Arc Reactor 3d Print | Iron Man Power Suit #38 | 3d-printed Arc Reactor | James Bruton

James Bruton

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Iron Man Power Suit #38 | 3d-printed Arc Reactor | James Bruton


-. Hello, this is James from Xrobotscouk Today. This is part two of my 3D printed arc reactor project. So here’s the Arc reactor model that I did. I designed this In 123D Design from Autodesk, which is free software. You can download for absolutely nothing. I did a tutorial in the last part about how I created all these pieces. But basically, there are several pieces here, which are gonna be 3D printed. Now this piece floating off to the right hand side fits in each one of these indented parts here, so they can align properly and that’s where the wire gets wrapped round. There are various level pieces that all fit onto a chassis And the design has been optimized for 3D printing, so it’s not movie accurate. But most of the pieces are there and its characteristic of the arc reactor from the first movie. So various clear parts, so we can have an LED in the base and various parts that are printed separately and those get added on. So we’re gonna print all the parts in different color plastic, including the clear for the clear parts. If you wanna see more pictures of this, and eventually I will make the STL files available for download. You can go to my website. The link is in the description for this video. So the 3D printer I’m using is a LulzBot AO101 printer. This was pre-assembled from Lulzbot So it came shipped. All ready to go. Unfortunately, they don’t make that model anymore, But basically, it’s based on a MendelMax design, So there’s various other 3D printers you could buy. I’ve got various plastics to print in. The clear parts I’m printing in clear PLA. So it won’t be completely clear by the time it’s printed, but they’ll be pretty good. I also have three rolls of ABS here, Black, silver and gold. So I’ll be printing the parts straight in those colors, so I don’t have to paint them or color them afterwards. So here are all my 3D printed parts. There’s the chassis, the main base part, The gold and the black ring for the top various saddles and the diffuser, which fits just in there. And I’ve got two rings here One. I printed solid and one I printed with the holes in the bottom and a channel for the Leds. So that fits on there quite nicely. All pieces appear to fit together. And I should also have the two black rings which fit onto the base part. So in terms of lighting, I’ve obviously left a space in there to put an LED cluster of some sort. I’ve actually settled on these ones, Which are three volt. Leds, They’re one watt LEDs. They run off a couple of triple As. Those are extremely bright, too bright to look straight at, and that diffuses quite well into there. I’m kind of glad I did this design with the LED holes in there because it doesn’t really light up the outside ring at all. So I’ve got a load of white Leds to install in that ring So before I put the other parts on. I’m gonna work on fitting that LED actually inside and running the wires out, And I’m also gonna drill a couple of holes in each side, so I can run a wire up each side, which is gonna go up to the ring of Leds in the top. Now before I put this LED in here, I’ve made a couple of holes in the sides already. I need to put on one of the rings, so the wires go below. So one of these rings has got a slight taper on the inside, which goes higher up, and one of these rings is flat. So I’m just gonna fit that on all the way around. All of the 3D printed parts have slight ridges on so most of the pieces. Snap together now. So there we are. We’ve got the LED mounted. We’ve got wires coming out to run up to the ring, which I’ve used some copper wire. It’s actually coupled with insulation that you have to burn off with a soldering iron, so it won’t cause any shorts And it looks sort of characteristic of the arc reactor, So there’s that, And if we pop this diffuser on that works quite well. So now let’s put the other pieces on. Right, let’s have the other parts. So I’ve got this ring that goes in here. That should snap on all the way around, and it fits into a specific place where there’s a piece in the chassis that that fits exactly into. So I should be able to just push all those in a little bit and snap it on all the way around. There we go And then we can add the gold piece which just fits in there. And then finally, the black piece that fits on top. And most of these pieces snap together quite well. I probably will put some glue in. Let’s just turn that LED on again. So looking good so far. So here’s the main ring with the holes in and I’ve got these gray saddles as well, So they fit onto each segment as I described in the previous video. They should all eventually click into place. There we go. So there’s 10 of those. Quite a tight fit, Obviously. That’s where the wire gets wrapped around. So each one will have copper wire wrapped around. All the way around the bottom and below each one is an LED, So I need to fit all these Leds in all the way around. Now, I’ve positioned the Leds, so they’re directly below the saddles. So when we look at it from the top, we won’t just get a bright spot in each section. It should hopefully diffuse along the plastic from behind these. That’s the plan anyway. So let me get all those saddles on and we’ll stick all the LEDs in and then start soldering them together in one big ring. So all my saddles are installed and I’ve put the Leds behind. Now what I’m doing is bending the wires down to meet the next one and soldering them around in a ring. We’ve got all the shorter legs, which are negative in the middle. So we should be able to just put a dab of solder on each one and continue all the way around. All my Leds have been soldered and I’ve just temporarily attached these wires for testing. So we can see that lights up quite well. And I’ll just turn off this big light. That seems to do the job quite well. So now we need to wrap some copper wire around each of those and we’ll see how that goes. So I’m getting there with wrapping the wire around. I’m using this wire. I bought on Ebay for doing jewelry making and stuff It’s copper wire, but it’s either plastic or enamel coated, which means it doesn’t short out the Leds and the whole thing still works, even though this wire is touching, the Leds leads. So I’ve just got three more to do. I found. I need 60 to 70 centimeter long piece of wire to wrap round each one of these A number of times. Obviously, if it was thicker wire, I would need less. So there’s my main coil fully wound. I’m starting to put these links on here, which are soldered between the corners and they to be one from each corner. So 10 around the outside, and then there’s 10 around the inside as well. So the way I’m doing that is just scraping the coating of this wire off with a file. I’m tinning the piece with solder and then soldering the links, I get some solders to take to the corners and then cutting a piece of this silver wire and soldering that all the way around. So I’ll continue to do that. So I’ve finally got all my wire. Links done on the inner and outer all 20 of them. This, of course, fits quite nicely onto here. But obviously I need this outer ring to light up. So I left these two wires if you remember at the beginning. That one with the kinking is the positive and that one is the negative. So what I need to do is attach those to the two rings that I left with the LED leads. So we just need to solder those on. And then we should be complete. So here it is all together. The LED I put in the base is rather more yellow than the ones in the rings, But I quite like the look of it. I’ll be putting some high quality pictures on the website. You can find the link in the description to this video. At some point, I’ll make the STL files available for download. If you’d like to download one and print it yourself.

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