3d Printed Toilet Paper Holder | Toilet Paper Tactical Reload!

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Toilet Paper Tactical Reload!

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Hey, everyone, welcome back to another patty’s lab video. Today I’m gonna show you how I made this. Japanese inspired tactical reloading system for toilet paper without using one of those shitty overhead covers. Enjoy watching. [MUSIC] So please keep watching because I will explain how pitfalls and I will explain how to make this work the way I intended it. I also included separate ones that can be spread apart as far as you want so to house kitchen towel rolls instead of only toilet paper or maybe have wider toilet paper, so keep watching because I’ll explain each version that I have, and I also included a one-to-one draw template, so you can make this out of wood without the help of a printer also included step files, so the CNC fans out there can make this with their CNC machines. What is really important is the way that these lips These arms are designed that they basically because of their kind of squarish nature. They will prevent the roll from rolling too much whenever it’s loaded in so you can pull on it, but it will stop rolling, and that’s really convenient, of course, because you don’t want all the toilet paper to fall onto the floor. Whenever you pull a little bit and you can still rip a piece off, so that works just fine without the cover here. You can see all the different models that I will upload into the zip file that I upload to Colts 3v and it will contain the text, quick, reload and tactical reload on top, and you can either choose for the Honeycomb design or a plane design and even the plane design is hollow from the inside, so you still save material, but if you want to go for the Honeycomb design, I recommend you to watch the next section really closely because it will explain how to tackle that problem because it’s quite tricky to print. Also, if you don’t want to go through the hassle to align both of these towers separately, then you can choose for a fixed hundred millimeter and 105 millimeter width. I will also include a plane model with which is completely filled from the inside, so it’s literally a block with two pins sticking out and that’s for using in CNC work, so you can load in the step file infusion and then add some things you want and then CNC it that way and I will also include a PDF for if you want to do this by hand with scroll saw or something like that, so that will contain one to one drawing, so you can make it yourself at home without using a 3d printer or a CNC machine, so now let’s move over to the next section, and that will explain how to tackle the problem with the Honeycomb design. So please keep watching. I loaded in the the two towers and as you can see. I kind of pushed one a little bit through the build plate and the reason why I bid this? I mean initially. I wanted to give you just the settings that I used, but I switched filament brands and now the print doesn’t turn out too great, and I will explain why this is really tricky to print, and if you don’t want to go through the hassle of doing this, you can, of course, use the solid wall models that don’t require any fancy tweaking to get the fancy shapes to work and they are also hollow from the inside. So you save material anyway, but I will show you. What is the problem with these honeycombs? So whenever the printer is done printing one of those rising stamps, you get to these overhang parts and what is basically happening. The hot plastic here is cooling down and I will include an image on screen. What is actually happening? It’s pulling up the sides and that will create a snack point for the printer whenever it moves from one location to the other. So I tried to implement Z-hops and that kind of worked. So the printer is z-hopping from one tower to the next one instead of like snagging on those edges, I also try to increase the print temperature and this, of course could worsen the effect of the warping, but I tried to basically let the printer flatten out this bit a little bit, and I also cranked the fan up to a hundred percent in combination with a slow outer and inner wall speed. So these are the settings. I tried to make this work and it kind of worked, but it was also filament dependent and, of course, your printer might might have different fans and different cooling flow. So really advise you to only print one model. Lower it down into the platform and try to get your printer. Settings dialed in for these hexagon shapes that said we can move now onto the easier printed parts. And these are the two pegs that you press into the main body into these holes, right here to in order to lock the moving arms into place, and I will show you the pegs and the arms in the next clip I loaded in one of these bags and one of these arms, and you need, of course to print two of each because they are repair and the only thing that is really important for printing. These parts is just use a 100 in film. You need a sufficient mass on one side of the hinge for them to fall down, so if they are in the up position, you want all your mass on the left side of the hinge, so they can fall down and then on the right side of the hinge on the other side, Because if you don’t do that, then they probably will stay upright. I will now show you the PDF with the drawings so you can make them by hand. If you want to, so let’s move over to that. This is the drawing that I will also include into the zip file that I will upload to colts3dcom. This is a one-to-one scale printout, so make sure you print it at 100 scale because a lot of programs try to fit the images to the paper, and then you will end up with maybe 97 scale instead of 100 That’s why, and added this sentence here. I want to encourage you to use this to make your own parts. If you don’t have a printer, and that’s why I kept everything really simple. I added the center marks so you could just use a center punch to take over the holes. Copy them added dimensions and a few of them. Look, really weird, but that’s the way I designed this, so yeah, live with that and make sure that you cut out these sections right here so that the mass distribution is heavily towards one side and that will make them be able to fall close. That’s the the only things I have to mention so now we’re gonna watch the time lapse, so enjoy the time-lapse of the parts being printed. [MUSIC] These are two very important parts for the toilet paper holder, the way they work since they have kind of sharp edges, and there is a small fillet in the cab model, but still due to the nature of their printing, they can develop a small bur on one side because of the sharp nature, they basically prevent the roll from rolling on its own. So whenever you pull on it, it will basically stop. If it was really round, then the roll would keep on rolling, and then you need indeed, the coffer that you see on many commercial ones, but I decided to go without the cover because I don’t like that, so that’s why it’s really important that you sand or use a d-bearing tool. These edges where the roll is rolling on just so much that you like the friction that they create. So if you overdo it, then the roll will probably roll too much, and if you under do it, then the roll will probably not roll the desired way and the same holds for these holes, so you just have to deburr them A little bit on both sides to make sure that they are operating smooth, that’s. The only remark that I have regarding these. So now let’s move to the main model, and this is how the main model turned out and it looks pretty nice. And then you have these packs that you pressed it into here to lock the arm into place. You might want to sand them a little bit, so they fit a little bit snug or add a little bit of glue. That’s up to you, of course, but I saw that the printer had layer shifted right here, and that could be, of course, the case that my print head is much too heavy for the setup that I use, but I mean, I didn’t have this happening to the part that I showed you in the introduction so this could be a one-off. Uh, accident and here you can see the snagging, so it’s basically broken and I have a little bit of stringing but for the rest. The part looks, uh, looks pretty cool, and this is a quick reload one. Of course you could choose the tactical reload as well. Thank you for watching if you made it this far and remember, you don’t have an excuse any longer to leave an empty roll hanging. See you in my next video. [MUSIC] [Music] you?