3d Printed Halo Assault Rifle | How To Make 3d Printed Rifle – Ma5b Halo Assault Rifle

3D Printing with Rise of the Fenix

Subscribe Here

Likes

28

Views

309

How To Make 3d Printed Rifle - Ma5b Halo Assault Rifle

Transcript:

Need a weapon to go? Fight off the covenant! We’ll join me today as we print the ma5b assault rifle from Halo. See you guys inside. Hello, and welcome. Today’s video, Today’s video. As I said, we are printing the halo assault rifle. So this thing was an undertaking in itself of just not even printing but assembly, and you know, Halo was one of the first video games that got me really back into video games. It’s the first game that got me back to even looking at a console. A lot of good times were spent playing halo with my friends growing up in high school and my senior year and first years of college and all that and the iconic weapon that you always saw was the assault rifle. Kind of one of those things. I was intrigued by the model. So I figured why not let’s print it. Um, it’s always a great thing. That’ll eventually hopefully wind up on the shelf behind us. Here there’s still a lot of work to do on this one. This is it printed and assembled. I’ve still got a lot of seam filling and all that. Then I got a primer and get it ready. There are a few defects that I’m going to fix from the fit from the printing process, but all in all, it came out really. Well, nothing that can’t be fixed or made better or worked better and, you know, just the ability. I mean, this thing is life-size so we’re gonna kick over. We’re gonna get this thing off Thingiverse. We’re gonna go through, Kira. We’re gonna get all 27 pieces, ready to print, and then I’ll we’ll show you guys The time lapse laps of it printed And, of course it’s already assembled. Now here comes a challenge for you. Do you guys want to see me? Print halo armor. If yes, one make sure you’re subscribed to the channel, two hit a like on this video and number three of that witch Halo, which armor halo one two, three, four five. Maybe, uh, just which one would you like to see pretty? Would you like to see the original, or do you want to see the newer hotness that’s coming around or maybe even some of the shots we’ve seen from infinity, so let’s hop over to the computer, but most importantly, make sure you hit that. Subscribe button. Join the crew! If you’ve got any questions about 3d printing. Leave me a comment down below and make sure you share with this with any of your halo enthusiasts or 3d printer enthusiasts or anybody out there. You think might be interested in seeing how a prop like this can easily be made using a 3d printer. So let’s hop over to the computer. All right, guys, here is the file. We are using today to make this wonderful ma5b rifle. So Emile Slovaski. I am terrible with names, so I apologize now. This is the file on myminifactorycom. It is a wonderful looking rifle. Um, you know, looking at the picture, you can tell the seams and stuff, but you know what there’s filler and 3d printing pin and ways to make this one better and definitely, that’s something we’re going to do, but it’s just a beautiful, simple model. That’s laid out in the configuration. So if you’re interested in it, go find this guy. Get this one downloaded links down in the description to this model, But let’s get this down into Kira. As I said, there are 27 printed pieces. A lot of these are pretty large. There’s not very small pieces. I think the smallest piece was the trigger and maybe the end of the flashlight here. So let’s get over to Kira and lets. Get this thing going. I’m going to choose that Curia. Those other ones are other projects that I have in progress for the channel, and I used a cr-10 to print this just for sheer print volume now. I want to double check. You can, so you’re going to need a larger printer for this. One now what you can do too, is cut these pieces up in the smaller chunks using mesh mixer, but I used a cr-10 to print the printer, which has the wonderful, nice size build plate, and I do apologize about computer slowness. I got a new one coming. Um, just hasn’t arrived yet. So as you can see, there’s wonderful detail on this model that just screams print me and I did print it, but basically, um, what you’ll see in the time lapse is? I was on average able to do three pieces at a time. Some only two because it’s a big model. This is a I mean, This is Life-size. This is a large prop. So basically, I’m not going to go through every part of the model because they’re all cut similar. The rifle basically has been cut down in half lengthwise and laid out and cut into multiple pieces into a mirror. Basically, so that gives it great printability. If you get a warped part, it really doesn’t matter as much because that’s going to be on the inside because you’re printing the inside plate down. So if you’re using a raft or something like that, it’s not going to make a huge impact. You’re going to be able to get good adhesion in that, but like I said, if you’re wanting to use a smaller printer, mesh mixer can be a wonderful tool that crashed on me last time. I used it because let’s pull one of these bigger parts in and I do have a video on how exactly how to do this as you can see. That’s a pretty big piece so basically, if you’ve got the smaller printer like the inner three and that you need to do this, I’d recommend coming in doing a plain cut right across the center of the model. Keep both hit, accept and then come down here and do separate shells, and you got shell one and two, then save each one. So then you’ve got your files, um, to make it in smaller pieces and get it on that smaller printer. It’s not that hard to do. It’s really kind of cool thing to think. Cool thing that you can do so, yep. That should be everything you need to do in meshmixer to get these down to that ender, three size. So you’ll save that you’ll basically go to file save as and make sure you save it as a