32 Bit 3d Printer Controller | Cheap 32-bit 3d Printer Controller!

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Cheap 32-bit 3d Printer Controller!

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I have been waiting a very long time for this day. We can now purchase affordable 32-bit controllers for our 3d printers. This one here, only twenty bucks, which is price parity with most 8-bit controllers, lets. Check it out opening the box. We have the 32-bit controller in an anesthetic bag. It also comes with quite a short USB cable and a pack of spare jumpers here. We have the big tree tech. SK, our version, 1.3 board. This will be a one-to-one replacement to my existing 8-bit controller, the good old Arduino mega 2 5 6 0 and the ramp’s 1.4 shield on the SKR Board. We have similar features to my existing board. Start off with, we have five step stick slots, an expansion for LCD and SD card six and stop inputs, three thermistor inputs USB 12 to 24 volt DC. Input A PWM controlled heat bed output, dual PWM control, hot end heater outputs and a PWM controlled cooling fan output That is actually one more PWM MOSFET output than the Ram’s board has there is also a micro. SD card slot supplied with a 128 megabyte micro. SD Card pre-installed with Marlin 2.0 firmware for 32-bit. Microcontrollers chip is an N XP semiconductor. LPC, 1768 It incorporates an arm cortex m3 processor, running at 100 megahertz 512 K of flash in a 100 pin L QFP package on digi-key. It retails from $11 70 per unit or at LCSC. It costs only $5 12 per unit and under $4 in Bak, The PWM mosfet for the heat bed is a windsock W SK, two to zero and zero for rated at up to forty volts 220 amps, current and a measly 2.5 million drain to source resistance that should translate to very little heat wasted within the MOSFET for powering our current hungry heat beds, The PWM MOSFETs for the hot ends and cooling fan are Windsock WSF 3 0 85 rated up to 30 volts, Eighty five amps, current and a 4.5 million drain to source resistance. No heat sinks were supplied with the MOSFETs but as their surface mount onto the PCB, they are heat sunk to the top and underneath the PCB. Besides, the expected 32 bit benefits of faster print speeds without slowdowns or stuttering when compared to 8-bit boards, The SK are version 1.3 as a few quality of life improvements, replaceable fuses on the input for 2.0 amp fuse for the heated bed and a 10 amp fuse for the three other. PWM Controller Outputs upgrade the firmware via the SD card. Simply drag and drop your firmware onto this as it appears as another drive when connected to your PC by the USB port, the usual jumpers to set the micro stepping for the step driver sticks plus jumpers for Tmc’s, Uart and SPI modes and sensorless homing. So you don’t need to run jumper wires all over the board to use those step driver’s victory Tech have done a decent job without instruction manual, although inch. English is available from their website building. A fresh copy of Marlin, 2.0 is a bit different than with the 8-bit. Bots as we won’t be using the Arduino ide download Marlin 2.0 bug fix from the Marlin website and Unzip it download Microsoft’s Visual Studio code and install it on your PC, Then under extensions search for platform IO and press install finally within platform IO press open project navigate to the Marlin, 2.0 unzipped folder and press open Marlin Bug-fix – 1 0 on the left hand tree select platform Iot and I change the variable. ENV underscore default to LPC 1768 On the left file tree select configuration. H set serial underscore port to 0 serial underscore Port – 2 – 1 Baud rate – 1115 200 set motherboard to board underscore big tree underscore. SKR underscore v13 the rest of the variables in configuration H can be copied from your existing marlin 11.9 configuration. H you can find a copy of my configuration dot. H File in the Hypercube Thingiverse page linked below. Once you’re finished making modifications to the config press, the tick symbol along the bottom left. This will build the firmware. It is saved in the Marlin folder under P IO E N vs Backslash LPC, 1768 and called firmware dot bin. When you connect your SK our board to your PC For the first time, windows will install the drivers for me. It found the drivers automatically, But if yours doesn’t check the big tree tech instruction manual to manually download the drivers in Windows. The Microsd card appears as another drive. You’ll see a single file in there called firmware Docker or current copy over your freshly built firmware dot bin file into this drive. No need to delete the existing file. Upon next reboot of the SK R Board, it will flash a copy of the new firmware onto itself, Alternatively, in the platform iodine. I file add variable upload. Underscore port equals your. Microsd drive letter. This will allow building copying of the firmware bin file in one step by pressing the arrow button. A couple of things. I’ll point out that