3d Print Shift Knob | 3d Printed Custom Shift Knobs // Weekend Builds

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3d Printed Custom Shift Knobs // Weekend Builds

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Hey, I’m Alec. And on this weekend Build, we’re gonna make customizable shift knobs [Music] [Applause] for this project. I wanted to do some dual extrusion prints and specifically, I wanted to use nylon G, which comes in a couple different colors, which is going to make it great for doing. Some different detail works. However, it is very abrasive so for that. I’m going to use the pulsed exe, which is the model of pulse that has dual extrusion capabilities and both nozzles are Olsson Rubies, which are very abrasive resistant. So that I can print this nylon? G no problem along with that. I’m going to use the bc n3 Dr. 19 for some tough PLA printing, doing some different colors in each side of the idec’s system. And that way, I can have a good comparison between nice and smooth out parts and compare the texture that we can get from the nylon gfriends for a long time. Now I’ve wanted to make a really cool shift knob for my car, but up until now, all the cars. I’ve been driving are automatics and those utilise a trigger so that you can pull it and adjust the gears now. I know most manuals just have a shift knob that threads on to the shaft, and that’s it. It’s really easy for those cars to do it, but in my case up until now. I didn’t have that option. My latest car just uses that same threaded shaft as the manuals, even though it’s an automatic, so I’m actually able to go forward with this project, so there’s two different methods we’re gonna use. There’s one where you just print out the part with a slightly smaller diameter than the threaded shaft so that the threads on it will bite into the print and you can just thread it on there. You don’t need any additional hardware and you only really need one nozzle to print this out the second method you can either use two nozzles so you can use one with some jerry-rigging to get it to work, right, but with this one, we’ll have a lock nut in the center of two different parts so that it can really thread onto it nicely and have a nice fit and you can really make sure that it’s gonna hold well, and you’re not going to have any weird jiggling as you’re trying to shift your car, Let’s get to it, so I’m very well-versed in fusion 360 so I jumped in there and made the basis for the shift knob, using a couple different revolves and cuts to get the shape that I wanted and once I had that I could import this whole thing into matter control, and then I could use the image converter tool to take an image already had of just a flame, extrude that out and apply it to bounce, so I could come back to this and change the image and it would stay within the boundaries here, so I could always have an image that looked just right on this and didn’t over inflate and get it’s too far from the shift knob. Then I made a little cylinder that I could cut out where the post for the shift knob will actually thread into, and I made that a little undersized so that the threads on the actual metal post will bite into this and thread into the plastic. Then I could use the align tool again to line them up on the center of X&Y and the max of Z and then use the advanced function to raise up the Z by 0.1 just to make sure it completely cut it out. I think you use subtract subtract the fit to bounds. From this alignment, there we go if the perfect cut out there of some flames now. I can print it out in some tough PLA, so we’re ready for the heat of a hot car in California and there we go and because I made the cylinder a little undersized. It was really easy to thread this on, and it still held on really nicely, so I can shift between all the different gears in my car. Now that we’re finished up with method one, we can jump into method. Two, which has a couple variations, depending if you have a single extrusion or a dual extrusion printer. You have single extrusion. The steps are very similar to our previous video on how to do dual extrusion printing with one nozzle. And in that case, we’re gonna make the knob and then we’re going to subtract out the part that we need to be our design and then add a little clearance tolerance to it so that we can press the two parts together and print them in different colors now. If you have a dual extrusion printer, all you have to do is subtract out the design from the knob and then leave it. Because now you have a zero clearance fit, which is perfect for dual, extruding and with that one. We’re gonna use the pulse. Dxe and some nylon G. So again, we can compare the textures of that. And then we’ll also do a same print using some tough PLA on the BC N 3d Sigma R 19 So that we can sand that smooth that, and then give it a good clear coat that has a nice, glossy texture for the finished surface now for this one. I did the same as before where I modeled the base infusion through 60 but then I could use matted control to apply different embellishments on it. I used the image converter again to create the mater hacker’s logo and make a fit to bounds with just the right size. Then it can make sure that. I selected it as material too. And then I just color-coded i’t. Clarity’s sake made the matter. Hackers, local white and the rest of it blue and made sure that the main section was red meaning material one and the other part was orange meaning material, too. I use the align again centered on X&Y and the max of Z with a bleep One difference just to make sure it’s completely cut out, and then I can do is subtract and replace fit two bounds, and that way it’s going to subtract it and leave the item there instead of a cavity and now have it filled in and it’s marked as a different material. Then it could go to the BCAM 3DS Sigma and print it out, have all the right settings there just going to go ahead and set that up and then off to the printer now. I’m going to go ahead and remove the part and go ahead and start the bottom half, which since it’s not dual extrusion. I won’t need any sort of wipe tower or anything like that. Just let it go with that finished. I can go ahead and get to finishing and for this What I do is I use some 80 grit to really knock down the layer lines of both parts once. I was done with the 80 grits. I could follow that up with some 220 now. I’m gonna use 800 just to really give it a nice shine and help wear down any little small scratches that may be left over from the rougher sand papers or just clamp in here at the m8 nut that I have use some channel locks and it’ll press in really nicely And then I can just clear coat it now. I’ve already gone ahead and used some nuts and bolts to hold CO2 halves, but the clear coat here will really give it a shine and help protect this while it’s sitting in my partner, just like the previous shift knob, we can use the same method of taking the image converter, making sure that the second item is the right material, aligning it properly and doing a subtract and replace of that object. Give it a second to think, and there we go perfectly ready for 3d printing and on the DXE here, it’s gonna go ahead and do a wipe tower just to make sure that the colors don’t blend and it’ll alternate between each of the e3d print heads, one with nylon X and one with nylon G in red, so we have a dual color duty print. Then it’ll insert the m8 lock nut to the finished bottom half and then use some m3 screws to drive it through the front, so we have one finished shift knob. [MUSIC] There you go, you know exactly how to print the shift knob that lives in my car and thanks to the pulse. Dxe, it’s really easy to print dual abrasive materials like nylon X and nylon G. So I’m definitely going to go back with that and do some more experimenting with some different models and because of these mad at control image converter, it’s really easy for me to jump back in, change the logo or change the base, STL for a different one for a different form factor and I can really personalize these shift knobs for my friends and family, because maybe this logo doesn’t suit them, but they really like the form factor or anything back and forth, so I hope that this video is giving you an idea of how to use Matic control image converter for personalizing or just how to make your own shift knob. I’m Alec from matter hackers. Thanks for watching. Thanks for watching. If you like that, give us a thumbs up and be sure to subscribe to stay up-to-date with all the big builds how tos and troubleshooting guides. I’ll be working on and don’t forget, check out. Mater hackers comm to explore everything 3d printing and to join the community.