or actually, I apologize. You need to export and make sure you export it in that STL file type, and you see? I did some of that with the Mandalorian helmet. So that gets you down onto your ender 3 off the cr-10 build plate. But basically, what you’ll see is. I think I had ten different prints to get this rifle done and I was doing two to three occasionally. I got a fourth piece on there, but a lot of times. It was two or three pieces now. I printed this in a week, but I was also using three printers to do the job. So keep that in mind. I printed it pretty quick, but I do want to talk about some of the settings, too. Um, layer height. I did at 0.15 initial layer height. I did a 0.3 I wanted a thicker bottom layer wall thickness. [MUSIC] I actually went up moving mine to one and wall line count to two top thickness. I did .75 and I actually went up having to bump up to five as my top layers for this model just to get a good, clean one. Actually, if you look really close in my in the video of the rifle, you see, there’s a few spots where the top layer was really thin. It was because that setting had changed down to two for some reason on my cure and I didn’t catch it. Um, infill density. You don’t need a lot on this rifle. It’s actually really cool the way this model was built. You don’t need a ton of infill. I did 10 on every piece. It kept. It keeps the prop lightweight and really nicely to work with. I’m using inland PLA plus to print this. You know, it’s like, no, Excuse me. I wound up using a couple colors. I was using multiple printers trying to get some spools finished off too, so I did wind up using white and gray in printing. This one and what I’ll do is ill. Put this into a gray primer after I go through and do a bunch of filling in the seams. And if you guys want to see that filling in and finishing of the rifle, make sure to leave a comment down below and let me know that you do want to see that because I can always add that to a video or make that its own video of me, finishing some projects all in one. So, um, 215 is what I found to be a really good temperature for the inland PLA. Plus it’s recommended from 205 to 220 215 Seems to do really good for me and where I’m located in heart of Missouri. My build plate temperature of 50 works really well for me. So as we’re going through winter, I’ve kind of knocked it down a little bit. When summer comes back, I’ll probably bump that back up to 60. Here’s my speed settings, nothing really extraordinary there I do have retraction enabled because I’m doing multiple parts. I want to keep stringing down to a minimum. So 6.5 is my average retraction distance and 25 millimeters, my average retraction speed So and I do have Z hop on when retracted and Z hop on. Um, yeah, we’re going to get rid of that one. It doesn’t matter on this model, but I don’t like that setting because it won’t z-hop over supports, Which means I’m pregnant. My support over cooling is pretty much standard settings support. You don’t really need to do a thing here. There’s not a lot that needs support on this model. There’s a few edges like right here. That will need a little bit of support, but 80 is right where you need to be build plate adhesion. I’m doing on a raft and honestly, I did it with an extra margin of two just to give it a little bit more plate adhesion and kind of avoid stuff. I didn’t do anything with experimental, and all you gotta do is slice now. You’ll have to do this multiple times as I said. I think there were. There’s 27 pieces divided by three. There were at least nine or ten prints here that I did, but since I kept the infill low, an average print was maybe one day to one and a half days for the set of parts, so this printed really quickly really beautiful built model. Um, all credit to the model maker on this one. I was excited to find this model and find one that came out so clean and looked really nice in the end and one that. You know, I can customize this a little bit more to my own way. I’m going out looking at some of the other models that are out there in thingiverse and Colts 3d There are some models that have more of the plates and stuff broken down, which can let you customize this and add things to it. Um, there’s other halo rifles. If you want to add a scope on here, go find one of the drm models or find a scope from another thing and add it on top. Um, so I’m also going to throw out the challenge again too. If you’re curious if you like Halo, and you like the rifle, should I do a set of halo armor? Leave a comment down below what you think. So let’s hop over to the time lapses and let’s get. This thing rolled out ill. See you guys on the other side of the timelapse. [MUSIC] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right, and that’s the final product. That is a very nice model. I’m going to say model maker Q did a fantastic job in creating this just down to the detail, the printability and just the amount of detail on the model itself. And then what you can add to it with customizations making this rifle your own. Who says it has to be Master Chief’s rifle? It can be your rifle. I mean, this was a standard unsc weapon. In the in that time, you saw the Marines running around with the same gun, and you know, it’s kind of one of those things I’ve got a lot of finishing to do. If you guys want to see the finishing of this. Leave me a comment down below. It may not be on this channel. I’m thinking about opening up a second channel. That is nothing but me finishing these models painting them, making them cleaning them up, sanding them getting them all done. It’s a thought in progress. Tell me what you think of that thought. Because I don’t really think it fits here. This is a 3d printing channel about making the print, Not finishing the prop. So let me know what you guys think about that. Down in the comments below and like, always hit that subscribe button. We will see you guys in the next episode.