will make your life a bit easier when configuring this board by default, the part calling fan is associated with this two pin jst xh connection here, unlike the screw terminal that I’ve been using on my Ram’s board. If you need to use the screw terminal for the cooling fan like me, then go to the pins folder. Open Pins underscore big tree underscore SK R version 1.3 H file search for fan and swap over the pin assignment between fan underscore pin and fan 1 underscore pin. I use an induction sensor for better homing, but it didn’t work on this board. The reason Big Tree Tech have decided to install 10k ohm pull-up resistors on all the. N Stop inputs. This means the pull-up and pulldown options in configuration. H do nothing I had to physically remove. The Resistor marked r11 from the board before my induction sensor would trigger correctly big tree tech. If you’re watching this, please omit these pull-up resistors or at the very least, had another jumper to the Z Min and stop to make installation of induction sensors much easier for mounting this board onto 20:20 aluminum extrusion of design, a 3d printable mount for this with cable management for excess cable length. You will need 3 m3 by 10 screws and 3 m3 hex nuts to attach the board to the mount and 3m 5 by 10 millimeter screws and 3m 5 hammer nuts to attach the mount to the Twenty20 aluminium extrusion. As always. My designs are available for free on Thingiverse links below this board uses Jst XH sockets for all the external connections, while a surround board had Panetta’s that’s fine, you can connect existing Dupont style connectors into the jst xh sockets as they both share the same 2.5 millimeter pin pitch. Of course you can wreak rip all of your cables to the JST Xh plug with kits available online for the Stepper motor drivers. I’ll be reusing the same step sticks from my previous transport for the X&Y Motors, I’ll be using TMC 2100 step drivers set to 16 micro steps on the jumpers and for the Z Axis and the extruder. I’ll be using the four nine. Eight eight step drivers also set to 16 micro steps or the jumpers. The jumpers underneath are the same as the ramp’s board and here it is installed and wired up to my hyper cube 3d printer just need to install the 12 volt power. Now, before you start printing, you have to check if everything is wired up correctly. Starting with the N stops in pronterface send command m11 9 all and stops should show open, then press and hold the X N stop. Send command m1 run 9 again. It should say triggered same with the Y and stop and ZN stop if you need to invert the output. Do so in configuration. H next, we’ll check the motor directions. We’ll start by centering the X carriage, lower the bed and send command G 90 1 and M 2 1 1 S 0 to check the X motor send command G 1 X 10 Y 10 The X carriage should move diagonally back if it moves forward, rotate the motor connector or invert the motor direction in configuration. H to check the Y motor send command G 1 X – 10 Y 10 The X carriage should move diagonally back. It moves forward, rotate the motor connector or invert the motor direction in configuration. H to check the Z Motor send command g1 z10 The bed should move down if it moves up, rotate the motor connector or invert the motor direction in configuration. H next, we’ll check the cooling fan, send command m106 to turn it on and m107 to turn it off. Ensure both hot end and bed temperatures are shown on the screen or in printer face, then set the hot in to 200 degrees C and bed to 80 degrees C while we’ll have the heat bed turned on to 80 degrees Celsius. I’ll just put my finger on the heat bed, pwm MOSFET. And it is only just a bit warmer than room temperature. Yes, so no heat sink required on that mosfet, which is a far cry from the mosfet on the rant’s board, which used to overheat very quickly. [MUSIC] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] and here is the gecko printed at 60 millimeters per second over USB and straightaway. I noticed the motors sounded much smoother as it was printing this particular piece and while it was printing. I didn’t notice any slowdowns or stuttering of the printhead. I am really happy with this. It wasn’t all rosy, though. I did encounter a layer shift and you can clearly see it. Approximately a third of the way out printing is gecko. There could be because the X or Y driver overheated or not enough current was delivered to the motors at this print speed either way. I may have to add a cooling fan to my step drivers to rectify this. I’m so glad these affordable 32-bit controllers are now becoming available. There really is no reason not to use 32 boards at these prices. I’ll be following this video up with a 32-bit print speed test and comparing the 8-bit board to the new 32-bit bought subscribe to be notified when that video goes live. Thanks for watching. Hopefully you enjoyed this video if you did give it a thumbs up. Leave your comments, don’t catch you next time.