Hey, I’m Bob it. I like to make stuff today. We’re gonna make some filament storage with an etched glass door, given the number of 3d printers that I’ve got and the amount of printing that we do. We have a whole lot of filament of all different types now. Some of it lives up here on the top. We’ve got a shelf down. There we’ve got a shelf over here. That’s kind of hard to get to and so to try to consolidate and organize some of that. We’re going to make a shelf that goes on the wall and this is also going to serve another purpose. This cabinet is going to be able to control the humidity and temperature of certain roles of filament for some of these that we use that doesn’t matter, but certain things like nylon. That’s a pretty big deal, so we’re going to start by building a cab. [MUSIC] I need to cut this one piece down into two with a 45 degree angle on each piece, so I’ve got the center point with the 45 degree and then on the miter sled, I’m going to set it to 45 degrees as we’ll push it up against this sled and then line up my mark with the blade and cut it that way. [MUSIC] Most of these pieces are just going to be butted together because they’re not going to carry any load, but the one that goes across here will be the main shelf that holds all the filaments, so it’s going to have a lot of weight on it. So instead of about joints we’re gonna put in a dado, a 3/4 inch dado all the way across this piece so that it can accept the shelf. [APPLAUSE] [Music] [Music]. This is how all the pieces fit together. It’s pretty simple. This shelf goes into that dado that we cut, and then all these other pieces are just going to be glued and Brad nailed together. Let’s get this done then. We’ll work on, adding some of the special features before we glue that whole thing together. I want to put some holes in the back of it so that it can hang on the wall. I’m gonna use something called a keyhole bit, and this actually has two different shapes on it. Any both cut? There’s a wider bit that you plunge into the wood, and then you move it. And so it cuts a hole this big down into the wood and then makes a slot above it of the thinner diameter that makes it so that you can put it onto a screw head or onto a nail hood, and it’ll drop down in place. I’ve got that keyhole bit. Put in this plunge router, so I can plunge it down and then push it forward to make the slot, but I want to make sure that those are going perpendicular to the long piece, So I’ve set up a stop block here. We’re gonna clamp it down to the workpiece that way. I can always start the router against this, so they all start in the same place, and then I’ll just push them up a little bit to get the keyhole. Now, the other part of this is that we have to make sure that the top of the key holes are all at the same distance from the bottom So that the whole thing won’t sit crooked on the wall, So I’ve got another straight edge here. That’s going to be our stop and I’m just gonna measure the difference between where it starts and where I want it to stop. Make sure that those two lines are parallel and then. I’ll clamp it down as well [Music] [Applause] [Music] now we’re just gonna glue these pieces together and use some. Brad nails to hold them in place. Otherwise I would just clamp it up, but by using the Brad nails we can move on and continue to work on this thing. [MUSIC] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] We’ve got this thing pretty much put together in the last piece here for the structure is to put this kind of Stringer underneath the front of this shelf. The Shelf probably won’t bow. It is 3/4 inch ply, but it’s kind of a long span and with that weight pushing right here in the middle. There’s a good chance that over time this will start to droop so by having a piece of solid wood underneath it running across it that should strengthen up a little bit now. All of this exposed plywood could be covered with edge banding. But a lot of this up here is gonna be covered with the door frame. That’s going to go on here. That’ll be solid wood so instead. I think I’m just gonna do edge banding on this little exposed part right here, because that’s all you’ll see when it’s closed. Edge banding is a great way to hide the fact that you’re using plywood. I use it all the time. In fact, we did a whole bits video on how to apply it. How to cut it all? That stuff hit the link down below. If you wanna check that out. [MUSIC] I got all the edge banding put on, and I ended up Just going ahead to cover all the surfaces because it looked better. So next We’re gonna make the door. That’s going to go on top of here and that’s going to be made out of a 1 by frame, put together with half lap joints. [MUSIC] One of the cool things about using a half lap for a frame is that you can cut all four pieces to the full dimensions of your frame. You don’t have to have two sides that are shorter the way this works is that you cut away half the thickness of both of these pieces so that they fit together like that, and they are overlaid and matched up with the corner. Let me show you! I’m working with two different thicknesses of pieces. If you had the same thickness for the whole frame, this would actually be even easier, but basically. I need to cut away this thickness from this piece, so I’m going to set this up against the