeling that the parts will move. It’s almost like they are printed in one single piece. Here you can see closely how the teeth bite into the rubber. This is for the grip of the build plate but also on the down side of the shaft and was more closer. Look from the other perspective. You can very well see here the teeth of the crib how they are pushed inside the wrapper and the same. And now let’s see how this all fits together with the rest of the machine. The shaft itself has a modeled threat on one end, So it’s basically almost like a very big screw. So the chef can be screwed into the set slider the way the shaft is designed. Is that once we reached a maximum position by screwing it should also automatically point with the teeth downwards to the direction of the screen. Finally, the build plate will be positioned into the center of the screen so that the grip of the build plate will point directly to clamp the buff and now we can lower The set slider so that the clamp was light above the grip and once we satisfied with the position and the leveling at the same time. We just need to tighten our thumbs nut. No twos are needed. Just this one knot and everything is fixated and thanks to the idea of the teeth and the wrapper. It has such a strong bound that once we lift in your set axis, everything stays in place. Well, that’s all for today. I hope you found this little idea for the search. Angry, interesting and see you next time. Maybe about another part of the FTM print. It is a layer printer.