Hey, I’m Malik. From matter. Hackers and today. I’m going to show you how to succeed with ABS. Currently, ABS is the second most common 3d printing filament following closely behind PLA ABS is so common because of how versatile and prevalent is in your day-to-day life. In fact, most consumer plastics are made from ABS like Lego or other toys. They’re all it made from ABS now if you’ve never printed with ABS, and it only have a printed with PLA. There’s you’ll find, it’s a bit different. How it works a lot of the techniques between how to succeed it to PLA and how to succeed with ABS are the same, so the two guys in the sounds a little familiar, but there’s some key points that are different between the two ABS is a prone to warping and splitting and being all around too tough material to jump into so with this guide we’re going to show you some tips and techniques for how to turn your abs print into some amazing finished products. The first tip is to make sure your first layers right now. Different perimeters have different techniques for actually leveling the bed. So your technique, you may need to adjust. According to that for most printers is something like either three screws or four screws on the corners of the bed or to the funnel in the back. And all you have to do is move the nozzle over the screw. They could flip the paper and put it underneath the nozzle and then gently turn the screw until there’s a very slight resistance between the nozzle paper and the bed there you’re going to gently pull on it, so you get a right for amount of resistance and then move the nozzle at each point once the resistance is about the same on all of them, You’re good to go. The point isn’t to get super tight on all of them or super loose, just a consistent level across all of them from there. You can go in your slicer and adjustments the opposite. If you sign, that’s starting to print, it’s too close or you can try and mess with it while it’s freeing the skirt and adjust the screws at that point. That’s what I personally do. You can use whatever technique You find works best for you. Other printers automatically level event, so something like the Lowell cut has six for the Old Connector Three. Those have their techniques for leveling the bed. And with that you have to worry about anything. Watch it! When it starts, make sure it hears bed and you’re good to go. You can also software level any printer by using matter control within Matic control, There’s a leveling feature where you can pick three points on the bed and it’ll walk you through the steps to level it, basically, the same process as if you were turning the screws, but with this, even if your bed is at a full angle, it’ll be able to adjust for that and print on that angle the entire time, so that’s just some different techniques for how to level the bed, but follow the instructions that came with your printer because each printer does have its own. Set those rules now that the bed is level. You need to actually make sure that the nozzle is at the correct distance from the bed. Do that all you need to do is watch it. The skirt is laid out. Are the lines super close to each other and actually lifting each other apart? Do not look too close or the line far enough apart where you can see a distinction between each pass your nozzles to the bar, and these are things that you’ll gain and learn as you print but to start off. Just make sure that the lines are just a little squished. Into each other. We’re not smearing out the size of the nozzle pacify. You can also use matter control to baby step, use the offset, so it will move the nozzle and small increment away from the bed or closer to the bed. If you find that, it wasn’t tuned right when you turn the screws in that case, all you could do is just gently move the nozzle up or down and point out two millimeter increments until you find that the bed station is at the right level six number two red adhesion and print bed service. Now each printer has its own print bed surface, either glass or PE on glass aluminum, buildtak. There’s so many different combinations of a print bed, but let’s talk a little more in depth about how to actually succeed, depending on the material. If you don’t have a key to bed, sorry. Abs isn’t for you. ABS is very prone to warping. And if the bed isn’t near 110 Celsius. It’s just not going to work if your part’s going to work away smear. You’re going to end up with a block of ABS and around your nozzle, so let the boy back. If you do have a heated bed kiss what you can do. You need some sort of built plate adhesion, So whether that hairspray on glass or you use buildtak or UPEI with a tiny bit of hairspray or aluminum? Whatever you have, you need something. Print down, we find that. Aqua Net extra hole works best on glass, but we’ve heard plenty of success using Kei in the bed or built a Couture straight aluminum. The point is to just have 110 degrees Celsius on the bed, and that will really stick your part on to increase your chances of a successful print and also to brim. I like to use 15 lines around the base of the print like this Bulbasaur planter! It’s got a brim going around it. And what that does. It gives it more adhesion to the bed and further out, so get the pulp art. If you have a wide base either way, a brim helps to really cement your print down while you’re printing, and it will still pop off pretty easily and you’re done only one layer, thick tape. You’re printing on glass, and you don’t want. It sprayed hairspray all on the inside of your printer. You don’t trust that you can keep your control enough. You can also make. ABS, choose which you have a video on about how to make gate or slurry or all the different forms of ABS mix with a baton. You can also use. Kapton tape on your bed with some hairspray on top of that, But the Capcom tape Does it help to disperse the heat from your build plate so that even the edges and the corners can heat up tip number three, calibrating the print temperatures for abs. I generally print it in two hundred Thirty five degrees Celsius from the print head and hiring ten degrees Celsius for the bed. Now I don’t stray too far from a hundred ten for the bed, But depending on the brand, the color and all the different additives in the filament, I may go as high as 250 or as low as 220 It’s something that you’ll need to calibrate the printing small calibration prints, the retraction testing or prevent you find something that works for you to calibrate and to see what temperature works better for that filament six number four. How to change film one of the earliest mistakes. I made when 3d printing was changing filaments. I thought that I could just pull a filament out. Put the new one in and be done with it. What I actually need to do is make sure that the temperature of the filament is hot enough for it to be able to do some out of the novel. Because what happens is it melts and then cool in the novel, it forms up plug, so what you got to do is heat up a nozzle, disengage the retention on the pewter, which came to be done the lever and some printers or some other system that needs to be disengaged. What we do we heat it up to a normal printing temperature. Pull it out, Put the new one in re-engage the extruder and you can start printing now. If you’re trying to avoid color mixing what you can do is set the extruder to 90 sell kids gently pull on the filament and then turn up the heat to about 950 at some point. You’re going to feel the film is give you yank it out, pulling out all the old gunk and have a nice clean extrusion when you put in the new film there six number five enclosures. Now, even if you followed all the other tips, you still may be having trouble with your print and enclosure will help with that. This part was printed without an enclosure, but this one was printed with one. They both have the exact same settings the only difference if I put the enclosure that we built, leave this video over the printer and I got rid of all the splitting, I got rid of the warping. In fact, this one, I could probably crush this in my hand, but this one came out near perfect, having an enclosure over your printer, even if it’s something as simple as just a trash bag over it or you build enclosure like in our other video, which we made for a little iPad 6 either those will work. You just want to keep the heat in and drag the air out. Step number 6 be sure to regularly clean your trigger gear. There’s a small gear inside your shooter, And that gear presses up against your filament and pushes it through using the small keep on now the tension is too tight. It really chews up that filament. And then it failed to extrude or if it’s just being regularly used. It fills up a little bit. You need to clean out. Easiest thing to do is use a toothbrush or a small, wiry brush, brush out the gears. That’s returning it. Make sure it’s all clean once. I’ve done it’s good to go for another couple months. The thing is to just make sure that when you see, it’s getting dirty or you see that there’s filament dust all in the extruder. Just clean it out as a refresher in a general manner. If you aren’t able to extrude at all, your nozzle may be clogged. And in that case, we have another video on how to unclog your nozzle. So be sure to check that out. Add that to your knowledge base for when it happens because it will happen. It happens to me. It happens to the best of us. It’s just part of 3d printing and that’s it. A lot of information upon says, but altogether you should have something to work from in order to start printing abs and to start putting ABS successfully. I’m Alex and matter hackers thanks for watching. Thank you for watching if you liked that. 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