beginning of the cut, right where the blade hits here, and then I’m going to set up a stop block over here and clamp that down. Then you take the piece against the crosscut sled and you start running it through the saw, cutting away half the thickness of this piece, Then you move it over and over and over until it hits the stop block, Then you’ve got that other piece notched out of the bottom of this one and just to double-check. I’ve got this marked at half thickness of the material, and I’m gonna lay that down against the teeth and you can see where it’s going to cut. So the blades in the right position. Let’s cut it [Music] [Music] so now we’ve got this cutaway and once this piece is notched as well, it will fit right in there and then will line up perfectly so now we’ve got to cut the other end of this piece. Do the same on the other side, and then the long sides. These are the two pieces cut now and they fit together just perfectly so now we’re going to glue and clamp this up to dry. [MUSIC] The blue is all dried on that frame so now we’re ready to start working on putting in the glass. This glass was cut at Lowe’s, but unfortunately, we’re gonna have to knock it down a little bit smaller to fit in the door, but even to place this in the door, we first have to make a rabbet for it to sit in to make an inset in the door for the glass to sit down, and we’re gonna use a rabbeting bit in a router. It’s got a little bearing on it. That will ride on the inside edge of the frame and then just cut out a little shelf all the way around. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I’ve already measured out the opening, so I know the maximum size for the glass, but I want to go ahead and set it in place and just make some marks so that I cut it a little bit longer sized that way. There’ll be a little bit of wiggle room in both directions and to break this glass. I’m going to use a scoring tool. It has a little wheel on it, and you just score along the mark that you want. And then you crack it from that score. I’m also going to add a little bit of WD-40 to the surface just to help that score [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music]. I made up this stencil on the vinyl cutter, and this is going to act as a mask on our glass so that I can etch it. I didn’t go over this process Super detail because we have a bits video that covers how to do this entire thing. We’ll put a link to that if you want to check it out. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] now that we’ve got the stencil on, we’re gonna put on some glass etching solution. Basically, just wipe this on with a brush and a really thick coat. Then you leave it on for about five minutes, and then you completely wash it off and you’ve got edged glass. [MUSIC] [Music] I’ve got this completely covered pretty evenly so now we’re going to wait about five minutes and then take it out and just hose it all off. [music] down here! It looks like nothing happened just because it’s laying right on the table, but as you start to separate it from the things behind it, you can really see that it’s frosted, and then once we take these stickers off, you’ll really be able to see the difference between the two sections right next to each other. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] all right now that we’ve got the last one off, it’s time to go put this in the door, but before we can put it in the frame, we have to put on the hinges. We’ve got these hinges to put the door on to the cabinet. These are full overlay hinges, so this part will be in the back of the door. This part will be in the case. We’re going to use these two jigs to make the correct holes for this. This is a shelf pin jig, But it turns out that these holes are actually the right spacing for the holes on the hinge. So we’re gonna drill two holes here and then line the center point of those two holes up on the door and then use this to drill the big hole on the door. For this piece decision, it would make the most sense and it would be easiest to drill this hole before you put the case together, but I didn’t do that, so we have this little cool attachment that lets us drill at a 90 degree angle. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] So we accidentally used the wrong bit for this. I actually grabbed the bit from the back of the shelf. Pen jig. Its way too big for the screws. So we’re gonna take these little slivers of bamboo. Stick these in there and then drive in some screws. [MUSIC] All right, we’ve got the door on here. It’s hinged and works pretty well, so now we’re going to put in the glass and hold that glass in place with something called a point drive. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] Now we’ve got this door finished and we’re going to put in a few more things into this box. This is a dehumidifier bar. This is made to go in a gun safe and it keeps the relative humidity inside an area lower to check that we’ve got this little insert that will show us the humidity and the temperature we’re gonna drill a hole and stick this in the side. We’re also going to drill a couple of vent holes in the top corner and then the bottom corner and hopefully with this heat source on the inside, it will create a convection current to pull in some new air and push out some old air that has the humidity in it, so let’s get some holes drilled and all this stuff installed. [MUSIC] So the tip of this Forstner bit poked through right there, and so I’m flipping it around and I’m going to drill from this side, right at that same center point, so I don’t get any blow out on the surface. We’ve got a bunch of excess cord here from that heating rod, and luckily it came with this type of a plug where you can just cut the cable off. Lay it in there, and then when you slide over this top, it holds it all together, and it’s a quick and easy way to shorten the cord before we put on the power strip here. I want to put in some vent holes in this top corner. I’m also going to put some matching holes in the bottom corner of the other side. The idea is to pull some air through the box to get some circulation and the convection current from the heat on the inside will take some of the moisture out now. I don’t know if it’s actually gonna do anything, but I also don’t think it’s going to hurt to have some vent holes. [MUSIC] [Music] in the underneath section we’re going to mount a couple of these magnetic strips and these are great for holding tools. And you can just screw them in place. I’m going to use a little spacer here just to make sure that these are parallel to this bottom edge as well. [MUSIC] When we modelled up these little carriers, these hold a couple of bearings and we’re gonna put two of these like this, and then a roll of filament can sit on top of them so that it can roll freely within this, and that’s so that we can drill a hole right about here and feed a piece of filament through this bottom area down into a printer. We’ll probably set a couple of these up, so we can have a couple of feeds coming through, but really, you could print out as many of these as you wanted and run them all the way the length of the cabinet were going to mount this power strip here on the side as well so we can plug this and all the other tools into it, but unfortunately, the key holes are the wrong direction of how. I actually want it to hang, so we’re gonna use this high stick tape to hold it in place, and if we ever need to come back and glue it. We can always do that later. [MUSIC] earlier, I drilled these key holes in the back and this is going to fit over a screw and then drop down onto it. That’s how it’ll lock into place, so we’ve got to make holes for these 12 inches apart on the wall, and this is going to go into a concrete wall, so we’re going to use these tapcon screws and these a special masonry bit to drill the hole. [MUSIC] Now we’ve got this mounted on the wall. We can put in these rollers. These are gonna go underneath a couple of the spools so that they can spin freely on these bearings within the cabinet. Now, one thing we didn’t really think about that would make this a little bit Better is putting some sort of a gas strut on these sides to hold this open right now. It’s gonna close. Unfortunately, in this frame. We didn’t leave enough room right here to attach that strut. But in the plans we have available for this. We will get that correct now to get these mounted in place. I’m going to use some stickers, which are available on our store as a space here just to get it off of the wall and then. I’m going to line it up with the front edge here that I’ve marked with the combination square. So I know where it goes. I’m going to screw this down into the wood, but first to hold it in place. I’m going to use some CA glue [Music] [Applause]. I put this roller on the side, but you could put them anywhere. You want or all the way across depending on how you want to break the cabinet up between storage and feed if you do want to feed down to a printer below, just drill a hole and then put in some of this PTFE tubing and that will help protect the filament as it comes out of here and goes into your printer. The last little thing to do here is to put in a bumper. And this is going to stop these from rolling out when you open the cabinet. I’m spacing it so that they are far enough away from the heat source in the back. I don’t want it too close. I don’t want it to touch and by keeping this line up here all the way across. We can also use it to line up the bearings as we add them in different locations. [MUSIC] So here it is we’ve. Got everything installed? All the tools are nice and organized here and we’ve got a print running from inside the box. The only thing on this that I would really like to improve is the glass etching. There’s some kind of weird shapes in there where the etching solution wasn’t uniform, but we can easily swap out that piece of glass with another one. If we get a better result, the only other thing that I think it could really use is the gas strut to hold this door open and like I mentioned before the plans are gonna have that built into it, so you can easily add. One we’ve got tons of other types of project videos that you may be interested in. Check some of those out over there, and if you’re not subscribed, go ahead and do that as well. That’s it for this one guys. Thanks for watching, see you next time. We’re gonna fill these holes That are too big with some bamboo skewers. That’s how you say it skewers and skewers! Dang it, dang it against my better judgment today. We’re gonna make some filament storage with a glass each door. Each glass door.